2006 LR3 - Transmission fault, HDC fault, Parking brake fault, Engine system fault
#61
08-16-2014, 12:56 PM
sensors
Hello!!!
Ive read all of this with the same problems. Lights have been lit for months. Where did you get the sensors? How difficult were they to change? Aftermarket sensors?
I need help....
Matt
QUOTE=spiderman;438877]SO!!
Finally sorted out the problem and of course, it was the last corner that I changed that was the problematic ABS sensor. I now have four new sensors installed in the driveway at a cost of roughly $300.
Good news is that the "three amigos"
DYNAMIC STABILITY CONTROL, AIR SUSPENSION, and ABS/PARK BRAKE
Will likely lead you to a faulty ABS/speed sensor.
I mentioned in an earlier post that I assumed the rear were to blame as I was informed that the front sensor was very rarely sold by my LR dealer and so I ordered the two for the rear. After changing both in a matter of an hour or so (quite simple really) I had no change in fault messages. I then ordered two for the front. The front are more of a challenge due to the plug-in end being hidden by the wheel arch liner and the sensor end requiring the removal of the caliper. That wasn't the only problem though, I also found the sensors to be surrounded by so much dirt and corrosion that they both broke as I was trying to remove them. That was nothing a careful drilling process and a vacuum couldn't fix. I also ran a dremel rotary tool in the bore to clean it as best as possible. Below are pictures of the new vs old sensor and the part that was left in the bore that needed drilling out.
A big THANK YOU! to all who have contributed to this thread, turned out to be valuable info for any and all of us who may find a barrage of yellow lights. I certainly hope this post helps someone in the future![/QUOTE]
Ive read all of this with the same problems. Lights have been lit for months. Where did you get the sensors? How difficult were they to change? Aftermarket sensors?
I need help....
Matt
QUOTE=spiderman;438877]SO!!
Finally sorted out the problem and of course, it was the last corner that I changed that was the problematic ABS sensor. I now have four new sensors installed in the driveway at a cost of roughly $300.
Good news is that the "three amigos"
DYNAMIC STABILITY CONTROL, AIR SUSPENSION, and ABS/PARK BRAKE
Will likely lead you to a faulty ABS/speed sensor.
I mentioned in an earlier post that I assumed the rear were to blame as I was informed that the front sensor was very rarely sold by my LR dealer and so I ordered the two for the rear. After changing both in a matter of an hour or so (quite simple really) I had no change in fault messages. I then ordered two for the front. The front are more of a challenge due to the plug-in end being hidden by the wheel arch liner and the sensor end requiring the removal of the caliper. That wasn't the only problem though, I also found the sensors to be surrounded by so much dirt and corrosion that they both broke as I was trying to remove them. That was nothing a careful drilling process and a vacuum couldn't fix. I also ran a dremel rotary tool in the bore to clean it as best as possible. Below are pictures of the new vs old sensor and the part that was left in the bore that needed drilling out.
A big THANK YOU! to all who have contributed to this thread, turned out to be valuable info for any and all of us who may find a barrage of yellow lights. I certainly hope this post helps someone in the future![/QUOTE]
#62
10-29-2014, 04:59 PM
Super Moderator
hit a hard bump going into a parking lot went in store came out and I think every light on my dash is lit up, states hdc trans fault limited gears, suspension lowered , apply park brake
suspension lite is on , traction , engine, yellow park brake, red park brake flashing, brake, abs, maybe others , large E displayed by odometer
looks like a brake switch is the common cure?
suspension lite is on , traction , engine, yellow park brake, red park brake flashing, brake, abs, maybe others , large E displayed by odometer
looks like a brake switch is the common cure?
Last edited by TOM R; 10-30-2014 at 10:44 AM.
