Trying to make sure I've properly prepped this 2007 LR3 HSE now with 107,500 miles. Purchased with 104,900 miles in February with intent for my daughter to take to college. She'll be 1,200 miles away, so not just a day trip to help her out of a bind. She's not an off-roader (yet), but she'll be where there are plenty of places to explore. I would certainly appreciate any suggestions of things I've missed to help keep her trouble free until next summer. Thanks!

Done:
Repaired suspension compressor
Replaced front air struts
Cleaned front air block
Replaced all front bushings and ball joints
Replaced hood lift struts
Programmed and cut a second key
Cabin filter
Engine Air filter
Wiper blades
Tensioners and belts
Coolant hoses
Water pump, fresh coolant
Thermostat housing
A/C Compressor, Condenser, and Climate Control Module
A/C blower motor
Cluster repair
VVT gears to correct cold-start knock
Oil filter housing gasket
Brake light switch
Cleaned throttle body, new gaskets
Replaced broken driver's side mirror
Trans metal pan conversion, fluid, valve body seals, and solenoids
Replaced shift linkage parts
Installed trailer wiring adapter harness
Bought an Ebay Land Rover hitch adapter
New head unit with hands-free stuff
Good phone holder
5 new TPMS sensors (Autel MX-1)
New spare tire
Rear pads, rotors, park brake shoes
Denso reman alternator
Wheel alignment
Front/Rear diff and transfer case fluid

To do:
Flush power steering
Bleed brakes
New spare tire hoist
Fresh oil before she goes

 

looks like she will have a "new" LR3
nice work

. . . has the PCV valve, Front Diff Breather, or Coolant Bleeder T ever been changed?
. . . how new is the battery?
. . . and send some extra OEM brake light bulbs with her

but don't worry - the 1 thing you didn't think of will present itself shortly after she arrives at school
:-P

 

Previous owner had a fairly new battery and had replaced the bleeder T with a brass fitting.

I did do the PCV and front diff breather, but forgot to log them in my spreadsheet.

Good call on the brake lamps! I’m betting on maybe a week for the first problem.

 

...do you happen to need a new BFF? 😁

 

Wow! That’s comprehensive!

I’d add air compressor dryer desiccant change and aluminum air dryer cap ($80 kit), and rebuild the front, rear, and exhaust valve blocks (o-ring kit, $20). Combined with what you’ve done that will keep the air system happy for several years.

edit: two more:
1) emergency release retrofit for the tailgate actuator
2) inexpensive diagnostic tool for reading codes to send to dad and clearing CEL before coming home on breaks 😁

nice work, dad!

 

Air compressor is new from previous owner...that's when they gave up on it. It had a stuck exhaust valve when I got it, but fine since unsticking it.
I disassembled and cleaned the front air block while waiting on a backordered new one. I now have a new one, but I no longer have a sagging suspension so I plan to keep it as a spare. I'm afraid to mess with the rear and center blocks that are currently working great.
While installing a rear camera, I confirmed that the tailgate actuator has been replaced at least once. I did buy a spare actuator before I found out it was already done. I do like the idea of that mechanical release. It's worth a deeper look.

I have used the Blue Driver scan tool on a bunch of different cars and have equipped my son with one while he's also far away in college with a 170,000+ mile BMW 335i. It has been very helpful on several occasions. On the LR3, the Blue Driver only scans/resets OBD codes, no additional modules. I saw mention of a basic Autel unit that looks reasonable. I hate to spend the money on a Gap tool just for quick scans. My big Autel MS906BT does great with the LR3, but it won't program certain things like AMK vs Hitachi compressor, update pcm or tcm software, or configure trailer hitch options. But you're right, she needs a basic scan tool.

Other things I forgot to list are a new front cowling and replacing the ash tray panel with a power panel.

Thank you all for your suggestions!!

 

The Brits on the Disco3 forum recommend the Autel AP200/Maxi AP200 for budget diagnostics, kind of the next tier below the GAP. I’m not sure if it’s available in the US, but it’s around £50 so very budget friendly. The next runner up is an LR specific version of the iCarSoft diagnostic tool —those are available in the US and are cheaper than the Autel.

I agree about leaving well enough alone when it comes to the air suspension, it’s why I haven’t installed my rebuilt rear block yet! Do look into changing out the air dryer desiccant, that’s what fouls up the valve blocks. You can buy generic air dryer desiccant for automotive air suspension systems in bulk on Amazon very inexpensively.

 

They're cheap enough that I'd stick a spare brake switch in the center console with the spare bulbs.

Also, I'd replace the 2 front sunroof drain elbows, new a-pillar cover clips and make sure the cowl isnt warped and letting water in the passenger side (water ingress there hits the JCB) to prevent her opening the door to a wading pool in the floorboards.

 

Looks pretty comprehensive! Only thing else that comes to mind for me is fresh plugs and cleaning the negative battery, and other major ground connections. I would check the cowl and sunroof drain elbows too.

 

Well we made it! Hit a couple of trails along the way. The altitude triggered a rich code on both banks, but they cleared and didn't return. The coolant reservoir float sunk with a false "Low Coolant" warning. A new reservoir is on the list for next summer. All-in-all it was a good trip!