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I got a new battery today and replaced it and still have all the same lights and error messages. Not sure about the codes (I just have a cheap code reader that does check engine lights).
When I replaced the tail light bulbs I didn't use Land Rover bulbs. I'm thinking I might try ordering LR bulbs and see if that does anything.
How can I reset the codes? I guess a hard reset? I'll try that and see if they come back.
I do not think you will be wasting your money on re dealer sourced bulbs. The reality is that good bulbs will probably not solve the problem but you have to eliminate possible sources of problems first. Also check the backup light bulbs as there is a way that power can backfeed thru the reverse light circuit.
Replace all the bulbs, the signal light, and the brake / tail light bulbs as well.
Now that you have the new battery, measure the voltage with all off. Ideally you should see about 12.3 volts but at least 12.2 volts. The odds are you will not see that. The solution is to put the battery on a trickle charger every night for a week.
The charging system of the 3 is challenged to be kind, and the computers even though they run at 5 VDC seem to need at least 13.3 VDC when the engine is running. If the battery starts low, there can be many false problems. I call them false as the problems are not mechanical problems but systems related. The 3 is a mobile computer first and the worlds most capable 4x4 second.
Also 2008 was the good year; up to then it was a learning curve, after 2008 they were working on the 4 and the 2009 was a test mule for the 4's system.
It could be a suspension height sensor, abs sensor, abs ecu, trans ecu, the actual shifter, the offroad selector, wiring in the pass floor, the bulk connectors on the drivers side frame at the back
These are just a few things I got from the rover tech as possibilities when mine was acting up
It could be a suspension height sensor, abs sensor, abs ecu, trans ecu, the actual shifter, the offroad selector, wiring in the pass floor, the bulk connectors on the drivers side frame at the back
These are just a few things I got from the rover tech as possibilities when mine was acting up
Ultimately you will probably have to invest in a code reader but the problem is in the interpetation of the codes. I am not saying that the code readers lie, it is more that the software that feeds them has shortcomings.
About a year ago, I finally purchased a code reader not so much to read codes as to beable to reflash the software and code reading is a side benifit.
I have my Land Rover dealer do most of my fixing so I guess that is why I have not had one but for the most part, I figure out what is wrong and then have them do the fix. Anyway, my most recent problem was the MIL light came on and the code reader said P0174, lean mixture.
The problem which I figured out myself was the dealer at the last oil change ignored my instructions not to check the engine air filter as I replace it myself but in checking just tipped up the cover and in doing so dislodged the rubber gasket on the round air discharge creating an air leak in the intake system. I reset the gasket and MIL light went off.
I suppose their was a lean mixture condition as the air leak was downstream of the Mass Airflow Sensor so the computer calculations would be messed up but what I am saying is that the solution was simple and not some fuel injection concern. I have found that to be a characteristic of the 3, the solutions are simple if you can figure it out the problem and that is the hard part.
As such, I try not to create problems. Off spec bulbs are what I call creating problems as they can potentially introduce variables. Low state of charge in even a new battery is another variable the the computers react badly to. It now seems an airleak in the induction system is another.
Regarding a hard reset, yes do it. Again it will most lkely not resolve any of the suspension light concerns as not many codes are cleared with the procedure. About the only problems a hard reset has resolved for me relates to the infotainment system not working, and that is big one when all you have is silence. Replacing a battery can shut the radio down and hence the hard reset can resolve whatever it is that got upset.
I find that reading battery voltage is like reading ones blood pressure - over time trends become apparent and you can forecast concerns.
Incidentally the fact the problem showed on your first cold day I regard as significant. While the problem is as above, most likely a connector, wiring, corrrosion or a sensor, I found that replacing the brake switch was for me a solution when I first had the nasty messages no tranny etc problem. I always used LR sourced bulbs so that was never a problem and since you have replaced the switch, I would first be replacing bulbs, both in the rear and also the front signal light bulbs as well.
The computers can really indicate false problems when instead, they are effectively the problem.
Okay first thing tomorrow morning I will have all of the bulbs ordered. The problem is I don't have a dealership anywhere near me (in Alaska). We have a shop that works on land rovers so I can order my parts there, however Id never have any work done there. I do have a shop that I use and will probably end up taking the 3 there if I can't get this figured out in the next few days. I need to get a battery tester so I can check on the new battery. And as far as a code reader, I would really want it to clear the clodes. Was thinking with the new battery, brake light switch and bulbs, maybe I could clear the codes and they wouldn't come back (probably wishful thinking).
Below is a link re the P221/5 bulb and a comparison with the common USA 1157 that I used to purchase at any GM dealer. I always buy dealer supplied bulbs rather than far east sourced bulbs as the price difference is small and the problems that can be created by far east bulbs big now in these newer vehicles.
Back in 2006, LR was installing new trannys in the 3's until they discovered owners had been installing non LR bulbs - then LR wanted the 7 grand cost back.
Given you are in Alaska, I do not even know if there would be a Mercedes dealer where you are. It is not so much bulbs that come in LR marked bags you need as bulbs that have some sort of quality control process involved prior to the packaging. Mercedes or VW sourced bulbs would be OK I figure as long as they come out of a dealer parts chain.
Also as a warning, I have have misbagging problems with the LR bulbs. I got W5W bulbs packed as W3W. I found out when the W5W melted into the sidelight sockets of both the headlights and tail lights. The 5 watt W5W produce more heat than the plastic can stand.
Also do not put LED signal light bulbs in the back - they draw too little current and the computers think the signal light bulbs at the rear are burned out. Also if you pull a trailer, LED bulbs in the trailer created problems as well.
This is a link to a discussion re the P21/5 bulb that is common in the rear; also a comparison with the USA 1157 that is easy to get.
Re battery tester, all I had in mind was a normal volt meter. A load type battery tester will show all is good as the tester is most likely either a battery tester purely or an old style electrical system testers of which the 3 always passes. These new regulators require fancy computerized testers than no battery shop has yet.
If there is any good news, Ford is starting to install our style regulators in their new pickups; (after 10 years of testing by LR), hence in a couple of years, some Ford dealers and generator shops will be up to speed with the newer systems. This is a link related to the regulator.
I had the same errors on 2005 LR3. Transmission Fault, HDC, and lowered air suspension. I have a OBD2 bluetooth adapter that I scanned the system and found out that I was also having a coolant error as well. I first tried what everyone else did, with the brake switch with no luck. I wanted to kick this POS's doors off. I have had nothing but disappointment with Land Rover. The dealer ship wanted $175 just to look over it. I did not want to put any money into as there is just no value to the LR3 anymore. I normally fix all of my own cars, but the Land Rover is a different story. We I ripped out all the interior from the passenger side to look for bad wiring. Everything looked great. I then decided to look at the coolant error and that is when I found the sensor that goes to the thermostat was broken. It is on top of the motor on the passenger side. For some reason that will also throw the other error codes. I was able to repair the cables and she is up and running.
12-06-2014, 10:54 PM
New battery - lights still there