#63
10-30-2014, 10:43 AM
Super Moderator
Went out this morning checked batt, 12.56 volts, start engine lights still on, check volts running over 15 volts
Go back in vehicle lights out??? Everything back to normal but engine light on
Plug in ug
Codes v0121, p0205, p0205
Ug cleared them no return, drove to cherry hill rover bought new brake switch and brake bulbs, went home installed so if it teturns that's ruled out
The v0121 is abs so next thing is the splice on the pass floor shed the water leak was if this returns
Search also returned check under hood fuse f30 10 amp, if blown unplug black box on side right side of trans and replace fuse, my fuse was good
Go back in vehicle lights out??? Everything back to normal but engine light on
Plug in ug
Codes v0121, p0205, p0205
Ug cleared them no return, drove to cherry hill rover bought new brake switch and brake bulbs, went home installed so if it teturns that's ruled out
The v0121 is abs so next thing is the splice on the pass floor shed the water leak was if this returns
Search also returned check under hood fuse f30 10 amp, if blown unplug black box on side right side of trans and replace fuse, my fuse was good
#64
10-30-2014, 11:14 AM
Pro Wrench
does not solve everything but
I am a real proponent of changing out the brake light switch at the first sign of most warning light troubles.
The reality is that a new switch does not solve all problems, but it is a cheap easy first attempt and a new switch reduces false lights in the future once one does solve the real problem.
Regarding warning lights reoccurring, even after manually clearing codes, I try not to get too depressed if one illuminates shortly thereafter.
It seems that often for a light to first illuminate, often a lot of errors have to be stored first; also after a clearing, I do not think all the errors that caused a light to illuminate are gone, hence a warning light may still illuminate due to what I call residual codes even though the problem that caused the errors has been eliminated.
It just seems to take time for the cancelled codes, false or otherwise, to work their way out of the system.
The reality is that a new switch does not solve all problems, but it is a cheap easy first attempt and a new switch reduces false lights in the future once one does solve the real problem.
Regarding warning lights reoccurring, even after manually clearing codes, I try not to get too depressed if one illuminates shortly thereafter.
It seems that often for a light to first illuminate, often a lot of errors have to be stored first; also after a clearing, I do not think all the errors that caused a light to illuminate are gone, hence a warning light may still illuminate due to what I call residual codes even though the problem that caused the errors has been eliminated.
It just seems to take time for the cancelled codes, false or otherwise, to work their way out of the system.
#66
10-30-2014, 05:50 PM
Recovery Vehicle
#67
10-30-2014, 07:14 PM
Pro Wrench
30 seconds is probably OK but ....
Below is my version of the hard reset instructions. In it I recommend two minutes, but in truth, I suspect 30 seconds is OK. One is just discharging capacitors and the like.
As to does a hard reset solve all problems, no, it does not solve very many at all actually.
A hard reset is a good first step however as it costs nothing and certainly often solves "the radio quit for no reason" type concerns - usually after a battery disconnect or something like that.
To clear trouble codes and make warning lights go out, one normally needs a Faultmate type OBD code clearing / reader.
Also clearing codes is not necessarily the same as fixing a problem.
The advantage of clearing codes is that when they keep coming back, then one must assume something somewhere is unhappy. Recognize that the code registered may have nothing to do with the real problem; ie, there is no code for a corroded or broken wire, hence the computers search and display any number of "wrong" codes in an attempt to diagnose the wiring problem - and more often than not, our problems are with the wires or contacts, not with chunks of iron.
Hard Reset Instructions
In brief, to start the hard reset process, open the hood but close all doors and let your 3 go to sleep - no radio display etc and no key in the ignition.This will take a couple of minutes and do not open any doors until the reset is completed.(I find that it is often a good idea to have the drivers door window rolled down and the key in my pocket whenever fooling about the vehicle.)Also when I play with a car battery, I remove any rings I have from my fingers, also my watch.
Disconnect the ground battery terminal from the main starting battery.
Disconnect the positive battery terminal from the main starting battery.
The reason for this order is if a wrench or loose battery cable ends grounds to the body, no arcing or other bad things happen.
(I assume that you only have one battery in your 3. If not, disconnect the others as well and leave them disconnected until after all is done.)
Connect the negative cable to the positive cable. (NOT the battery.) You will need a short length, (a foot or so), of light gauge, (14 to 18 gauge AWG, insulated stranded copper), wire to span between the battery cable ends as there is not enough slack in the positive and negative battery cables for the ends to touch each other.
Hold all together for about a minute or more, (at least two minutes), as you are discharging memory modules within the engine computer and elsewhere.Then it is suggested you then just let all sit disconnected for say ten minutes, (minimum five minutes), prior to commencing to put the battery cable ends back on the battery posts per the following order.
Reattach positive terminal to the main starting battery positive post.
Reattach negative terminal to the main starting battery negative post.
