Good Morning All.

Finally decided to go ahead and sign up and post. I've relied on these posts for years working on the LR3 but I can't seem to find any answers for my current problem.

I've got a pretty big issue. I've owned my 2006 LR3 since new, 171,000 miles (we've not used it much the past 5 years). I love it still. However, I had the typical sunroof drain leak on my passenger side and it filled the floorboard and the entire "trough" down the passenger side below the front and back doors with water. Who knows how long it sat full of water like that, like I said, we don't use it much these days. I fixed the drain, which was a chore in it's own right...

Now comes the fun part. Before I fixed the leak, I tried to take it out for a quick spin, made it 300 yds and the traction control tried to stop me, every dash light you can imagine came on, all systems shut down and the suspension lowered. Turn off the rover, start it back up, all seems fine, suspension back up, no lights. Drive 300 yds and repeat... It will idle all day long in the driveway, nothing ever happens, it's only when I roll down the road for 30 seconds.

I'm sure it's pretty safe to assume that the lake the entire wiring harness sat in for who knows how long is the cause? I looked at the connectors on the back of the CJB while I had it out fixing the drain tube and it looked brand new...

I'm sure everyone is ready with a real quick and easy answer on this one!

 

I guess for starters I'd dry out the lake bed....and then look at all the wiring/connectors in that area to see if there is corrosion or ruptures in the previous connections. I'd also invest in an IIDTool.

 

houm_wa

Yeah, it's pretty much dried out at this point. I've got that entire harness exposed, though playing with it while it's connected to the seat is difficult, so I may take the seat out and disconnect so I have so wiggle room. Do you think an IIDTool would help me in this situation? If so, which one does everyone recommend? I know there are a few options.

Thank you!

 

Connected to the seat? Have you pulled up the carpet and seen all the wires running along the sill? If you haven't then you might also be surprised at how much water is still under the carpet. That mat under their is like a sponge. I would suggest the BT version of the IIDTool. I had the non-BT for a while and upgraded; it's awesome and worth the extra dough.

 

I don't have the carpet all of the way up yet, I haven't taken out the seat to make that easier. But yes, I've seen all of the wires running under the sill, I've been messing with them but I sort of felt like if I took the seat out, I could disconnect the wires that run from the sill (I'm assuming they go to the heated and powered seats) and then get the carpet all of the way up and have more wiggle room with the wires.

I did order a brake light switch, for $30, seems like that might be worth a shot and that it's just a coincidence that I had problems after the leak!

Is this the IID Tool you mentioned? If I can get this electrical deal fixed, I plan on keeping the truck, it's been with me since New in 2006, hard to want to say goodbye.

https://www.gap-diagnostic.com/shop/iidtool-bt/

Thanks for your help and response. Sort of get lost trying to fix things without taking it to the dealership (who's been great to us, but just not wanting to spend lots of $$ hunting down this problem)

Next issue will be the suspension. I've done the front lower control arms, twice and tie rods, but I'm running on the original compressor and Air Struts...Thinking about the switch away from air......it's pretty pricey to replace the factory system and we only use it for mild off-road to hiking trails and in the snow these days. Anyone have actual experience with the coil conversion? And yes, I know, it's not what I bought 15 years ago when I got a LR with air suspension...

 

Yes that is the tool I mentioned, and it is worth the $.

I don't think you need to remove the seat to get the carpet cleaned or the wires repaired, but yeah it would probably help. The brake light switch isn't a bad idea since it's a cheap part. If it really was that flooded though, I'd say you are on the right track with the wiring on the passenger side floorboard/sill.

Don't switch away from air. Front air struts from Arnott aren't too bad (and they carry a lifetime warranty) and a new compressor will last you quite a while. The EAS is integral to the LR3's DNA. You have had this vehicle since new; it's part of the family...put the time and money into it because quite frankly it's irreplaceable. What are you going to buy in its stead???

 

I'll have an update on the brake switch hopefully this afternoon, if I want to brave the snow and install it. If that doesn't fix it, I'll probably get that tool ordered.

I did have another thought, I've read a lot of this issue and lots of folks have claimed that their "ABS" sensor had gone bad and that fixed their issue. Part of my thinks it may have something to do with a "moving" part because it only happens after I drive a couple hundred yards. I guess the question I have on that one is, are they all talking about the brake wear sensor that connects to the rotors? When i did my brake a couple of years ago, my front one fell off and only the brake light came on, or is there another senor at each wheel?

As far as the suspension goes, I just see it snowballing, new air struts, compresor, valve blocks...for half the money, I can get a 2" lift and lose A LOT of potential system issues. I've had my eyes on an 80 series Land Cruiser for years, simple and highly reliable. I had one right out of college back in 2001 for about 6 months (traded it for a sports car) and always thought that could be a similar option. Now, I'm very much a land rover guy, we've had three different ones, the LR3 is the only one to make it the entire time. In fact, we traded in my wifes 2014 Range Rover (bought new) for...a Hyundai Palisade...because she was tired of all of the small issues we had with the Range Rover. I will lsay, we are 1.5 years into the Palisade, only two oil changes...not even a recall. I guess that's a discussion for another day/thread. Let's hope a simple fix is all I need and the LR3 will probably survive this latest scare. I do love it, so very much.

Thanks again for all of your help.

 

Opinions vary, but mine is that removing the EAS also removes capability. It's integral to the design of the LR3. You just got 14 years out of it!!! It deserves the refresh.