Finally got my code reader for a LR. It showed a few codes:

1. Control module, so I replaced it today. That cleared this code HOWEVER now it says Control module-VIN something rather. We also now get the "don't exceed 30mph" warning. Occasionally now we also are able to use the switch for ride height settings but sometimes that locks out. It seems the module needs to match VIN to the vehicle ECU or something? Gawddd Land Rover what were you thinking.... Still at all times the red suspension light is on just after the key is turned, even with the engine off. That alone really makes me think it's sensor related as the vehicle knows about the issue before any pressure changes occur. No idea though.

2. Pressure increases too slow when filling reservoir. I can see the tank pressure drop a couple psi a second leaking slower and lower until 100psi where it leaks 1 psi every 10 seconds or so. I've sprayed along the frame, into and out of every connection and box I could find. I sprayed the shocks, they seem to hold decently, it only looses an inch or so all around over the course of 24-48 hrs, I suspect if it's a shock leak, it's a reasonably slow one. Too slow to be causing these errors.

Good about being able to drive around with the fuse pulled at least.

Only other light on the dash is the brake in amber which is related to the two rear brake pad sensors apparently which, from what I'm reading I can just jumper and force the light to go out. Stupid indication system IMO anyway.

Thoughts?

 

...a new compressor and fresh calibration along with a new EAS ride height switch will fix you right up.

 

Looks like my compressor is an AMK from 2013 (my vehicle is 2006) so it's not that old. Do you think it's probably still gone bad?

Today I received my 59 dollar ODBII bluetooth reader that does calibration and every landrover specific function I can think of! I can't believe it works this well for the money, I thought I was going to have to spend $530 on a gap tool which is a total rip off imo. It shows way more than my $200 dollar rover specific scanner does. Says calibrate under the suspension category so I'll take your advice and try that today. The only code that is present at all times now is that VIN mismatch on the EAS computer that I got used off another member.

I don't have a ride height switch but I can get them.

-Greg

 

Age of compressor is too variable. Its more about use and abuse than anything really. Even climate impacts em (severe hot/cold or humidity even with a dryer).

Where did you get the reader for that price? Thats a good deal. Can it customize the vehicle config file? Program keys? Can it do software updates?

 

Hmm understood. Sure, that makes sense.

Some good news!!! I at first thought I roasted my replacement EAS ecu but I used the reader to go to from "manufacturer" mode to "normal" mode. It got rid of my red EAS light! When the compressor over-heats twice it will kick into manufacturer mode and you get a red light that won't go away until those mode is exited, clearing it won't help. I still have a brake light sensor left because of the rear brake sensors needing to be replaced but otherwise I'm code free! I didn't even have to calibrate the suspension though I was minutes away from doing so with it, glad I didn't.

HOWEVER..... I still have a compressor that runs forever and a slow leak in the front box behind the bumper, when I spray soap into the compressor feed line, a very slow bubble forms. I've a $60 dollar replacement I found on amazon to replace it tomorrow since cleaning all 11 o-rings didn't fix it. Sadly I still have this issue of the compressor that runs until it over-heats. What should the gallery pressure be? I see my pressure does leak down. It gets up to over 210psi before overheating sometimes, seems very high!

It loads the config file, has real time change logging and some other features related to vehicle config but I don't know about it's ability to change the profile. It does have Key specific functions, haven't tested them but it specifically lists buttons to program keys and earse keys as well as PCM replacement etc.. Haven't played with any updates either but since I've only one FOB i'll find out about the keys soon.

It lists the following under "service"
- Oil reset
-EPB
-TPMS (this fixed my tpms issue)
-BMS
-Brake Bleed
-DPF
-Immo Keys
-Injector
-SAS
-Suspension
-Throttle
-Win Dr Roof
-Seats
-Odometer
-Headlamp
-Chg Tire size

The reader is amazing! autel AP200. Here's an amazon link to it. It works for one brand, I got the land rover so that lasts indefinitely. However you can add other brands to it but each will be 20 bucks a year. Bummer that they aren't good forever, I'd buy every major brand for it right now if it were the case.

So glad I didn't drop over 500 bucks on a gap tool that only works for one VIN. I'll provide some screenshots of the screens this thing has, I'm thoroughly impressed so far.

Thanks again everyone who's helping with this so far!

-Greg

 

UPDATE!!!

As of right now my system is "fixed". In truth, I've got everything cleared I think except for a very slow 48hr leak and a compressor that gets up to pressure too slowly but it still does the job. To help it along to 250psi I put a strong fan on it and let it run, it made it to pressure before the over-heat. The fan I used was from one of thos kids jumper toys for the backyard, VERY high volume blower. With the cover cracked open on the open road maybe that would even suffice.

So, I've got a new compressor off amazon for $200 bucks. I'll install that and see what I get. Then in the meantime I'll tear down my AMK and check out it's dryer and see if maybe that's the issue, then rebuild the pump side as able/needed. The rear block or central blocks could be culprits for the slow leaks. I don't think it's my shocks after spraying them but I'm not absolutely sure.

UPDATE>>>>> New compressor for 200 bucks looks to be an identical unit to the AMK main body with slightly different fittings that work just as well. This pump brings it up to pressure slightly faster and it's slightly quieter too. Not too bad of a fix. I still have a very slow leak somewhere but it only drops an inch or so all corners over the course of a couple days. Not terrible I guess. Bear in mind I bought this vehicle a week ago for $500 bucks so I'm trying to keep the investment costs cheap. I can't imagine this thing will live many years since it now has over 200k miles.

-Greg

 

FIXED! Front block was leaking, replaced it with amazon unit for 50 bucks. No more drop.
Compressor from Amazon for $200 bucks (looks to be exactly the AMK unit at less than half price) and works great, much quieter and faster.
Manufacture mode was my EAS ECU issue, I didn't know that mode kicked in after numerous over-heats of the original compressor, I replaced it for no reason it turns out. To remove that mode I needed the special BT unit for 60 bucks on amazon that seems to do everything the $540 dollar gap tool does. I simply took it out of that mode and put it in normal mode and the Red light went to amber, this allowed me to see the real faults such as compressor too slow and over-heating.

Done deal. This $500 dollar LR3 problem has been solved, great deal. Many thanks to everyone for their input here and direction.

-Greg