Are these the right fittings for the rear Arnott strut (V8 - LR3)? If so, to install, do you remove the fitting, compress to correct install height and replace the fitting? Or is there another way that I'm missing.

I removed the black plug and some air came out. I then installed the new Arnott strut (AS-2534) with the top three bolts and upon attempting to compress to install the lower bolt, I've realized that I can't compress it, even with a jack. Battery isn't hooked up. Air line was, now isn't. It seems as though there's still air in the bag. When installing these, do we need to remove the fitting from the strut, compress to the accurate height for install and replace the fitting? My concern with this is that it feels like it's a one-way check valve. But perhaps it's not and simply takes a great amount of pressure to open. Before I un-install it or install the other side I just wanted to check to see if there's something I'm missing. Thanks for the help!


Different diameters. The left side fits directly into the stock struts. The right goes into the Arnott strut.

How they fit together.

How they look separately.

 

The Arnott instructions does not describe or mention that part. Can you fit the hose directly to the strut without it? You may have to wait until Monday and give them a call.

Others here may know more.... let us know how it turns out

Jeff

 

I know, right?! I feel like all would make sense if the instructions said, "remove the fitting, let the air out and then put it back before installing" I'd be in great shape.

The larger piece comes installed into the strut. And the smaller fits into it, as seen in one of the photos. When the smaller is installed, the host can fit into the strut, but not without that piece. I've got to be missing something (at least that my mind can't wrap around).

Thanks for the note. I'll make the phone call Monday unless someone here can make sense of it.

 

Even if you let the air out its still a gas pressurized shock absorber and can be difficult to compress.

 

Update: Arnott gave conflicting instructions. First was to remove the check valve and position the strut. Second said NEVER remove that (fear of leak) - and use the floor jack to position the strut. Tried as I could, the floor jack just would not compress it. So, I removed, positioned and installed. Wheels aren't back on yet and I've got a bunch more work to do on the front steering before I can check to see if there's a leak.

 

Did they tell why they included the check valve?

 

Do you have both wheels off the ground? Asking because I replaced my front lower control arms recently and needed to have both wheels off the ground to get the lower bolt of the air struts into position. Otherwise the sway bar makes it too difficult to position...

 

They did not. It sounds like it's standard. But I also replaced an axle and need the correct nut in order to get the wheels back on the ground to test it out.

 

Thank you. Yes. They are both off the ground. I ended up pulling the check valve and positioning the the correct height, then reinstalling the check valve on both sides because I could not get the jack to force compress either side. Once I can find the correct axle shaft nut for the axle I bought, I'll be able to put the wheels on the ground and see if the struts leak and if everything works as it should. Fingers crossed! More later...