Hello LR family,

Couldn't help myself and bought another LR3 after selling/missing mine (sickness? lol)

Picked up a 2008 LR3 HSE with 103k miles from auction...arrived DEAD with no history and I cannot get her to turn over (think she hates me...typical rover lol)!
With key inserted and turn to on position (can hear relays clicking in fuse panel in footwell), hazards flash and
Center display reads:
1) HDC FAULT SYSTEM UNAVAILABLE
2) PARKING BR. FAULT
3) PARKING BR. FAULT AUTO RELEASE NOT FUNCTIONAL
4) Large E illuminated.

Read codes using my 4D can software tool, think everything you can think of has been triggered.

So far I have:
Replaced brake switch
swapped TCCM (replacement tccm contacts looked worse than original till I cleaned them)
Battery is fully charged (also had it load tested, was ok)
Checked contacts on most large connectors under hood, no corrosion found on contacts.
Closely inspected wiring bundle on passenger side footwell, really wanted to find water damage....nothing.
Cut red wire splice (2 into 1) crimp was perfect, no corrosion and adhesive on heat shrink perfectly sealed.
Cut another splice...just to make sure. Looked perfect inside.
Didnt bother with the other 2 splices in the bundle since the first 2 showed no signs of corrosion.
Moved the relays in the fuse panel under hood
Tested relays out of vehicle, engaged with voltage source, contacts closed and read via ohm meter.
Performed hard reset.
Pulled instrument cluster, unplugged connector in back. contacts and fitment were perfect.
Only have one key. It remotely can lock/unlock vehicle.

Readings from Diagnostics socket:

Pin 6 to 14: 53.9 ohms
Pin 3 to 11: 55.8 ohms
Pin 6 to gnd: 2.618k ohms
Pin 14 to gnd: 2.617k ohms

gnd to pin 3: 2.56V
gnd to pin 6: 2.54V
gnd to pin 11: 2.23V
gnd to pin 14: 2.22V

Think that covers what has been done, might have forgot something.

Feel a module is dead on the HS CAN bus.
Not sure how to narrow it down...don't want to frivolously swap modules out.

Any additional suggestions? Please :-)
Have I missed something obvious?
She is starting to try my patience.

Thanks!

 

This happened to me when I replaced my passenger side sunroof drain end and did not have the JCB connections in place properly. While there may be no water damage, someone may have messed with the JCB and not hooked it back together correctly. Those rear connections are hell to get right.

 

Clarification:
CJB (Central Junction Box) not JCB

Thanks DakotaTraveler!

 

Pulled the CJB this evening and vigorously inspected all connections and wires.
No corrosion or oxidation.
No severed wires.
All in superb condition.
Found fog lamp fuse was blown.
Re-installed CJB
Vehicle still wont start. fun fun

 

Have you checked out every single fuse, both under hood and at the CJB?

 

Pulled and checked every fuse at the CJB tonight while it was out and on my bench.
Will check every fuse under hood tomorrow.

Did find the making of a nest on the top of the cabin filter.
No signs of penetration into the vehicle though.
Really wanted to find some wires chewed up.
that would be to easy

 

Checking also includes looking for missing. Since you got this thing auction it could have been a repo and the previous owner may have done something to disable it. Just a thought. Its annoying because one little thing on these vehicle can cause a lot of pain.

 

Thanks for the suggestion Dakatatravler
Well had hopes it could be so simple as a missing fuse, but all were there.
Did find a 15A blown, unfortunately only for the fog lamps.

Suggestions?

Anyone....please :-)

 

Clicking relays, fault codes and no starter turning over is a voltage problem. Did you try jump starting with a new or freshly charged battery?

Specifically the ground cable behind the battery and the big fuse in the front and the one going to the starter.

 

Okay, here's a tip that may help you troubleshooting. The starter relay is the relay in the under hood fuse box that is closest to the front of the vehicle. Wiggle, pull, tug, and yank to get that relay out of the socket. Underneath it you can access the socket, jumper from terminal 30 to terminal 87 (Bosch Relay numbering scheme) to jumper across the relay. Use a short 12 gauge wire to make a jumper for this task (if you look at my photo, you'll see the one I use, laying in the socket next to the starter relay). By jumpering this, you are cutting all the electronics out of the circuit and directly engaging the starter solenoid and the starter. If you hear clicking, but no cranking, I'd suspect either burned contacts on the solenoid, or bad starter. If you get nothing at all, then I'd suspect either bad/poor wiring/connections to the starter or the solenoid is completely non-functioning.

My photo here depicts with the curved blue line where you would jumper for this test. There is a red wire there on the right side of the photo that you won't have in your setup. That's where I'm monitoring my voltage with a little meter as I'm having issues as well.

As a note, I've had times where the ECM determined there wasn't enough voltage to start and it refused to activate this start relay. To trick it, I've turned on the ignition, then used this little jumper to bypass the logic. Although the engine was cranking slowly, I've managed to start the engine this way when I was stuck with no way to jump it. Take a look at my photo, it should explain what I'm trying to say here. Hope this is helpful to you!