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That's the only thing I cannot do as I don't have a compressor (but should probably get one. I've inspected and there's a little rust on the bottom corners but poking with a screwdriver it doesn't look too serious. I did check with AB but it's out of stock with them at the moment. Feels like I'm all in for replacing the whole system right now!
I'll try this weekend to drop it down and at least get eyeballs on it, but it won't tell me if it's eating itself from the inside.
No more that 35k miles I’d say. I’d say I’d drop the suspension to access once a day as I parked in a low clearance garage. No sure if that constitutes excessive use but I wouldn’t have thought so.
anyway, new ride height sensors and a couple of new valve blocks hopefully see me through more than another two years.
Hi guys, im also being plagued by pretty much the same issues. One thing that has me
baffled is the Compressor Motor temp
constantly showing 11°. With my Gap iid its showing that its running AMK firmware which is the correct version. Anything else i should look into for that to
being showing incorrectly?
Last edited by yevocllessur; Dec 19, 2023 at 05:28 PM.
Reanimating an old thread in hopes somebody will see...
I've gone through most of the steps in this thread - I've got no sag and checked with soapy water on every point I could get to in order to find leaks (found one and replaced LF strut.)
At this point, I can hear the compressor chugging away until it slowly reaches about 160psi then clicks off and throws you-know-what:
C1A20-64 (AF) - Pressure increases too slow when filling reservoir - Algorithm based failure - signal plausibility failure.
I'm leaning towards a new compressor, wondering if it's also worthwhile replacing the reservoir once I'm under there and working on it.
It could be an exhaust valve leaking in the compressor. Pretty cheap and easy to service if the Hitachi compressor. Below is a just a quick search example of what is replaced:
And again, if Hitachi compressor, you can try rebuilding it by replacing the piston and cylinder block along with the desiccant beads. The beads break down and cause all sorts of issues including valve blocks that "fail" because they get powder on the or-rings and prevent proper sealing.
Basically there is some basic things you can do first. Start with dryer desiccant bead replacement and that exhaust valve kit first. Or if you dont want to bother or have time, you can certainly toss on a new compressor. OEM only unless you want more issues.