2006 LR3 Wont Drive in Any Gear
#1
2006 LR3 Wont Drive in Any Gear
Hi all,
I'm new here. Just picked up a 2006 LR3 SE with 144K on it. Bought it with a non-functional drive-train. Starts and runs good but the transmission is not grabbing. I put it in drive and the engine just revs but doesn't move. It kind of feels like it's thinking about it a high revs but has absolutely zero power. The same is true in reverse, sport mode, low range, and manual gear selection 1-3 (won't let me go any higher at a standstill, is this normal?). When you shift between drive, reverse, and neutral you can feel a change in the car, the kind of eager-to-go feeling i would call normal for an automatic.
So my question is, what is likely wrong? From what I've read (I have done some research) it looks like the stiff linkage can be a problem, but would it cause the vehicle to not function at all as mine is? It's going into neutral and seems to be going into the other selections, just not moving. I've also read that doing a fluid flush can go a long way, but again, would low/old fluid give me symptoms this extreme?
I just bought the vehicle so i don't know how the problem started: i don't know if it gradually started slipping or if it stopped working all at once. If the previous owner kept driving it after it started slipping would this cause any catastrophic damage?
So, what do you all think? I bought this vehicle with the intention of fixing it myself, be that replacing the fluid or buying a used unit and swapping it in. I am a capable at home mechanic but would like to hear from those who know more than I.
Thanks you in advance
I'm new here. Just picked up a 2006 LR3 SE with 144K on it. Bought it with a non-functional drive-train. Starts and runs good but the transmission is not grabbing. I put it in drive and the engine just revs but doesn't move. It kind of feels like it's thinking about it a high revs but has absolutely zero power. The same is true in reverse, sport mode, low range, and manual gear selection 1-3 (won't let me go any higher at a standstill, is this normal?). When you shift between drive, reverse, and neutral you can feel a change in the car, the kind of eager-to-go feeling i would call normal for an automatic.
So my question is, what is likely wrong? From what I've read (I have done some research) it looks like the stiff linkage can be a problem, but would it cause the vehicle to not function at all as mine is? It's going into neutral and seems to be going into the other selections, just not moving. I've also read that doing a fluid flush can go a long way, but again, would low/old fluid give me symptoms this extreme?
I just bought the vehicle so i don't know how the problem started: i don't know if it gradually started slipping or if it stopped working all at once. If the previous owner kept driving it after it started slipping would this cause any catastrophic damage?
So, what do you all think? I bought this vehicle with the intention of fixing it myself, be that replacing the fluid or buying a used unit and swapping it in. I am a capable at home mechanic but would like to hear from those who know more than I.
Thanks you in advance
#2
Is it leaking transmission fluid? Check the transmission cross member and the transmission pan heat shield to see if it is wet with transmission fluid. If so, the level of the fluid in the transmission is probably low which may be causing your issues. The mechatronic pass through seals can leak on these transmissions, especially at the mileage it has (if the trans has never been serviced). Any service records with the vehicle? Any lights or warnings on the dash display?
#3
Is it leaking transmission fluid? Check the transmission cross member and the transmission pan heat shield to see if it is wet with transmission fluid. If so, the level of the fluid in the transmission is probably low which may be causing your issues. The mechatronic pass through seals can leak on these transmissions, especially at the mileage it has (if the trans has never been serviced). Any service records with the vehicle? Any lights or warnings on the dash display?
I should have included the lights and codes. I have 5 codes:
P0579 Crusie control multi-function input a circuit range/performance
P0736 Reverse Incorrect Ratio
P0735 Gear 5 Incorrect Ration
P0741 Torque Converter clutch solenoid circuit performance or stuck off
P0741 again
The brake light is also on and it is telling me to check pad wear. I also don't think my e-brake works.
I don't want to get my hopes up, and I definitely need to research these codes more, but it sounds like a transmission flush, seals, and refill could be a good start.
#4
#5
The mechatronic pass through is on the passenger side so that's most likely where the leak is. ArmyRover is correct. Start with the top off and see if it moves. Search for Land Rover 6HP26 Fluid Level Proceedures for step by step instructions. Don't forget to clear the codes after the fluid top off, and then check to see what codes come back afterwards. It'll likely shift rough and act strange but what you're looking for is slippage from the transmission. If your reasonably sure it's not slipping, then I'd move onto servicing.
I would steer clear of a transmission "flush" if you decide to move forward. Just do a transmission filter change where the filter is replaced and fluid topped off. You may want to consider using a BMW style flat bottom steel pan and filter assembly vs the OEM style plastic pan with the integral filter. It makes any future servicing much easier. Also, check the color of the valve body shift solenoids while the pan is off. There should be blue and yellow solenoids with one black one. If they look dark yellow and green, (colors change due to heat issues) I would replace all the solenoids including the black one. Been there, done that.
