So my LR3 has the 50 mph steering wheel shimmy. I have heard and read lots possible causes, but have yet to read that someone actually fixed it. We all get busy and excited after we resolve an issue and may not go back to the post to update with the findings. Sorry, that's not what I'm doing now.
So far, 135K miles. Balanced and rotated the tires, shook everything I could grab onto, and haven't found anything yet. The next step from a guy at Rover parts is to look into the U joints. OK. I usually start things buy looking up parts and maybe get a Youtube video on the subject. Here's my question... I can't find any information on U-Joints. I'm guessing they are CV joints. Anybody have a decent exploded view with these in them? does this seem like a good path to follow? Is it the fronts, upper and lower and then there is the axle pieces. ??

 

So somebody who's familier with Rovers told you to look at U-Joints on your LR3....?

er....


You're right, there aren't any U-joints. Just CVs. Each corner has an inner and outer CV plus the driveshaft has a front and a center CV. (hey wait, come to think of it I seem to remember the rear drivershaft connection is a U-joint, so there is ONE you could look at. LOL)

I'm hesitant to suspect your problem is a CV though. I'd sooner suspect worn front suspension or steering parts. I know you said you shook everything you could but it's not uncommon that something is loaded up when sitting but still moves around a bit underway. For example, I had an inner tie rod that had backed off about a quarter turn from the steering rack and was causing a vibration. You couldn't see it and it was hard to tell until I started taking things apart.

Another thing worth taking a quick look at is the center driveshaft support bearing. They are known to tear and let the driveshaft move around. Your problem description doesn't make me think this specifically, but it's easy to check, just grab the center of the driveshaft and see if it moves.

 

Is it possible that you are missing one or both of the little "danglers" in the rear just FWD of the bumper? I believe they are ballasts to help dampen vibrations...

 

Im not what the "danglers" are, but I will look for them. I also want to check the tie rod ends. Can you tell if they're bad by a static test?

 

The steering column input shaft has a U-joint so technically that isn't true.

 

Just go look behind your bumper (like put your head near the spare tire and look back behind your bumper) and you should see two big a$$ chunks of metal like mini anvils dangling on either side. If you see one or none, then that could be your problem.

 

So if one of the "danglers" is missing you could just add some of those lovely metal bull ********* to your hitch to get everything back in balance.

 

I thought those classy bull testes only fit on H2s....???

 

Silly answer but did you check your lug nuts? I've had them get loose and even fall off after visiting the tire morons. First thing I do when I pick it up is check the lug nuts with a torque wrench.

 

So I do have an update for this post. Yet not a solution. So last month I jacked the front end up and found at least a 1/8" of side to side (9-3 o'clock) play in the wheels. Nothing up and down, (12-6 o'clock). So I think I have it figured out. The tie rods and or steering mechanism has to be the culprit. We changed the whole system. inner and outer tie rods for both sides and also changed the steering gear box due to the leaky seals at each end. The boots were full of oil when I removed the tie rods. Had it aligned and asked the alignment shop about the shake at speed. He said he didn't feel it. Great. Not. Drove it home and it the shake is still there. It is "tighter" but you can still feel it. So I think next will have to be the lower control arms/ball joints. It's about $1,400 for the shop to do these and alignment. Let you know how that goes.