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Depends on how the suspension fails. But assuming it is the compressor, you need a 6mm push connect coupler and a thin inflator adapter for ***** - not the needle adapter used for basketballs. Anyway, ya stick the adapter in the push connect then you disconnect an air line and connect this adapter you made. Now you can inflate with a tire compressor. The compressor can not be some cheap one, has to be able to reach like 150psi. But you also need the GAP tool and basically fire up the compressor then go into the GAP tool and do a calibration of the suspension - this basically lets you control all the valves easily and let the compressor fill one corner at a time. I have done this before, which is how I figured out how to make this actually work. I am sure they are other ways, but this allowed my friends rig to gain enough height to get off the trails.
I get the 6mm push connect coupler. I don't know what you're calling a "thin inflator adapter for *****". Maybe you could link ... ? The rest of what you're saying I think makes sense.
You disconnect the air line, push the connector onto the strut air fitting, connect a line to the 6mm connector with schrader valve to air up the strut with your compressor? Sound about right?
This thing. Just push into the push-connect and the internal catch will grab onto and seal just fine. Really if you want to get fancy you can even just get a push-connect T-fitting with a schrader valve and leave it installed alter time I suppose, BUT it would have be rated for at least 250psi, the max operating pressure of the system. When doing the emergency procedure I described you never really even hit 150psi, so the fittings can hold up fine. FYI I disconnect the line leaving the compressor dryer in order to connect the external tire compressor and then fill each strut.
I just did the liner heat gun mod and it doesn't gain you much space, there is only one small area that you gain reshape. I have 265/65/18 Wildpeaks and they don't rub anywhere, only reason i had the mod the liner was because my ARB bar meant the washer bottle was sitting too far back so the liner wasn't contained correctly.
What's the point of the liner heat-gun mod? Once you flatten the metal behind that plastic bulge, who cares if a tire rubs there?
@DakotaTravler I run the same size tire...Coopers, which are a little larger than other brands, but I don't see how you can have "no rubbing" unless you mean just driving around on the streets.... but even then in Access Height there is gonna be some. No way anyone is backing into an inclined driveway at full lock in Access Height and not rubbing 275/65R18s. Not stock, anyway.
The wiring harness.... definitely needs to be relocated if you wheel your LR3...even then I ripped mine down a few years ago and re-secured it with stainless steel mesh and zip-ties.
What's the point of the liner heat-gun mod? Once you flatten the metal behind that plastic bulge, who cares if a tire rubs there?
@DakotaTravler I run the same size tire...Coopers, which are a little larger than other brands, but I don't see how you can have "no rubbing" unless you mean just driving around on the streets.... but even then in Access Height there is gonna be some. No way anyone is backing into an inclined driveway at full lock in Access Height and not rubbing 275/65R18s. Not stock, anyway.
The wiring harness.... definitely needs to be relocated if you wheel your LR3...even then I ripped mine down a few years ago and re-secured it with stainless steel mesh and zip-ties.
Behind the bulge is chassis so you aint budging that, why would you want your tyres to rub ? annoying as hell and will cause edge wear.
Most of the D3s there have the V6 brake system. They mention the brake package as part of the sales selection, so if you order from them make sure they know you have a 4.4 petrol V8. (that is IF you have a petrol V8)
From thier web site:
*If you have the SCV6, don't worry, we have you covered with the TuffAnt Alloys which are available now. They look great, perform great, and importantly, fit your car! Unfortunately none of the late model Supercharged V8s will fit 18" wheels and for Defender P400 fitment brake modifications are necessary
Jeff
What's the point of the liner heat-gun mod? Once you flatten the metal behind that plastic bulge, who cares if a tire rubs there?
@DakotaTravler I run the same size tire...Coopers, which are a little larger than other brands, but I don't see how you can have "no rubbing" unless you mean just driving around on the streets.... but even then in Access Height there is gonna be some. No way anyone is backing into an inclined driveway at full lock in Access Height and not rubbing 275/65R18s. Not stock, anyway.
The wiring harness.... definitely needs to be relocated if you wheel your LR3...even then I ripped mine down a few years ago and re-secured it with stainless steel mesh and zip-ties.
Which wiring harness are you referring to houm_wa?
That's the wiring harness from the driver's side front height sensor that is mounted to the frame rail and goes to the compressor.
@loanrangie Yes different area. That's a pic of how I re-routed the height sensor wiring. As for the bulge in the rear wheel well, after I removed the lining and pounded the chassis join flange flat with a Blacksmith Hammer (and hit it with primer just to be safe) there is nothing behind the plastic bulge to rub on anymore.
The reason not to do the heat gun thing is that a guy like me would probably melt a massive hole in the lining or otherwise have it looking like a Kindergartener's melted crayons after they left them out in the sun for three hours.
