So I have the weekend to kick around with my dead LR2 until I should hear back from GAP about what could have happened clearing Adaptions. This is what happened:

1. I cleaned my MAF sensor with MAF cleaner,
2. cleared the lean codes and adaptations/adaptions,
3. found the 2012 LR2 would not start,
4. replaced the MAF sensor (on the off chance I had damaged it),
5. still will not start,
6. initialized the steering wheel lock,
7. still will not start,
8. did not initialize the starter motor because that sounds a bit dangerous,
9. I tried to clear adaptions again, and the GAP tool BT fails with the message "Operation failed E 5"
10. Looked through GAP manual but couldnt find anything about "E 5"
11. sent email to GAP asking what could have gone wrong clearing adaptions with the IID tool,
12. I tried the sequence of not touching the brake pedal, putting the car in neutral and trying to start it, no success.

In a nutshell, it seems like the car is not detecting my foot on the brake.
When the car is locked, the little red light on the bottom of the dash blinks three times fast, waits, then blinks three times fast again, and this sequence keeps repeating.
When I put the fob in the ignition, red light stops blinking.
The system comes on normally without my foot on the brake pedal and I can scan it with the GAP BT tool.
When I try to start with my foot on the brake, the system comes on as if my foot is not on the brake (does not seem to try to start the motor or there is a slight hesitation in the beginning for a millisecond when it seems like it might try to start the engine then goes back to just starting the system without the engine).
The steering wheel doesnt seem to lock. I can't say I ever tried the steering wheel lock before, but the steering wheel is damn hard to move anyway since the engine is off without power, but I don't seem to hit any "hard" stops that I have noticed on other cars with steering locks. No change after I initialized the steering wheel lock with the GAP tool, although the tool said it was successful initing the steering wheel lock.
I am thinking I may need to initialize the starter motor, but I will wait to hear back from GAP about that.
The CEL is on, but that is likely a hangover of the lean codes I cleared before. I try to scan it again for fault codes and I am just getting minor codes (one about a corner light one about the MOST audio system) that were there before, the lean codes are not showing up in the new scans, but they take a while to come back anyway. I updated the firmware in the GAP BT reader a few weeks ago.

I was not expecting anything like this from clearing adaptions. I did have a little trouble starting it once after a long drive a few days ago, but then it started fine for the rest of the day. I did not try to start it today before cleaning the MAF. Maybe something had failed prior to my MAF cleaning debacle. But it does not even try to start, I am used to cars cranking over it he starter motor is deceased. I assume it would throw a code if the starter motor is dead, even if it won't try to start because it knows the starter motor is dead.

I have run out of ideas.

 

Just going to ask the obvious but can you confirm that the transmission is in "P"?

Also, I would go through every module with the GAPII and clear every code or do a system wide code clear and try again. Does the steering unlock when you insert the key? Do you have a BCM no communication code?

 

Thanks for the reply.

Yes. It is in park, I even tried to start it in neutral, no change. I had some hope for a bit today. I was reading in the GAP manual (thinking I might have to reflash something) and it said that on L359 (LR2) up to 2012 I have to do a hard reset by taking both leads off the battery for 10 minutes, touch them before putting them back on the battery. I did that, got back in the car, locked the doors and I immediately noticed that the little red light on the lower left of the dashboard was not giving me the three fast blinks anymore, it was blinking steadily like before. That gave me some hope. I sat there for 5 minutes and I think all the electrics went down, I put the fob in the ignition, put my foot on the brake and pushed the start button -- same thing, nothing other than the system and AC coming on like I didn't have my foot on the brake. After getting out and locking up again, the little red light is back to 3 quick blinks and pausing before 3 quick blinks. Somehow in the process I accidentally set the horn beeping alarm off, didn't even know it had an alarm.

I have cleared the faults many times. A bunch of faults came up when I moved the relay from the engine temperature to the starter motor and didn't replace the engine temperature relay, but I cleared those.

I just left it with both leads of the battery disconnected. I think that, after another hard reset, I should try resetting adaptions again, maybe that error code E5 will be gone. That is the mystery I want GAP to explain, okay, so the car won't start after resetting adaptions - but why can't I reset adaptions again? Why that failure E 5 code?

Here are the faults that come up (I think these have been coming for a while but they don't trigger the CEL so I have never really worried about them):

VIN SALFR2BN5CH285961
Model L359 - Freelander 2 / LR2 2012
Vehicle scanned on Apr 3, 2021 12:35:49
IIDControl 2.9.9.9 Build 74 Android - IIDTool BT V4.0 B2742

ACM-Audio System

U3000-87 (6C) Control module - Bus signal/message failure - missing a message

BPM-Bluetooth

U3000-87 (6C) Control module - Bus signal/message failure - missing a message

ICM-Infotainment

U3000-87 (6C) Control module - Bus signal/message failure - missing a message
( on 03-04-2021 12:33:20 at 97048 km )

 

You may likely need the power of JLR SDD and a programming cable but let's see what the GAP techs suggest. BTW, does the steering lock disengage when the key is inserted? Can you turn the wheel with the key and ignition on?

Looks like you triggered or corrupted your immobilizer somehow; need to be able to clear or reset this.

 

If the car accepts the fob, unlocks the steering wheel and the electrics will start but not the car, I would look at the brake pedal switch.

 

I think the steering wheel is locked both before and after I insert the key fob -- there is no noticeable change in the steering wheel after insertion of the fob -- but never hits a hard stop like I am used to in other cars.
The steering is pretty much impossible to turn (before and after I insert the key fob). The front wheels move a few millimetres and that is all the force I wish to put into it or I think I will break something.
I would think if the front wheels were unlocked I could move them more than that, even without power to the steering.
I have tried a couple of times initializing the steering wheel lock with the GAPIID BT tool and it says "successful" each time and there is no change in the steering wheel.
I am tempted to try initializing the starter motor..... but I want to wait to hear back from GAP to do that.
Has anybody ever initialized the starter motor? Seems like a strange thing to do, you just replace the old starter motor with another one and go, right? Why would the starter motor need initializing?

 

I don't think so. I think the steering wheel is staying locked. See my post above.

 

This is likely the reason why the car won't start IMO. Now you will have to figure out why this is occurring........my guess is the car is now in immobilizer mode, hence the steering will not release, etc..

My 2 cents, just wait for the GAPtoolII boyz and galz to get back to you or put in a call to them to speed up the process. With a fully charged battery, I'd try reinitializing the steering lock again. What are you using to keep the battery at proper voltage when you are using the GAP?

 

It's one thing for the steering wheel to be moved, quite another for the lock to be engaged. The difference is quite obvious. A mechanical stop.

 

I haven't been using any kind of power supply on my battery when using GAP Tool.

I have just been scanning and clearing codes. Then I cleared adaptions which didn't take very long (which was when everything went bad).

I never thought I would need a power supply hooked up to the battery unless I was doing something that would take a long time.

I have an Schumacher INC-700a charger with a programming mode I can hook up to the battery if I need it (like in case I have to flash an ecu).

I did charge the battery before I tried to initialize the steering wheel lock a second time, and again the GAP tool said the steering wheel lock initialization was successful.