Too cold to snow - that I understand; others may not believe it, but yes, there are places where for the most part, it is just too cold and dry for there to be snow.

Well I guess the Moon is one of those places and Mackenzie is another.

Today, I got to looking at just where Mackenzie is. I had it about right - kind of near Fort St John but more west into the mountains; a bit south of where Sam McGee toured about - no tropical bugs up there I presume?

I also noted it seems to be a place where roads go to die - there do not seem to be any; hence the need for a 3 I guess; also the kind of place that gives birth to rivers. I assume you use satellite for internet - lucky you have that being so far north on maybe you tie to a DND or NORAD satellite - they are about the only guys who have any sort of coverage up there.

Yes, I did note the mittys in the photo holding the speed sensors and kind of guessed at the background - very pristine.

 

LOL

master info tech and comedian! We most definitely sit at the end of a road to... well, Mackenzie.

 

hahaha, hilarious stuff

 

I had this problem in my 08 RRS. Something of note was that a few weeks before I started getting this fault, i would notice that my trip odometer would be reset to zero, mostly when I parked the car overnight. I replaced my batter and no more HDC/Brake/engine faults. Not a cheap fix, but it was easy.

 

So I finally broke down and paid someone to install it. I just never had the time, and I was afraid I was going to get stuck somewhere. Seems to work fine, and all in I was less than $200 part and labor.

Next I need to open the solenoid on my old one and see about replacing the contacts.

 

Well, I'm in the same situation.

found this thread and got to work: I replaced the brake light switch (but did not find any "black powder").
It did the trick for a day, and then the transmission fault reappeared today, and the suspension dropped.

I just checked the battery at my local garage, and it's doing very well, so the battery does not seem to be the issue.

The faults do appear differently than before...: Before changing the switch, I just had to push the brakes slightly, and the faults would appear.

Now, I can drive the car normally, and I start getting warnings that I am driving too fast (even if the suspension is not down). Then after 5 minutes of driving around, all the faults reappear (transmission etc.) and the suspension drops.

I did change the brake lightbulb yesterday for a generic one... Can't believe a simply lightbulb would do all this!!!

thanks for your advice.

 

In this case, it is probably not the new bulb but there are also arguments to say that quality control is better on the Land Rover marketed bulbs than say far east sourced bulbs. Filament construction, and hence resistance can vary and mislead the current sensing circuits monitoring the signal light systems. Also when the bulbs are properly installed, all filaments should be standing vertically and not at any slope.

For example, the filament life of both the tail light and the brake light filaments in the P21/5 bulb is significantly less than the USA common 1157 dual filament bulb, (1000/250 vs 5000/1200 hours); brightness in the P21/5 is a bit more, (3cp/35cp vs 3cp/32cp where cp is candle power), but current consumption is oddly less, (0.44a/1.86a vs 0.59a/2.10a where a is amps). It is the quest for efficiency vs maintenance trade off.

Even if there was some sort of quality control, I suspect the far east bunch makes no distinction between the P21/5 bulb and the 1157; as long as it can be exported, that is all that really matters.

Regarding the genuine bulbs, as mentioned above, the two filaments are always standing vertically. Not only are vertical filaments more resistant to failure, if the filaments are significantly out of the vertical, a broken filament can drop onto or giggle over onto the other filament and short the circuit to ground or something else not predicable.

These are the sort of obscure circumstances that can lead to false trouble messages on the display, dropping to the stops, and subsequent concerns - all over a tail/signal light bulb.

I figure the sure way to disable an armoured LR3 is to knock out a tail light - not so good for James Bond or his girl friends.

In your case, is your steering wheel pointing straight ahead when the 3 is on a straight road?

If not, the steering wheel sensor signals may be at odds with the anti skid sensor signals and the mismatch can force the computers to put the 3 into safe mode.

 

I bought myself an MD 802 (all systems). It has the software for all makes; Asian, European, and Domestic.

$340 CDN + tax. From a local shop, not the internet and shipped from China.

eBay results show prices at $330 for the 4 system and a range of $400 - 550 for the All systems unit that I purchased in store! worked out pretty good I reckon.

Now, to see how well it works, just as soon as I get a bit of time.

 

Can these scanners modify the Car Configuration File, (ie make the Daytime Running Lights work Canadian, EU, or OFF, that sort of thing), or do they primarily detect codes?

Faultmate and some others can modify the CCF and also install new software as well but I gather that is not so routine.

 

Since starting my new job working twelve 12 hour shifts in a row, with two days off, I have had no spare time to play with the scanner. All I have done so far is a quick scan and clear, just to see what pops up again.

I did see something in there about the park brake un jam sequence, but I have not seen anything to do with the CCF