Hello Everyone,
Back again with 2006 LR3 Suspension issue. Though I was able to determine that my rear valve block electrical was indeed disconnected (had to use zip ties to keep it plugged in), and my compressor is now running and all corners are inflating except front driver's side, I am getting a code from my Gap tool that says: C1A20-64. (AF) Pressure increases too slow when filling reservoir- Algorithm based failure- signal plausibility failure. So after starting the vehicle, the compressor will run for about 30 seconds then it will stop and this code is flagged. Also the compressor sounds very weak when it is running. Wondering if the compressor is not working properly and that is why front driver's bag not inflating, or another issue? Even after the compressor stops, I can still raise and lower all corners with the Gap tool except for that front driver's side. Appreciate any advice as to what the issue could be!

 

...and you've checked the fittings to that front strut for any leaks? It does sound like you may need a new compressor, it happens...but you'll want to fix any other existing issues, too....so that a replacement compressor doesn't have to work overtime and fail early.

 

I will do that next. And I will check the front valve block again. I had already replaced that as there was a stuck piston. Perhaps one of those fittings is not as tight as needs to be.
Thank you!

 

Make sure the lines to the front valve block are correct, people hook them up wrong all too often. The green, for example, is for a strut not incoming air. Also you can try lifting that side up to see if it start to then fill with air. Lifting the vehicle up and extending the strut will help "seal" a crack in the air bag just incase it is leaking at a fold in the bladder.

 

Check the drier of the compressor, may be able to get away with a rebuild instead of replacement.

 

I definitely will try this tomorrow. Was reading on another post about raising the vehicle first on the wheel where the sag is located, then activate susp. Maybe that’s all it will take, would be nice! But I’ll check those lines too, maybe I crossed. Thank you!

 

Split hidden under a roll caught me out, raised to off-road height and you could hear the ppfftt.

 

I actually replaced the desiccant awhile back as the compressor was operating very loudly. This made it much quieter, helped the situation overall, but not a total fix, then I noticed the rear block electrical unplugged, so slowly tracking down the culprits! The EAS is a great system but quite a few moving parts. I think I replaced some in the wrong order and that is partly to blame for the difficulty in pinpointing the issue, Thank you for your reply!

 

So I have checked connections for leaks, I tried raising the left front tire and front end to assist in EAS operation, but so far still getting a code and non operation. I’m attaching a pic of my front valve block to show line routing; I think I have it right? On the left side line from top is connected on top, line from bottom connected on bottom.

 

Yes, that looks correct. I will add that since you said you replaces parts it is important to know that the front and rear valve blocks are not the same and do not function the same, so they can not be swapped. And some sellers will say they work at either end, they do not.

Also maybe less soap. You dont want much, just a couple drops. If you get foam when spraying it is harder to find the true air leak if there is one.

Do you hear a leak when that corner should be going up? I would think you would if the leak is that bad. Only other thing it could be is a failed valve block, but that can usually throw a code because the EAS will want to lift that corner and it will not happen, and it will see gallery pressure climb to fast. So when a strut is stuck closed, you get a couple codes. But you said the only code is for reservoir? Is is possible that the corner you think should raise is actually okay? By that I mean maybe the sensor is messed up or you need a proper calibration of heights. I forget, did you try a guided calibration and try to raise just that one corner? I would do that, but dont save the calibration. Just use the guided calibration to test. And of note the compressor may or may not fire up during guided calibration, that is normal.