P0741 code is shift solenoid problem. This will keep the torque converter from going into lockup and cause other funky shifting problems.
Good luck!
I would steer clear of a transmission "flush" if you decide to move forward. Just do a transmission filter change where the filter is replaced and fluid topped off. You may want to consider using a BMW style flat bottom steel pan and filter assembly vs the OEM style plastic pan with the integral filter. It makes any future servicing much easier. Also, check the color of the valve body shift solenoids while the pan is off. There should be blue and yellow solenoids with one black one. If they look dark yellow and green, (colors change due to heat issues) I would replace all the solenoids including the black one. Been there, done that.
P0741 code is shift solenoid problem. This will keep the torque converter from going into lockup and cause other funky shifting problems.
Good luck!
#6
Awesome, thanks for the input. Sounds like I have a game-plan. I've read through the factory manual on this and I've found a bunch or resources on changing the pan. Thank you for the tip about the solenoids.
So if I put fluid in and the car moves on it's own power reasonably well, and then I change the fluid/pan/filter and any leaking seals it it drives fine except for strange shifting what do i do then? Take it to the dealer and have them reset my transmission? If i do that, is there any other software i should have updated?
Thanks again!
So if I put fluid in and the car moves on it's own power reasonably well, and then I change the fluid/pan/filter and any leaking seals it it drives fine except for strange shifting what do i do then? Take it to the dealer and have them reset my transmission? If i do that, is there any other software i should have updated?
Thanks again!
#7
You could have the dealer clear the trouble codes and the adaptation for the trans if you can't yourself. A GAP IID Tool can do this for you. If you plan on doing any further work on this vehicle yourself, I strongly recommend you purchase one. You may also ask the dealer to check the trans software revision as there was an update for shifting issues. Beyond that, the only way to further diagnose shifting trouble is with the GAP tool or pay the dealership or indy shop to diag any issues. Understand that most dealers or transmission shops are going to want to hook you on a replacement/rebuilt trans to minimize their exposure to comebacks. The $500 I spent on the GAP tool showed me it was the solenoids at the root of my problems that were very similar to yours, except mine would drive after the transmission "spooled" up a bit. A fluid and filter change helped, but it still shifted incorrectly. I had the software updated which really didn't change much. I connected the GAP tool to watch the solenoid voltages while driving and I could see two were not performing correctly. I decided to replace all the solenoids as they looked discolored. I suspect you may be doing the same. Good luck!
Last edited by 5280LR3; 08-10-2018 at 08:26 PM. Reason: Added adaptation clearing
#8
You could have the dealer clear the trouble codes and the adaptation for the trans if you can't yourself. A GAP IID Tool can do this for you. If you plan on doing any further work on this vehicle yourself, I strongly recommend you purchase one. You may also ask the dealer to check the trans software revision as there was an update for shifting issues. Beyond that, the only way to further diagnose shifting trouble is with the GAP tool or pay the dealership or indy shop to diag any issues. Understand that most dealers or transmission shops are going to want to hook you on a replacement/rebuilt trans to minimize their exposure to comebacks. The $500 I spent on the GAP tool showed me it was the solenoids at the root of my problems that were very similar to yours, except mine would drive after the transmission "spooled" up a bit. A fluid and filter change helped, but it still shifted incorrectly. I had the software updated which really didn't change much. I connected the GAP tool to watch the solenoid voltages while driving and I could see two were not performing correctly. I decided to replace all the solenoids as they looked discolored. I suspect you may be doing the same. Good luck!
I finally got a chance to add fluid today and put in about 1.75 quarts (I only bought two and probably spilled a quarter). Put the fluid in with the engine running and still did not fill it up so it's back to the local auto part store tomorrow. I tried going to autozone and advanced auto parts tonight, but neither had any compatible fluid (i've been putting in mercon sp).
I did drop it down to the ground after putting in the fluid and now it does move if I rev the engine enough so there is still hope!
#9
Update:
I bought another quart of fluid (the auto part store only had one) and put it in. Still not full. I put it back on the ground and drove it up and down the driveway. Transmission doesn't move the car until about 3500rpm.
So at this point do you think i should just do the fluid/pan change and see if it works or keep filling it until it is full and see what it does? Either way i am going to have to order fluid because noone around here seems to be stocking the stuff.
I am obviously going to need to fix the leak that got the transmission to this point in the first place, so are there any common leak points besides the mechatronics seals?
I bought another quart of fluid (the auto part store only had one) and put it in. Still not full. I put it back on the ground and drove it up and down the driveway. Transmission doesn't move the car until about 3500rpm.
So at this point do you think i should just do the fluid/pan change and see if it works or keep filling it until it is full and see what it does? Either way i am going to have to order fluid because noone around here seems to be stocking the stuff.
I am obviously going to need to fix the leak that got the transmission to this point in the first place, so are there any common leak points besides the mechatronics seals?