...forgot to mention I have an AMK.

 

Since this I've replaced both the compressor and the exhaust valve. I no longer get the "takes to long to fill" fault, but the day after the exhaust valve swap I started getting these:I'm arguably worse off than when I started, as the right sensor gives me the dreaded red fault.

Could this be because it needs to be calibrated? I've held off doing that because I have 2.5" Proud Rhino lift and I don't have stock rods handy. Plus, its just a lot of work to swap all 4 in and then back out.

These seem like fairly intense issues to happed over a height miscalibration, but I'm handing myself over to the mercy and wisdom of this group.

 

It sounds like you have a GAP tool, so that's good. I think you should recalibrate even with the dumb rods installed. How do you not have stock rods handy? Did you buy the rig with the modified rods already installed? If you think that it's a lot of work to swap all 4 rods in/out, I'm not sure the LR3 is the right vehicle for you!

Calibrate it, doing so is super easy now with the GAP and the "Guided Calibration" protocol....see how it goes from there.

 

You don't need to remove rods to calibrate. Just at 2.5" to the factory heights.

On an LR3/4, the fender to axle height is 465mm (18.3”) front, 485mm (19.09”)rear per factory. So just add your 2.5" to those and calibrate. I find that I have to do a few calibrations to get things dialed in because as you adjust one corner you affect them all. So if the changes are a lot, go around a few times to get it all nice and perfect.

As for those faults... yeah the calibration may resolve it but I can not say for sure.

 

Touché all the way down 🤣

 

So, it's a 63.5 mm add to what the app suggests and apply that all the way around?

 

No... you use a tape measure.

 

Right, and 2.5" is approximately 63mm, so middle wheel to fender 528mm in the front and 548mm rear.

 

Yup. It helps to put tape on the center caps and fender to make sure you are measuring the same spots each time.

 

Hi, wanted to put this in an existing thread rather than start a fresh "I'm pulling a C1A20-64 help!" thread.

Here's what I've done so far:

• Replaced FL bag (saw soapy bubbles)
• New AMK compressor
• New aftermarket middle valve block (RVH000046)

I can hear the compressor chugging away. On the GAP tool, I see the tank get anywhere from 110 to 130psi before the fault triggers and the compressor stops.

Other notes:

• Zero overnight sag
• No apparent leaks on any of the other bags
• No apparent leaks on the tank

My next thought is to replace the front and rear valve blocks, but I want to make sure that would actually contribute to the low pressure I’m seeing from the tank.

Thanks in advance for any feedback.
Chris