I was wondering what actually breaks:

-plastic clip that holds end of the cable inside actuator

-cable in between actuator and release mechanism at lower gate

-cable end attached to release mechanism ?

does anybody know?

 

Same thing happened to me - 3 row LR3 and the cable must be broken.

 

I had the problam that many have also had with the top part of the rear doors not opening. I could hear the actuator functioning but it would not release the upper door. I found great instructions here:
http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/thum...php?album=2318

I would add that when you pull back the inside carpeted panel, if you place a couple of tennis ***** between the panel and lower door, you may find it easier to get your hand down to the actuator case to find the loose cable.

When you get to the part where you need to remove the 2 tailgate support cables, you will need to remove a small clip for each of the ball ends of the tailgate support cables. These ball ends have a slot that circlips are inserted into to hold the cable in place. To remove these small clips, slide a small flathead screwdriver under the clip and push the screwdrive towards the ball end. Once the clip is removed, the retractor will pull the cable into the vehicle housing. To ensure that the end you need does not get retracted too far I used a large paper clip or binder clip between the ball and the vehicle housing.

These are the tools I used for the 2 to 3 hour job:
2 blunt knives or tire levers to pop the carpet panel out from under the to plastic trim
Phillips screwdriver to remove the top plastic trim once the tailgate is open
Long nosed pliers (I used vice grips) to pull on the broken cable
8mm socket for the two actuator mounting bolts
Torx set for the bolts on the actuator case
SMALL HANDS and probably bandages to put on your hand cuts.

I fixed the broken cable without visiting the Land Rover dealer for service or parts. I used 2 zip ties to fasten the broken cable to the actuator. I also used a third zip tie to make an emergency release in case the cable breaks again. (Too bad Land Rover never thought of an emergency release.) Here is a link to how you can install your own emergency release if you desire:
http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic4...+gate+tailgate

 

Hi there, we all seem to be having the same problem with the Discovery 3 and its tailgate mechanism, but has anyone else approached Land Rover about whose responsible for repairing it? When I spoke to Land Rover they had no interest at all and quote "could not confim it was a known problem" and I that I had to pay the costs. The car was 4 weeks past it's warranty ...bummer...

 

I had this happen to me a while back, it used to be you could go through the speaker. and pull it then take it apart the right way once u get it off. Would have saved u buying some pieces.

 

hi brad,
my 05 lr3 back hatch went out. you had said you can forward an email of this fix.
i would love to get it from you. this is a royal pain; i am grateful to have guys like you to help!
jay at 993love@gmail.com

 

MY LATCH WENT OUT ON MY O5 can you send me the info thanks

 

My latch just failed on my 07 LR3. Please send me those instructions... especially the cable repair. I don't want to buy another faulty cable!

Thanks!

 

I don't think this is checked anymore I have not got a reply yet.

 

So I am having this problem as well on my 06 LR3 HSE. Yes very disappointing that there is no manual release and such a flimsy cable. Looks like this thread has been dead a while, but I am going to do what I can to add to it.

I contacted my LR dealer here in Anaheim Hills and they seemed readily familiar with the issue - quoted me $450 to replace the entire actuator assembly - cable and all. He said "it's a pain in the butt because you have to get in there, remove the panel, open the gate, then you can do the repair" so it looks like the hardest part will be getting at the actuator.

I have done several DIY tutorials with my 02 Acura RSX-s (one of which was even fixing a door actuator, which was a huge pain because of the extremely tight space you have to work with) so I will start doing a DIY (to compliment the instructions and link that OldTiger posted) for this fix, but after being quoted $150 from a hole in the wall mechanic, I may opt to just take it there if something starts to go south.