2006 LR 3 Continuing suspension issue
Yes, that looks correct. I will add that since you said you replaces parts it is important to know that the front and rear valve blocks are not the same and do not function the same, so they can not be swapped. And some sellers will say they work at either end, they do not.
Also maybe less soap. You dont want much, just a couple drops. If you get foam when spraying it is harder to find the true air leak if there is one.
Do you hear a leak when that corner should be going up? I would think you would if the leak is that bad. Only other thing it could be is a failed valve block, but that can usually throw a code because the EAS will want to lift that corner and it will not happen, and it will see gallery pressure climb to fast. So when a strut is stuck closed, you get a couple codes. But you said the only code is for reservoir? Is is possible that the corner you think should raise is actually okay? By that I mean maybe the sensor is messed up or you need a proper calibration of heights. I forget, did you try a guided calibration and try to raise just that one corner? I would do that, but dont save the calibration. Just use the guided calibration to test. And of note the compressor may or may not fire up during guided calibration, that is normal.
Also maybe less soap. You dont want much, just a couple drops. If you get foam when spraying it is harder to find the true air leak if there is one.
Do you hear a leak when that corner should be going up? I would think you would if the leak is that bad. Only other thing it could be is a failed valve block, but that can usually throw a code because the EAS will want to lift that corner and it will not happen, and it will see gallery pressure climb to fast. So when a strut is stuck closed, you get a couple codes. But you said the only code is for reservoir? Is is possible that the corner you think should raise is actually okay? By that I mean maybe the sensor is messed up or you need a proper calibration of heights. I forget, did you try a guided calibration and try to raise just that one corner? I would do that, but dont save the calibration. Just use the guided calibration to test. And of note the compressor may or may not fire up during guided calibration, that is normal.
Thank you everyone for your sage advice as always, I really appreciate it! So after working on it today, and though I was able to get the compressor to operate, it sounded so feeble that I think the compressor is shot and no longer able to get enough air into the system before it throws a code. The unit is only a year old and under warranty, so I think I will get a new one. Unfortunately when I put it in last year, I did not have time to do the seals on valve blocks and the unit just had to work too hard to raise it. I have done the seals now but I think it was too late. I’ll check the codes again tomorrow and repost when I figure this out!
If it is not a genuine Hitachi or AMK then they tend to not last, some are bad within a month. Arnott is the only aftermarket compressor I trust and I have one installed now. Sometimes they real deal ones pop up on Amazon warehouse for cheap, it is how I got my Arnott for $300 versus $600. Hitachi come up from time to time too. But there is nothing listed now, but it is a great way to save $$ sometimes and returns are easy with Amazon. But yeah, if you have an aftermarket then it can be part of the issue. Not sure what you have tho.
Yes, you are correct! It is an aftermarket AMG so I do think it’s quite possibly the culprit. It was super loud just before I started having all the trouble back in January, and I’m sure the valve blocks weren’t helping. Also I did change out the desiccant in this one but I think it just is too far gone.
There should have been no need to change the desiccant being that new, it will last for years. But yes, you may have overworked it if the Rover was dropping a lot overnight, etc. I guess you need to see if they will honor the warranty.
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