Ah the old "free multipoint inspection" trick eh ?

Those numbers aren't something I would pay. The brakes (were they doing disks and pads and shoes on the rear too?) and tires I am sure can be bettered. I order my tires from tire rack.com and have them shipped for fitting. The brakes aren't that hard for DIY or find a good indie shop.

Did they tell you that a rubber chicken also had to be sacrificed when changing the battery - never heard of anything needing reprogramming. A hard reset sometimes (just join the battery cables together - minus battery of course - for a minute or two to reset any stored values).

And if they don't know what a front differential breather valve is, then run away. You can buy that one at the parts counter and fit it in five minutes with a stanley knife being about the only tool you need.

Seriously, unless the vehicle is still in warranty, ask around for a good independent shop. Your wallet will thank you.

 

I agree with you. This was a one time thing taking it to the dealer. I was not impressed with their service or knowledge. They were supposed to "check" on what a breather valve was and if my LR3 needed them. They apparently forgot to check or call me back. The reprogramming comment on the battery really bothered me but I just didnt have the time to deal with it at that moment. I will know better next time.

I am moving in the next 20 days and there is an independent shop not to far from my new place. Where I am now I have no option other than the local dealership.

I found good tires at Costco for 20 bucks more than Tire Rack and a respected brake shop to do brakes for $950. This is for front and rear pads and rotors.

Thanks to this forum I can change the diff fluids and look for myself if I need the breather valve.

 

Run from that dealer as fast as you can. They are scamming you on the window programming etc. These rigs like their voltage high and as such their batteries fresh. There are very few batteries that are applicable for your LR3.

Pop the cover off of your battery cover in the engine bay. Note the battery they put in there and check to see if it is properly spec'd. If you do not have the proper battery you will be asking for issues later.

For a battery the best replacement is the Interstate MTP-49/H8 Mega Tron Plus.

Brakes as quoted are expensive. Perhaps for OEM Land Rover stuff with labour. I suggest ordering parts from Atlatic British online and installing. Individual parts to complete kits.

Whatever you do avoid your current place, they sound like crooks.

 

Make sure the brake shop knows how to set up/adjust the rear shoes inside the rear disks for the Park Brake - if they don't then best case scenario you'll find binding on the shoes and the disks will get HOT - worst case scenario your EPB will start screaming like a banshee when you apply it/release it and it may result in a new EPB module. About $700 right there...

You may find this helpful

http://www.disco3.co.uk/wiki/Bodsys'...lacement_guide

 

Yes I will be avoiding this dealer. I am moving anyhow but I just didnt not get the feeling they knew what they were doing. As for the brakes... I wish I had the expertise to do it myself but it is beyond my skill level. Im good with changing fluids and filters and thats about it. After calling around and talking to a few of the techs I am taking it to Big-O for the brakes. The tech seemed to know what he was talking about and has done many LRs as there are alot in the area and no one really wants to go to the local LR dealer... I appreciate the information on the EPB. I will specifically ask them about that.

 

They are probably talking about a hard reset. Its fairly simple. Disconnect the negative battery terminal followed by the positive terminal. Use a piece of wire /I used 12 guage speaker wire/ to connect the 2 terminals. /After they are disconnected from battery!!!/. Leave them connected together for about 15min. Then take wire off and reconnect to battery. Your presets will not be erased. As for the oil change- ridiculous. I pay 59.99 at Valvoline. The transmission is sealed, so 200-300 is normal, as they must take apart, but dealer charging 800 is robbery. Check around city for a shop that works on Rovers. In my city there are several. I just paid 480 for brakes and sensor. And I got my tires on ebay- 255/55/18 for $505.00- Bf Goodrichs and free shipping!!!! Moral of the story- if its not under warranty, avoid the dealership !!!!!!! There is a reason they don't make Haynes or Chilton repair manuals for Rovers- they want your money. I tried to buy a lugnut yesterday at Autozone and Napa- they said its only avail. at dealer- i'm checking ebay instead. In closing, i'm on my 3rd Rover and love them to death. When they are under warranty, the service at Dealer is 2nd to none. After warranty is up find an honest and knowledgeable mechanic who can work on it and check Forum for do-it-yourself tips /that's how I've done it for years- otherwise I couldn't afford to keep them after 50k miles!/ . Enjoy and be thrifty without compromising quality.

 

The whole shop manual is a free download below for the LR3, includes electrical. You have to poke around a bit, but it is all there. As for tranny fluid and filter, you'ld want to read up on that, some parts to remove, etc. We're too small a market in Savannah for a dealer, but they have one on the millionaire island of Hilton Head nearby.

 

I would love to have a manual for the LR4. Do you know of any kicking around?

 

Coolant may not have had a 5 time improvement, but the engine surely did.

IMHO, as someone who has put 160k on their own D3:

You have plenty in there already. You are already above the cold fill level. Do not put a ****ty green 50/50 blend in your truck. Stick with what is supposed to be in there, the stuff that is already in it, the stuff the truck came with: Dexcool.

Replace the sensor. And cut off your brake sensors and splice the wires together, unless you need your truck telling you your brakes are bad.

 

Dexcool can't magically know which truck it is in. In a D2 and plenty of other GM ones with the least bit of contamination, it makes Dexmud sludge in the radiator. No reason to think it won't do it in an LR3 given the chance. You would be absolutely correct to not mix coolants.