This just recently started. My 2010 lr2 usually starts fine and not problems. I drove to town the other day and went to start it and it idled funny and died. tried again didn't start. took the key out put it back in and it started and ran perfectly.

since then it starts sometimes and runs amazing. sometime it starts idles like crap and dies, sometime no start at all. (all within a few minutes of trying it.). something is definitely up and its new.

any ideas where to start here?

 

You should really get a scantool and check for DTC codes.

Any basic scanner will work, or you can one with a vehicle-specific database which will provide vastly more info about the vehicle (Autel AP-200 is popular).

If I were going to just try random parts I'd clean the MAF first, then replace the fuel pressure sender, both are cheap and easy to do with hand tools. Those are common trouble spots. The fuel pressure sender seems to fail in an intermittent manner, which is what you're experiencing. The senders also seem guaranteed to fail eventually anyway so I wouldn't even feel bad about replacing it if it doesn't solve the problem since it will probably save you trouble later.

 

Steve,

Are you hot soaking with the key docked?

My LR2 will have problems like you describe if I were to
- shut off the engine but leave the key docked
- then restart the engine

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic29...ht=hot+soaking


We need more information.

1. has the rough idle ever happened on the first cold start?

2. do you ever Hot Soak with the key docked?

3. if you shout down the engine an get a rough idle on restart is it a short time later or is it hours later?

Take care

Paul

PS The purge valve or the fuel pressure sending unit can also cause problem like you are having but let's get more info about the failure mode before we start loading the part cannon.

 

My 2008 did this regularly until I replaced the purge valve near the throttle body. Never again. Personally, I think this "hot soaking" thing is a myth, kinda like that other myth about the fuel system injection return line, which does not exist.

 

Not a Myth but it was supposedly fixed by a software update so your LR2 may not be affected.

Mine was built on 15 May 2007 https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic32610-30.html so if yours is newer then you may have the updated software

The recall from Volvo was 01 September 2009 so it is likely that they fixed the problem in manufacturing before that date but when????

My 2008 will do it but my 2010 S80 won't (although if you try to force it in the S80 the fuel pressure will drop and then the ECU over compensates, its not dangerous but if you watch it carefully you can see it happen, its like a small throttle blip to prevent an engine from stalling)

Here is the Recall from Volvo

If you don't like HOT SOAK then we can use Volvo's RESIDUAL PRESSURE IN THE FUEL SYSTEM if you prefer but for my LR2 the Residual Pressure is only enough to run the engine if the CAT is hot and it is keeping the fuel line hot. (i.e. Summer Time when the living's easy.......)

Check the pressure on your LR2 when you turn off the Engine and you will see the pressure rise slightly.

https://www.nhtsa.gov/vehicle/2008/V...52FAWD#recalls

 

Like I said, it used to happen to me, but the replacement of the purge valve fixed it for good. It's not the key in the socket, it's a fuel system issue.

When you turn off the engine the pressure would rise a bit, that is normal, because the pump does not turn off instantaneously and since it is not a return fuel injection system like my BMW bike or the turbine on the little jet I used to own, it has nowhere to go (injectors are off) and pressure will rise momentarily. If the purge valve is not working correctly the differential in pressure may cause a momentary loss of fuel pressure and hence the hesitation or outright engine stall that resolves itself when you restart.

The service manual confirms all the problems that can happen when the purge valve is malfunctioning. Almost all the symptoms in the "Fuel Charging and Controls - I6 3.2L Petrol - Fuel Charging and Controls" section have the purge valve as a possible culprit.

In addition, the service manual does not define "hot soak" as being related to the key. "Difficult to start after hot soak (vehicle standing, engine off, after engine has reached operating temperature)" Think about it. Engine is at normal operating temperature. Purge valve is not working right. Heat will cause rise in pressure of fuel in the system around the engine compartment and the purge valve is not releasing it. You turn on the vehicle, fuel pump runs but since purge valve is not working right you get a differential in pressure for which the ECU cannot compensate fast enough, which makes the fuel feed hesitate, with the observed results in the engine hesitating or stalling. IMO this is why replacing the purge valve fixed it. I should also mention I had the evap canister replaced as well and it did not help.