Howdy, new to the forums here but have been reading a ton the last few weeks.

I've crushed on Rover's for the last decade and as I'm looking at getting a second rig...they're creeping up on my radar.

Obviously it's hard to generalize without knowing a lot more about service history, but there is a 2008 LR3 SE with 139k miles on it for sale near me for $9k (usd) that I might go take a look at this weekend. So I have a couple questions from you fine folks, wiser than myself
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1. I've seen a lot of comments about "the '08 is my favorite LR3" model or "only look at '08s" - what's the story there? Best I can tell they updated something but, still not totally clear on if that's a widely held belief about the 08.
2. What are some of the potential symptoms of larger issues I might want to look out for when test driving? Knocks, air shock dates, oil on a grille, whatever might be a tell tale sign to either run or to negotiate a much lower price
3. I live in Montana so I've got mountains, dirt roads, frequently out of cell service, probably will do some car camping in the back, but also I do some solid highway miles – I know they get terrible gas mileage but other than that, any tips or words of encouragement for this mix of use?
4. HSE v SE – the model for sale says SE on the badging, but also has heated steering as well as heated front and rear seats. Could an SE have been optioned to be the same/close to the HSE? Are there any tell tale signs between trim level packages that I should know about?
5. And finally...what else should I know when looking at this rig? School me.

Cheers!

 

Hi....great questions. I'll give you the first round of answers and then others I'm sure will come fill in more details. So....why the 2008? Basically it's the latest model year that didn't have "upgrades" that pertained to the coming of the LR4. In 2009, Land Rover started experimenting with the software and also put on those goofy painted wheel arches rather than the black molded ones. So people tend to like the '08s best. Really if the mileage is similar and all the common issues have been sorted, there isn't much difference between any of the other model years. Also in 2008 you could get a premium leather package.

On a test drive. First look for leaks. Drive it to get it hot, then look under the vehicle and under the hood for leaks anywhere. That's pretty basic. Also look for water ingress, first check for that is the passenger side floorboard. Work the Electronic Air Suspension (EAS). It should raise up fairly quickly and not be too noisy. You may go all the way down to Access Height and back up to Off-road Height and see if the EAS struggles to do that. While driving at highway speed (say 40mph +) listen for humming/groaning noises. This can be a diff or T-Case or Bearing. While idling along at about 5mph briskly SNAP the brake pedal. If you hear (and sort of feel) a "clunk" sound, that's the control arm bushings.

For your item 3 above and living in MT, just make sure you have good tires. I'd throw a few parts in it that are easy to change in the field but can make a big difference in terms of getting you home. I think there are threads on this forum that have that itemized. Also a GAP IIDTool would be essential. It's more than just a code reader and I wouldn't go on a long trip without it.

The only thing that can't be had on an SE versus HSE, I think, are the upgraded stereo and the adaptive headlights. All else can be optioned in.

What else to know...hmmm. If it has a full sized spare then it might have the locking rear diff. If it has a donut then it definitely does not have the locker. You might look under the hood at the front diff breather. If it has a 90 degree bend and a large cap, then the previous owner was savvy enough to perform TSBs that others don't even know about, so they were likely an enthusiast, which is good.

I'll add to that as I go.....hope this is a good start. No, you're not an idiot, the LR3 is AWESOME!

 

139k is an odd spot maintenance wise. Odds are the front lower control arms have been done but beyond that, you need to look into. The rear uppers tend to fail - oh, by fail I mean the bushings in the arms not the arms themselves. So not a dangerous thing, per say. Also at those miles front wheel bearing may go soon. Rear wheel bearings last longer. Fronts are pretty easy to DIY, rears no so much....

Sure about heated steering? I did not think that was on an LR3 at all actually. Cause I want heated steering but I was pretty sure it involved a complex swap and mod from a different Rover.\

1 - no mechanical reason really to want 08 or such.
2 - As mentioned, water entry. Listen to the air ride compressor, make sure it is not loud. Loud could mean it will go soon.
3 - Mine is a daily driver, lots of pavement. But I do cross country trips, into Montana, that avoid pavement like the plague. They do really good on either. I camp in mine, has a fridge, 18g water, shower, water heater, etc, etc...
4 - Get what you can, remove the badges. They really dont mean much so long as it has the options you want. I will say the cubby cooler is nice to have. But if you dont get one with a cooler, you can very easily add it later.
5 - What you should know is an 08 will need work. Either now, soon or later so you should be a DIY owner. I tend to be the owner that does all my own work except fine tuned alignments and installing tires onto wheels. I also tend to do a lot of preventative maintenance. I believe its key to avoid getting stranded, especially on trips. A couple weeks ago I did my water pump for the sake of doing it at 190k miles. My pump did not show any signs of dying but I was glad I did it. Upon removal it was apparent is was just starting to leak a little. But the bigger issue was the bearing was clearly going out. So I likely dodged a bullet where it could have failed on the trial or during some point in winter were temps are well into the negatives. So really just plan to be DIY as much as you can and try to go through each system over time and bring it up to par. This method has never let me down and the truck has never stranded me.

 

With the milage I think it all depends if you are willing to work on it yourself. If not and you may be spending a lot at an independent shop.

If you are willing to work on it and the engine, transmission and transfercase all seem to be working fine with no abnormal noises or leaks and the paint and interior is good then buy it.

Most of what you will be working on is suspension, air and/or control arms and wheel bearings. All can be repaired/replaced with a modest amount of tools and research.

