The rear goes up first a ways, that is normal. And if the rear was low and the reservoir not full then the air in the reservoir was likely used up making the last bit of raising only being driven by the compressor which is much slower. Since the bags are new, they wont have much air. So it will take a couple cycles to get it up. Perfectly normal. If it takes more than four cycles, then you may have an issue with a leak. So just be patient. Let it cool down for a bit and try again.

 

I did what you said and it seems to be working now. Thank you, I was freaking out a bit at the time and you helped a lot. Got it set to off road hight with fuse pulled and measurements take. Hopefully it holds overnight.

At standard ride hight, the front is sitting about 3/4 of an inch above the 18.3 inch factory setting that I torqued the control arm nut too. Should I recalibrate to factory? Not sure if that little bit will affect the bushing. On another note, I just measured the rears and at off road hight, one side is about a quarter inch different than the other so might not hurt either way.

 

The stock heights are 18.3" (465mm) in front, as mentioned, and 19.09" (485) in the rear. At off-road height you will find that the rear end goes up a little more than the front and with access height the rear will be lower. Basically a raise to off-road does not mean the front and rear go up 2" exactly, it is not proportionate by design.

Anyway, those are the target heights so if you are on very flat ground and not at those value then a calibration is always a good idea.

 

Ok, I'm trying to not get frustrated here. After I completed replacing the struts, and followed Dakota Travelers advice on letting it go through a few cycles, the suspension worked great. I put it off road height, pulled the fuse, and let it sit overnight. Next morning it had not dropped, not even a little! Later in the evening, it looked like to me that front might be sagging again in relation to the back. So I started up and let the suspension raise to standard height (I forgot to put it in off road but don't see how that would make a difference), pulled the fuse and let it sit overnight again. Went out this morning and the front had sagged a couple inches.

So, it worked and then it didn't work. I highly doubt these struts are defective. I got the Dunlop from LR Parts.net so should be in good shape there. The only thing I can think at this point is either I messed something up during the install or my rebuild job on the front valve block didn't work. I'm tempted just to buy a new valve block.

Thoughts on next steps?

 

Valve block replacement only works if the desiccant in the compressor dryer has been replaced and it’s degraded remains purged from the lines by cleaning or time.

The desiccant is pretty much the only thing that causes valve block issues. It breaks downs and but somehow get past the filter and end up on the valve block orings. A tiny spec can cause a leak. Think what a small hole does to a drinking straw.

Generally I recommend rebuilding valve blocks only after the compressor has been replaced or new desiccant installed. And then still wait a couple weeks or so for remains to settle out of the lines if they were not cleaned. And when rebuilding the blocks, no lubricants are to be used.

Does any of the above apply to your case?

 

Tks. I replaced the compressor last year so it's been a while. I rebuilt the valve block a couple months ago but was a little concerned about the quality of the rebuild kit. So much so that I reused some of the o-rings that still looked good.

 

I put the truck in off road height, pulled fuse, and left overnight. This morning it had only lost 3/8th of an inch. I will try the same tonight but so far it's looking like the air loss in somewhat variable.

 

Keep in mind a little lowering can be normal simply due to the compressed air in the struts cooling overnight. Also there are instances where the contaminants on the valve block seals can blow through on their own. Long ago I had a pretty bad contamination issue and my lowering overnight or not issue was super random.

 

Thank you Dakota. I’ll bet that’s the issue. I’ve left it overnight with the fuse pulled at off road hight twice and both times I didn’t lose more than 3/8”. I’ve also left it at standard height with the fused pulled twice and lost 2” both times. Its almost like the higher pressure helps seal something off.

im thinking of either rebuilding that valve block again or just replacing with a new one, as much as i hate to spend the money. If I go new, im guessing the cheap ones on Amazon are not the way to go. Would appreciate your opinion on next steps and if you agree on replacing the valve block.

 

I would rebuild again, full in depth rebuild of all orings. A lot cheaper than a new block. You can always consider a used block on eBay too and take a gamble.