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Alternator not putting out proper voltage

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Old Jul 18, 2019 | 11:18 PM
  #11  
COSPILOT's Avatar
Rock Crawling
Joined: Jun 2017
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From: Colorado Springs
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I feel like you have spent more in labor on this what new would cost. Unless you don't value your time or reliability. I put a new one in, not worth my time to experiment.
 
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Old Jul 20, 2019 | 11:35 PM
  #12  
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Recovery Vehicle
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From: La Jolla, California
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Well. I put in a new alternator. Still showing 12.7 to 12.8 volts. Is there a relay or some other limiter of some sort. I am stumped. Serpentine belt is routed correctly, cable is properly connected. Plug is well seated. Brand new interstate battery. Thanks. Phil
 
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Old Jul 21, 2019 | 08:06 PM
  #13  
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Recovery Vehicle
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From: La Jolla, California
Default My truck is possessed.

I hate this truck. I pulled the battery. Removed and cleaned the negative battery cable. Reinstalled the negative cable. Reinstalled battery. Started vehicle. Parking brake is on. Transfer case in in low. A mountain image is flashing on the dash. A yellow brake light is on. The center console highway and mountain lights are flashing. Truck won’t raise or lower. Doesn’t shift well. Top speed about 40. I would drive it into the ocean but I am not sure that it will go the one-half mile to get there. I am at an impasse. I must have pulled something loose. What I have no clue. I need to dig out a wiring diagram for the wires behind the battery. Pray for me. Arrrrgh. Phil
 
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Old Jul 21, 2019 | 08:59 PM
  #14  
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Camel Trophy
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: North of Seattle
Default Ummm...

....maybe just take it to the dealer?....or Abran.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2019 | 11:27 PM
  #15  
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Rock Crawling
Joined: Jul 2019
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From: Londonderry NSW AU
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The problem is that we are always in a hurry to fix things instead of taking our time. Why is transfer case in low? I would start at square one - remove battery, while its out put it on charge to make sure it is good, check all connectors around battery box especially the ones at the rear of the box as they control many things. Check the positive cable from the alternator via the starter to the battery as it is known to short on the front diff housing. Check any connectors that may have got nudged whilst doing other things, take your time and check carefully, a connector not fully home will cause lots of problems. Sometimes cleaning connections with a cleaner helps.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2019 | 11:07 AM
  #16  
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From: La Jolla, California
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Does anyone have the wiring diagram for a 2006 Range Rover Sport HSE 4.4. I thought that it was save on my desktop, but I had my computer replaced and the files seem to have been deleted.....I really need Abran about 80 miles closer, or he needs to make a weekend trip to San Diego.......hint.......Phil
 
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Old Jul 22, 2019 | 10:42 PM
  #17  
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Rock Crawling
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From: Colorado Springs
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Is this the link you are looking for? https://workshop-manuals.com/landrover/
 
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Old Jul 23, 2019 | 02:09 PM
  #18  
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Baja
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From: Huntington Beach CA
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what diagrams do you need?
 
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Old Jul 28, 2019 | 01:01 AM
  #19  
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Rock Crawling
Joined: May 2019
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From: Red Deer, AB
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Hi folks...
Just trolling through the posts while thinking about my engine replacement woes, and it occurred to me that about 90% of electrical problems are due to poor grounding connections, so perhaps that is worth a try...
 
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Old Sep 8, 2020 | 02:57 PM
  #20  
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Three Wheeling
Joined: May 2019
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From: Costa Mesa, CA
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Going to chime in here even though this is an old thread.

I had a similar issue with my alternator. After the first one failed, I put a reman Denso in and everything appeared fine. Over the course of several days, my GAP tool shows battery voltage was slowly dropping from 14.2 to 13.9 to 13.5 and on and on until it hit around 12.8V. At that point, my dash lit up like a Christmas tree. I had a friend jump me and charge the battery up, which removed the errors on the dash.

I put another Denso reman the next day and it was giving me the same problem. I couldn't figure out what was going on. As the truck ran, I noticed a clicking noise coming from the relays / battery area. Upon closer inspection, it looked as if the battery Ground was arcing. I did notice the little metal U latch underneath the screw that locks the Ground cable to the battery post was not sitting flush (it was perpendicular). Once I resat the Ground cable on the battery, the truck began operating normally between 13.8V and 14.2V.

So moral of the story: check your grounds.
 
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