Start engine and hopefully none or at least fewer warning lights.
Reset time on the radio - note that the station presets are still there as not everything is erased.Nothing much else needs resetting either.
You can also now connect up the other batteries if you have a multiple battery setup.
This is a link to a thread in disco3 re the hard reset procedure. http://bit.ly/14WXXR1
http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic19547.html
This is a link to a thread on Disco3Club re the hard reset procedure.
http://www.disco3club.co.uk/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=67&t=3374
As to does a hard reset solve all problems, no, it does not solve very many at all actually.
A hard reset is a good first step however as it costs nothing and certainly often solves "the radio quit for no reason" type concerns - usually after a battery disconnect or something like that.
To clear trouble codes and make warning lights go out, one normally needs a Faultmate type OBD code clearing / reader.
Also clearing codes is not necessarily the same as fixing a problem.
The advantage of clearing codes is that when they keep coming back, then one must assume something somewhere is unhappy. Recognize that the code registered may have nothing to do with the real problem; ie, there is no code for a corroded or broken wire, hence the computers search and display any number of "wrong" codes in an attempt to diagnose the wiring problem - and more often than not, our problems are with the wires or contacts, not with chunks of iron.
Hard Reset Instructions
In brief, to start the hard reset process, open the hood but close all doors and let your 3 go to sleep - no radio display etc and no key in the ignition.This will take a couple of minutes and do not open any doors until the reset is completed.(I find that it is often a good idea to have the drivers door window rolled down and the key in my pocket whenever fooling about the vehicle.)Also when I play with a car battery, I remove any rings I have from my fingers, also my watch.
Disconnect the ground battery terminal from the main starting battery.
Disconnect the positive battery terminal from the main starting battery.
The reason for this order is if a wrench or loose battery cable ends grounds to the body, no arcing or other bad things happen.
(I assume that you only have one battery in your 3. If not, disconnect the others as well and leave them disconnected until after all is done.)
Connect the negative cable to the positive cable. (NOT the battery.) You will need a short length, (a foot or so), of light gauge, (14 to 18 gauge AWG, insulated stranded copper), wire to span between the battery cable ends as there is not enough slack in the positive and negative battery cables for the ends to touch each other.
Hold all together for about a minute or more, (at least two minutes), as you are discharging memory modules within the engine computer and elsewhere.Then it is suggested you then just let all sit disconnected for say ten minutes, (minimum five minutes), prior to commencing to put the battery cable ends back on the battery posts per the following order.
Reattach positive terminal to the main starting battery positive post.
Reattach negative terminal to the main starting battery negative post.
Start engine and hopefully none or at least fewer warning lights.
Reset time on the radio - note that the station presets are still there as not everything is erased.Nothing much else needs resetting either.
You can also now connect up the other batteries if you have a multiple battery setup.
This is a link to a thread in disco3 re the hard reset procedure. http://bit.ly/14WXXR1
http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic19547.html
This is a link to a thread on Disco3Club re the hard reset procedure.
http://www.disco3club.co.uk/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=67&t=3374
#70
11-10-2014, 10:21 AM
Recovery Vehicle
I tried the reset method described above, it didn't work. For some reason the faults dropping with the reset procedure. It is still showing a transmission fault, an engine fault and a suspension fault. Still showing an E on the gear selection window on the instrument panel.
I still can't get the RRS to turn over. There is power at the starter positive cable with the key in the start position. There is clicking at the relays behind the glove boxes, there is fuel pump power and activation, There is also occasional repeated clicking of a relay in the fuse box on the passenger wheel arch in the engine compartment. I also have a humming coming from the electronic throttle body that usually stays on even when the key is released from the start position to the run position. I also swapped out the brake switch in an effort to eliminate issues, the swap didn't make any difference at all. Starting to pull my hair out here in San Diego........thanks Phil
I still can't get the RRS to turn over. There is power at the starter positive cable with the key in the start position. There is clicking at the relays behind the glove boxes, there is fuel pump power and activation, There is also occasional repeated clicking of a relay in the fuse box on the passenger wheel arch in the engine compartment. I also have a humming coming from the electronic throttle body that usually stays on even when the key is released from the start position to the run position. I also swapped out the brake switch in an effort to eliminate issues, the swap didn't make any difference at all. Starting to pull my hair out here in San Diego........thanks Phil