Sorry, but completely untrue. I have a Hidden Hitch towbar and aftermarket electrics ($60 from an autoparts store near my house) and my setup works like a charm. Fits great, no programming required. Anyone who would give a stealership $1,000 or more to cut an ugly hole in their bumper and install an outrageously-priced $350 wiring harness has to have their head examined, in my opinion.

I've used my Hidden Hitch to tow a boat trailer (a 19-foot-boat with a full 42 gal fuel tank, presumably heavier than the OP's motorcycle) as well as a cart I use to transport items to the recycling center.

As for handling, I'd say it handled very competently. No issues. The transmission responds pretty much the same way any other vehicle's would - a little rougher but nothing to be concerned about. Gas mileage takes a bit of a hit. There isn't a lot of swing, and I've towed my boat up the highway at about 55-60mph.

I have a "no-frills" mount I bought at a local marine trailer store. I'm using a 2-inch drop, since the 4-inch would take it a little too close to the ground for comfort. The 2-inch drop definitely keeps it high enough, and I've never had any issues, even with a relatively steep driveway lip at my house.

 

For the record, I'm using this hitch:

Trailer Hitch for 2008 Land Rover LR2 - Hidden Hitch 87575

and this wiring harness:

CURT Manufacturing | CURT Manufacturing - CURT Taillight Converter #56146

There was zero programming required for the lights to work. They just worked. Parking sensors might beep if you go in reverse, but to save more than a thousands bucks, I can deal with a beep for the 30 seconds I back up.

 

Hello,


I want to add a trailer hitch to my 2008 lr2 se and went to my dealership and was told the factory wiring was $485.00 to buy the kit and to install this they have to remove the rear bumper and all of the back interior trim and could not give me a quote. He said the hourly labour rate is $150.00 per hour and it will take whatever it takes. Can anyone tell me if this can be done at home. I searched the net trying to find these instructions but could not find them. Can anyone help if you've dome this. I read through this thread prior to going and will go with Hidden Hitch and it sounds like this is the best aftermarket one and want the factory wiring as well. thanks

 

From my understanding, from speaking with a Land Rover dealer, and actually seeing an LR2 with the OEM installed hitch. I don't think they remove the bumper, but they definitely cut into it to attach the hitch. And the one that I saw with the hitch installed didn't look too good. And the cutting job they did, was not even very clean. (a little uneven, and it looked like they removed more of the bumper than necessary) Of course this may vary from dealer to dealer. But for the price, and the permanent damage to the vehicle, I would NOT recommend the OEM hitch. I am definitely going with the Hidden Hitch instead.

 

I used the hidden hitch, bolted right up in ten minutes with no cutting of anything. In retrospect the only downside to the HH is that the max tongue weight is 400 lbs, while you can go up to 500-ish with the oem unit if the vehicle is loaded right. This is not a problem for typical cat-II loads, but I'm towing a braked camper that's at the very upper limit so I have it to load it carefully to stay within limits. But even at max tow weight and tongue weight, the LR2 handles the tow flawlessly (I keep it below 65 mph though).

I bought an OEM trailer light harness from an aftermarket supplier and installed it myself. You have to unclip some interior panels and plug in a couple connectors in the rear of the vehicle but it only required hand tools, not hard at all. The harness came with instructions, you do need those...can't recall if that was part of the oem packaging or was added by the vendor.

Easy DIY so far.


But since my trailer is braked, I then paid a towing installer to add a brake controller and hook it into the OEM harness that I had installed. A generic unit will NOT be easy to install like on a chevy, there is some special wiring that has to be done on a Rover. This shop had a guy who had done them before, and I had to wait until he was available, they wouldn't let anyone else touch it. Another option would be skip the OEM harness and just go staright to aftermarket (pro-install though). I was afraid there might be ramifications if the truck didn't know it was towing anything so I started with the OEM harness.

But if your load is cat-I or II unbraked the OEM harness is all you need anyway.

 

When I've towed the camper in the past I increased the truck's tire pressure according to the owner's manual. But now for the life of me I can't find where in the manual the max pressure for towing is listed...the towing section refers you to page 205, but there's nothing there?

Anybody know where it's listed, or recall the correct pressure?

Thanks!

 

I'm just getting around now to adding the wiring harness (OEM VPLFT0003) to my 2011 LR2. This forum has provided a great amount of information - that I need to take my LR2 to the dealership to enable the trailer module. However, I had a question on one of the steps in the installation - and was wondering what others have done.

I don't understand which plug is being referred to in step 18/19 (note: even though it states 2009 - I've had to follow all the other 2009 steps because the other mounting bracket didn't fit in my 2011). Are these steps stating that the green trailer plug is not needed to be plugged into the module? When I plug it in, the trailer test plug has LEDs that are constantly blinking (not programmed by the dealer yet, and I understand that there is a function to check if a light bulb has burnt out). If I unplug the green cable, I get nothing with the test plug.

I appreciate any advice as I only wanted to bring the car to the dealer once to get programmed!

 

I have used my LR2 to pull dirt bikes, fourwheelers, golf carts and lawn mowers, and have had no problems. I have driven on the interstate with about 2000lbs and no problems. It pulls better than one would think.

 

Yes, I've pulled the full rated 3500#, and it performs flawlessly. Handling is rock-solid, way better than the full-size trucks we used to use with this trailer.

 

Hi guys,

I just a got a 2013 LR2 and hoping to set it up to tow a small uhaul trailer.

This post is very helpful. I am completely clueless about cars and I am thinking if the items listed below are the right ones and all I need. I am hoping to bring the items to a mechanic to install it.

Anyone happens to be in Raleigh NC area and could recommend a place for installation?

Thanks!

1. Hidden Hitch Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class III - 2" 87575
2. Upgraded Circuit Protected Modulite with 4 Pole Harness and Hardwire Kit - Includes Testers 119179KIT
3. Ball Mount 3/4" Rise or 2" Drop, 7,500 lbs
4. Pin and Clip: PC3