Another Aux/Bluetooth thread.
Wasn’t sure where to post this because there are so many Bluetooth threads already. However, I couldn’t find this exact workaround anywhere and it didn’t seem appropriate to add it to the Bluetooth module sticky thread.
I followed the directions from a Reddit post to add a $12 bluetooth module, spliced into the rear aux wiring, in order to get bluetooth music from phones.
the best part is it’s cheap, 3.5mm jacks still works, and the LR phone Bluetooth still works (it has precedence over aux signal)
reddit thread:
https://www.reddit.com/r/LandRover/comments/906n2k/would_anyone_with_a_rover_that_has_the_aux_jack/?utm_source=embedv2&utm_medium=post_embed&utm_cont ent=post_body&embed_host_url=https://www.landroverworld.org/threads/how-to-add-bluetooth-etc-to-2006-lr3-hse.43918/
I ended up taking out the center console storage bin for access during install. This is the best alternative for Bluetooth that I’ve come across.
I followed the directions from a Reddit post to add a $12 bluetooth module, spliced into the rear aux wiring, in order to get bluetooth music from phones.
the best part is it’s cheap, 3.5mm jacks still works, and the LR phone Bluetooth still works (it has precedence over aux signal)
reddit thread:
https://www.reddit.com/r/LandRover/comments/906n2k/would_anyone_with_a_rover_that_has_the_aux_jack/?utm_source=embedv2&utm_medium=post_embed&utm_cont ent=post_body&embed_host_url=https://www.landroverworld.org/threads/how-to-add-bluetooth-etc-to-2006-lr3-hse.43918/
I ended up taking out the center console storage bin for access during install. This is the best alternative for Bluetooth that I’ve come across.
I did this too - agree best audio solution
My board had an Aux Input spot, so I got an extra AUX jack and soldered that in, popped right into the old stock port
Scavenged internals made room for the board - looks OEM from the back seat
Works great - but I joined both grounds, and may add a rocker switch on 1 instead, to mimic the on/off grounding of the stock port to trigger rear jacks/audio/video screen
(if I am thinking about that function correctly)
My board had an Aux Input spot, so I got an extra AUX jack and soldered that in, popped right into the old stock port
Scavenged internals made room for the board - looks OEM from the back seat
Works great - but I joined both grounds, and may add a rocker switch on 1 instead, to mimic the on/off grounding of the stock port to trigger rear jacks/audio/video screen
(if I am thinking about that function correctly)
Dakota, if you end up getting your GMRS radio to work via Bluetooth through your car speakers write up a post on it! That would be an amazing feature.
I assume your GMRS is a base station with hand held mic?
I assume your GMRS is a base station with hand held mic?
Last edited by lenzda; Sep 12, 2023 at 12:29 PM.
I have the Midland GMRS radio. I do not necessarily want it on bluetooth, but I want this module to duck down music when someone calls on GMRS so I can hear them. I like music on my trail rides but cant play it much when in a group or I miss coms because right now both my iPhone music and GMRS input to the aux so they play at the same time.
And I will add, this is the board I got, version 4.1 contrary to eBay images in the ad. Keep in mind that Redit thread is very old. This may not be the same board, or it could be the latest revision. All I know is this particular board had rave reviews about audio quality over similar boards that had clipping issues. On a side note... I have my GMRS radio wired right into AUX and always had an issue when turning it on, my amp would cut out and audio playing would distort for a while. Similar when turning off. Was not until recently I realized the Midland Radio phono out is speaker level, not line level. I think it was overpowering the amp. I yet another module to install that will drop that speak output to line level.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/201501624721
https://www.ebay.com/itm/201501624721
That’s the same board I picked up…looks like you got a better deal.
I’m not much of an electrician or electrical circuit master and the description of the boards are barely coherent. If you can figure out a away for yours to work like you described I’d be interested.
I’m not much of an electrician or electrical circuit master and the description of the boards are barely coherent. If you can figure out a away for yours to work like you described I’d be interested.
Hello - I've been following this thread with interest as I try to figure out better audio and phone for our 2006 LR3.
Ha - I'll spare you the entire drama of talking to my local "world-experts-in-car-audio" who led me to believe I could throw in a new double-DIN head unit with CarPlay—until I got the right person who told me, categorically, that you basically can't with the fiber-optic H-K MOST audio system. No bad news here, really—I learned a lot about how the car works, and won't have to alter the design of the console with an after-market unit. Good news is we've realized the right answer is to keep the high-tech in the phone, use the factory H-K audio and speaker system. (Ha-although I'm just seeing that NaviPlus makes an analog-to-digital convertor to allow a modern head unit to be installed?)
Sorry - here's my question. The BT 4.0 board referenced above seems to do the trick. I've read the old Reddit post. Would a BT 5.0 be an advisable upgrade? This one, for example.
It's a few dollars more, no big deal. BT 5.0 is better, right? Quicker connection, better sound.
I know *nothing* about Bluetooth tech other than using it everyday in the plug 'n play manner. The references to "clipping" and "separate power supply" go over my head.
Anyway from those who might know more than me in this regard, I'd appreciate your thoughts.
Thanks!
👇 on edit 👇I'm noticing the board linked above is also an *amplifier*. THIS ONE seems a closer match to the 4.0 board discussed upthread. And suspiciously dirt cheap.
Ha - I'll spare you the entire drama of talking to my local "world-experts-in-car-audio" who led me to believe I could throw in a new double-DIN head unit with CarPlay—until I got the right person who told me, categorically, that you basically can't with the fiber-optic H-K MOST audio system. No bad news here, really—I learned a lot about how the car works, and won't have to alter the design of the console with an after-market unit. Good news is we've realized the right answer is to keep the high-tech in the phone, use the factory H-K audio and speaker system. (Ha-although I'm just seeing that NaviPlus makes an analog-to-digital convertor to allow a modern head unit to be installed?)
Sorry - here's my question. The BT 4.0 board referenced above seems to do the trick. I've read the old Reddit post. Would a BT 5.0 be an advisable upgrade? This one, for example.
It's a few dollars more, no big deal. BT 5.0 is better, right? Quicker connection, better sound.
I know *nothing* about Bluetooth tech other than using it everyday in the plug 'n play manner. The references to "clipping" and "separate power supply" go over my head.
Anyway from those who might know more than me in this regard, I'd appreciate your thoughts.
Thanks!
👇 on edit 👇I'm noticing the board linked above is also an *amplifier*. THIS ONE seems a closer match to the 4.0 board discussed upthread. And suspiciously dirt cheap.
Last edited by chakadog; Jan 7, 2024 at 12:05 PM.


