@LR2driver how often do you plan on changing your oil, at what frequency? In addition, what is you main reason for a filter with a higher than OEM filtration requirement?
Reason why I ask, I use Amsoil XL or Signature (these oils are good for 12-25,000 miles) oil..........since I choose to change my oil at around 10-13,000 kms regardless, I simply use the Mann oil filter. Now, I get why lower price for "better" filtration is attractive but why "tempt" lower oil pressure?

EDIT: My personal opinion..............the Fram will not cause you oil pressure issues but this is just my opinion

 

I also tried it today with my Garmin Mechanic app and sure enough it's not there. Tomorrow I will try it with a more advanced reader that can query more systems specific to Land Rovers and Jaguars.

 

Of course, if you follow some of the other online auto forums (e.g., BITOG), you know that oil topics are at the top of the controversy agenda right behind politics and religion. So here we go, Marquess of Queensberry rules seem appropriate for a British car.

I drive approx 1000 miles per month with a 70/30 mix of city/highway. I’m planning to change my oil every 4 months and change my (new high filtration) oil filter every 2 months. So the filter will be changed halfway between the oil change interval as well as during the oil change. I’m using Castrol GTX High Mileage Blend 5W-30 oil. As I mentioned previously, I'm willing to do this more frequently because it's easier with the vacuum extractor.

Before I answer your question on the OEM oil filter, let me outline a handful of reasons I would deviate from OEM:

1) Upgrade/improvement: For example, replacing the Xenon headlights with LED. Another example is when I replaced my OEM coolant overflow hose connector with an ordinary hose clamp because it seals better and does not leak like the more complex OEM part (I posted this project on this forum some time back with photos).

2) Adapt to change in the external environment: For example, switching to a different grade oil like 0W-30 if I lived in a very cold climate and my car started better with thinner oil. I also tinted my sunroof to spare me from the bright California sun (a problem they probably don’t have in the foggy UK).

3) Adapt to change in the internal environment: In this case, internal refers to the vehicle itself. I am a regular listener to several automotive podcasts and the consensus from the hosts is that OEM specs do not necessarily apply after a vehicle becomes “high mileage”. The auto engineers defined the OEM specs for a brand new vehicle throughout the warranty period, which is about the first third of its lifetime and when the auto manufacturer is responsible for repairs. You can abuse a new car and the long term effects won’t often become evident until the car is out of warranty. The cumulative effect of longer oil change intervals, longer coolant change intervals, longer tranny fluid changes, and even turbo/GDI pressures will typically be noticed at higher mileage or time when the auto manufacturer is off the hook and they want you to buy a new car.

Regarding the oil filter … based on what I’ve learned, finer oil filtration (99% @ 20 microns) results in longer engine life than filtration of larger 40 micron particles. You may need to change your filter more frequently, but the benefit is cleaner and better lubrication without damaging the engine by circulating the dirt particles that the filter doesn’t catch. I am the original owner of my 2008 LR2 and I noticed that the oil barely changed its light honey color during the first few years, which means there wasn’t much dirt for a filter to catch anyway in a newish engine. However, after ~80K miles it started turning darker faster, which is what you’d expect from an aging engine. Now it becomes more important to have better filtration, something the auto engineers had no concern about during the early years. It’s effectively a different car now than it was then. If the engineers were to spec it now at 160K miles, their specs might be different. The long-life full synthetic oil is great stuff, but it’s strength is in the durability of the additive package. If there is dirt getting past the filter, it circulates in this fancy oil just the same as the old dino oil. In fact, if the detergents in the synthetic oil are stronger, there may be even more dirt particles swimming around your engine for the extended change interval, a bad thing. So I don’t take OEM specs as gospel for my higher mileage vehicle. I’m going to try the higher filtration filter and see how it goes. These high efficiency filters are quite popular (based on the forums) and I have not seen reports of low oil pressure. The newer synthetic material in these filters is supposed to be more efficient at capturing smaller particles than the former paper/cellulose filters, while not restricting flow. There will always be special applications (e.g., race cars) that favor higher flow over filtration, but that doesn't apply to my daily driver.

Interesting topic, thanks for asking!

 

Have you actually done this to your car? If you have not, don't. Not worth it. If you did, you know you had to rip out and replace a lot of the existing hardware to be able to use LED bulbs because you can't just plug them in.

I would have to see an analysis of what sticks to a magnetic drain plug to believe that. There are companies that do that for aircraft recip engines and I am sure they wouldn't mind the extra business. You're talking about a pretty risky tradeoff. The risk to the engine of 20 microns of particles is much lower than the risk of insufficient oil pressure.

 

> I haven't done an LED conversion (I like my lights as they are), but a lot of people do and I recall you posted a DIY project. It's become a very large aftermarket business. One of the recommended brands is BOSLLA for anyone who is interested in researching this.

> I am doubtful that lower oil pressure will be a problem with the higher efficiency filter. Technically, they could make a filter that was even more ultra fine. I believe they picked the sweet spot where they could filter the most particles while balancing flow. They've been selling these for many years, I am the latecomer to this party. But if I'm wrong and I get a P0522 code (low oil pressure), I'll just switch back to the original filter..

 

Let us know if you find it. I will be miffed that my all-in-one Autel did not!

So many modules on this vehicle for every nit little thing, but no oil pressure. Good grief!

 

The existing electrics for the Xenon lights are very high voltage units that will spectacularly blow up an LED bulb if anyone tried to jury-rig it. To use LED's you need to take out all of that and replace with LED specific hardware. Not a job for the faint of heart, and totally unnecessary, as I found out. I returned what I ordered for the headlights to Amazon and ordered high end traditional bulbs.

Let's hope the engine doesn't give up the ghost before you get such an error code. The way the 3.2l engine calculates oil pressure is =really= funky, IMO.

 

That is exactly what crossed my mind when I saw that the gas engine doesn't have one, but the diesel does.

 

HID Xenons that I use; they are great and cheap.....2+ years now:
CAR ROVER D1S/D1C 6000K 35W Xenon HID Headlight Replacement Bulb
Search Amazon

 

Amsoil is the leader on synthetic oil. They follow the European definition of 100% pure synthetic while USA "full" synthetic is not really 100%. Do you buy from a local Amsoil dealer (they only sell through independents) or order from their website?

They also make oil filters for some vehicles. To get their opinion on filtration, google "amsoil oil filter micron rating".

Here is a summary of an SAE study:
https://www.filtermagindustrial.com/...FilterMag2.pdf