I’m about ready to burn this piece of eu crap!
last month I paid $1000.00 to get the left air shock replaced, been working great until I jacked the front up to replace the rotors replaced. A week later( because of work) I went to crank it . All four corners down. The front won’t lift up, I’ve tried jack the front up a little as someone mentioned, removed the battery cable ,checked fuses.i don’t know where to start looking help me before I burn this great lr3

 

Need a lot more info.

What does the truck say in the message center? Any dash icons lit? How long is the compressor running? Do you have lift rods?

 

...you just aren't accustomed to a its nuances. Do some research and figure out the problem. Fix it, love on your Rover, and it will love you back. It isn't like other vehicles.

PS - sounds like you have an air leak. Not a big deal...chill the **** out. Sorry for the vulgarity, I've been drinkin'.

 

Bit over the top for one strut replacement. Is compressor running, if so get some soapy water and go round all connectors and tank. But like has been said, what codes are showing up as this will give us a clue.

 

Ok I’ll try to give more info BTW thanks for replying.
1. After been off overnight all four corners down
2. Crank it up
3. Compressor comes on runs probably two or three minutes
4. Rear raises up front is still on bottom
5. No codes on cluster. then after a while cluster says vehicle raising slow
6. Compressor shuts off cluster says will run after cooled off
7. The LR3 thinks the front end is up to correct height
8. Tomorrow I’m going to soap up the front equal valve maybe a hose is off.
? Is there a solenoid valve on the air tank to direct air pressure to front /rear?

 

There is a valve block behind the front bumper which control the front air bags. You say system thinks it is at the correct height but have you measured it. If compressor runs till it gets hot, you have an air leak.

 

Sounds like a system that was never maintained. If the front and rear are down there are likely issues with the valve blocks, typically caused by the compressor dryer going well past its life expectancy. This causes small particles to get into the lines and onto the o-rings that do the sealing inside the valve blocks. Therefore air can slowly get around the seals and into the main gallery which is not necessarily air tight. You can also pull the fuses for the system because it will attempt to self-level after 2 hours of sitting then again at 6 hours. If the reservoir has leaked down, the system may inadvertently dump the struts into the main galley causing it to drop in height. I dont think when its in sleep mode there are any checks to prevent issues like this, no faults, so it just does what its told. So get it up as best you can, pull a fuse for a night.

There are three valve blocks.
Front
Center
Rear

The front and rear valve blocks basically seal off the front or rear air struts from the main gallery. The main gallery it just the air lines that make up the bulk of the system. Like I said before, the main gallery is not necessarily air tight and that is okay, it is even vented out just before the compressor fires up or it is fighting air pressure and will have a hard time starting. So if either block is leaking, this can cause the drop problem.

The center valve block only acts as a valve for the main reservoir tank. The tank is normally sealed from the main gallery by the center valve block and should hold its supply until needed. Its pressure is not monitored but there is a pressure sensor in the center block for measuring main gallery pressure since the main gallery also runs through the center block. Basically the compressor's air supply feeds directly to the center block and from there is goes front and back but its not controlled by a valve, its basically an open manifold to connector the lines. If the one valve in the center valve block is leaking to the main reservoir tank, then tank pressure can of course slowly dump into the main gallery and leak out.

Main gallery pressure can drop fast if the dryer cap is cracked, this is a common problem with the old plastic ones. The crack can be bad enough that even with the normal, tiny leaks of the main gallery the crack causes the compressor to have to work longer to get air into the system. Like a hole in a straw. This will of course aid in the compressor dying fast.

All three valve blocks can be rebuilt for about $24.00. Its just a very nice o-ring set. The dryer can be rebuilt for less than $100 and some kits come with a new metal cap to take care of that issue.

In your case I suspect an old dryer that has dumped particle into the system causing your issues. Possibly a cracked dryer cap also which means the compressor is not getting all of its air into the system further hampering it. This can also happen is a small exhaust valve fails ($20 rubber plunger). But it should error out, that is the odd part. And while the rear is commanded to raise first the front should raise almost in tandem. This could imply a bigger problem with the front valve block. But again, that should result in an error. Does the system, once cooled down, fire up again to get the front up? If a hose was off (unlikely) then you would hear it.

Soap the front valve block. But I would also remove the lower compressor cover and soap the dryer cap (large black thing with two lines) including the hard to see location where the dryer connect to the compressor.

Knowing what I know about the air system I would probably rebuild the compressor, including the dryer, and rebuild the center valve block. I would wait a week or so to get some of the old particles to blow through the system then I would rebuild the front and rear valve blocks and probably open the center block for a quick cleaning of the o-rings.

 

Thanks for all the info, I have worried with this thing until I just had to walk away from it. Today I removed the right front fender guard and checked the front valve. I have pressure but very small amount of pressure, so I removed the compressor cover and I have plenty of pressure. My thinking is my dryer is clogged up. Does this sound right to you?

 

How did you check the pressure at the front valve? There would be three separate pressures there, one for each bag and main gallery pressure.

And how did you check pressure at the compressor, as it runs? Or did you pull a line, if so which one?

If the rear goes up the dryer is not clogged. Also if the dryer was clogged the vehicle would generate a logic fault because things would not raise as fast as they should. Plus the dryer really just does not get clogged, its massive and would have to be full of water and frozen for it to clog in any way.

 

You’re right Dakota Travler the dryer isn’t clogged I said that before I watched a video on replacing the compressor. I pulled the air line off the blue connector at the dryer and had lots of pressure. When I removed the air line on the front valve body that goes to the right air shock I had very little air coming out and hardly any pressure. I replaced the front valve body a couple of months ago.