 

Great advice so far. As a point for comparison, I just bought an 07 with 129k miles for $5500. I don't think I got a great deal, but a fair one. Mine is an unmodified SE with packages similar to the one you are looking at. It did have the HD package and has locking rear diff. Very good exterior and interior - 1 minor ding behind passenger side rear door. Engine and EAS sound great - some droning at about 40-50 mph so likely a bearing in a diff or xfer case, but otherwise solid.

My main recommendation is to take it to a good indy shop and pay for s pre-purchase inspection - preferably the shop it has been serviced so you can get records. Mine had fairly substantial deferred maintenance, so I was able to negotiate 2k off the original asking price. My goal was to be all in for $10k, no more than $12k - thinoing its max value is just shy of $10k but my intent is to keep and drive it for a long while. I'll do most of my own work going forward, but wanted it right to start. For me, that meant brakes and rotors all around, a transmission pan and fluid change, replacing a rear wheel bearing with some play, and a front air shock that went out on the way to the shop. I've subsequently changed the spark plugs, xfer case and both diff fluids, and replaced the propshaft (center bearing carrier failing) myself. I'm a little over my planned budget, but have a vehicle that will need a diff or xfer case at some point but is otherwise solid.

Wash the LR3 if you can - will tell you if there is a water ingress issue. Mine had a leaking front cowl (into the air intake and then passenger floor).. An easy, fairly cheap fix.

Good luck hope this helps.

 

Shameless plug here, but I am selling my 2008 HSE right now. I've addressed all the common issues mentioned here. Tons of recent work. It has the center console cooler too
https://landroverforums.com/forum/market/114512

It's in Atlanta, but I'm happy to facilitate shipping.

 

My '06 SE had the heated mirrors and seats, I think that's just part of the 'cold weather package'

Test drive, listen for the typical stuff. Grinding/squealing from the brakes, ticking or feeling underpowered from the motor, clunks or hard shifts, any clunks when taking a bump = needs control arm bushings. Obviously look under the hood and under the truck for any leaks with it running in park, and look on the ground where it was parked, you can wipe away leaks but the pavement will still show it. Look at the exhaust (white smoke usually means coolant is burning, blue usually means oil, I'd run from either). Check the front floor carpets for wetness or staining from prior wetness from water leaks.

In terms of your mix, they're perfect for that. That's how I used my LR3. Constantly drove it up in the white mountains in NH, even blew my bleeder T up there and it got my home 3 hours away on a side of the road hacked fix. Its a great camping rig, Im 6' and with the middle seats folded flat I car camped and slept like a bed without having to make myself fit. It also took me across the country without a single hiccup, including up and over The Rockies and down to the bottom of Death Valley at 125*

Things to look for to get an idea of if it was maintained well or not are: look at the front diff breather under the hood (front drivers corner of it) and make sure it has a 90* bend. That's the new style that doesnt let moisture into the pumpkin. Sniff the oil cap to see if it smells burnt, same for the coolant reservoir. Obviously a service history would be best. Check if the transmission pan is metal, if so it's probably the new style pan and filter and has fresher tranny fluid.

If you buy it, I'd budget an extra ~$1k personally for peace of mind maintenance items. Namely swapping the transmission pan for the upgraded metal one plus fresh fluid. The kit is $300 from Atlantic British (including fluid) and expect to pay around $500 for a shop to do the work. Also replace the bleeder T in the coolant hose that goes over the throttle body ($10 part, 5 min in the driveway) and PCV ($30-$50 part, also 5 minutes, just 2 screws). New A-pillar cover clips ($10), new sunroof drain elbows ($10 but the passenger side is a PITA to do, driver's side is easy)

All in all, I wouldn't hesitate to pick up one with those miles as long as it isn't beat to s**t. I'd also try to talk him down to $7500-$8000.

About the only thing that's more of a goat in the snow would be a Disco 2. On my LR3 I ran Nokian Rotiiva AT tires (road AT tires that also have the snow/ice snowflake) and can honestly say I drove through 12"+ of snow in multiple blizzards without even a slip. It just freight trains through the stuff

 

If I didn't live all the way up in Montana...

 

Awesome, thanks for the insight. I'm currently reading plenty of other posts on the subject but, while I have this convo going - any personal insight on preference between a late-LR3 and an early-LR4?

The 2015 and newer LR4s are almost all beyond what I want to pay for an original purchase price on a used LR, but it's hard not to see the minor price difference between a late model LR3 and and early model LR4 as a potential crossover. I must say I like the interior look and layout more in the LR4, but I am also reading lots of votes for the LR3 in terms of sheer reliability.

Also, living in Montana the sheer volume of vehicles for sale are a bit more limited, so if there is in fact a crossover without any giant red flag reasons to stick with one or the other, particularly for a first time Landy owner, then it opens up my shopping ability as well.

I should also add that I have a good, indy/private mechanic as well as being more than willing to do work myself. Although I do tend to push jobs over to him since he only keeps a small client base and charges good rates. Though if I can find a LR that works for me, I want to put more energy into doing things myself so that I'm more knowledgeable out in the backcountry as well – if any of that moves the needle more towards an LR3 v LR4?

 

Personally I wouldn't touch an LR4 with the V8 unless it's documented as having the timing chain guides and tensioners replaced (a roughly $3k-$5k job). The 5.0 has a known problem of eating them up and subsequently causing major damages.