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Back Latch - Help!

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Old Jun 11, 2010 | 11:10 PM
  #51  
redduckman's Avatar
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Joined: Apr 2009
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Guys I had the same problem with my back latch. I waited as long as I could before getting it fixed. Luckly my LR3 is still under extended warranty. I figure this will happen again so I decided to let the dealer fix it first, then the next time it happens I will fix it. They had to cut a small(about the size of a dollar) square in the back of the panel then they were able to release it. The only thing that pissed me off is that the panel wasn't covered under the warranty, which I think is a crock due to the bad design on their part. Once they were done they glued the piece back in to place. I figure this will come in handy when this happens again. I can just cut the square back open.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2010 | 02:37 PM
  #52  
equitydw's Avatar
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mine is the same, stuck, 3rd row seats. any help would be great!
 
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 08:02 PM
  #53  
arijfeli's Avatar
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Joined: Dec 2005
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I am in the same position with the back door. Can you send the information on how to fix it.

my email is;

ari_feliciano@westpowersolutions.com

many thanks- Ari
 
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Old Sep 18, 2010 | 09:50 AM
  #54  
arijfeli's Avatar
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Joined: Dec 2005
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Default Rear Latch Door Repair

I have a 2006 LR3 and found a hard plastic panel when I removed the carpet from the lower door. I could not 'pry it out'or maybe I was no forcing it enough.

I proceeded to cut it out and found the solenoid with the cable.

Start at 12" from the left trim and 3" from the to trim. Make a 5" X 4" hole. I used a grinder with a cut-off wheel. There is a reinforcement grid on the back of the panel so you have to cut deeper than just the panel width.

Good luck!

I have no idea how to post photos in here but you can send me an email and I will send them to you.
www.ari_feliciano@westpowersolutions.com
 
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Old Oct 11, 2010 | 01:48 PM
  #55  
twoguys's Avatar
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Joined: Oct 2010
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we just bought a 06 lr3 , and 2 days after the taile gate jammed, the mechanism sounds liek it is actuating, but not unlocking , any ideas greatly appreciated, hopefully is covered by the 30 day warranty on used cars
 
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Old Oct 24, 2010 | 05:03 PM
  #56  
johnmichael311's Avatar
3rd Gear
Joined: Oct 2010
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From: Kentucky
Default back latch pics

i cant see the pictures on how you did that fix on there can you sent them to me please ty so much
 
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Old Nov 2, 2010 | 10:45 AM
  #57  
bmoreylr3's Avatar
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Joined: Nov 2009
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From: San Diego, CA
Default LR3 Tailgate Cable and Latch Replacement

Problem - Tailgate & liftgate will not open due to broken cable
Solution
1) Make an service appointment at a Land Rover Center or Independent Land Rover Repair facility. If you want to spend 3 hours having fun, save $350 and risk swearing in front of your kids then proceed as follows.
2) Climb into the cargo area and use a dremel bit to cut a hole (3” x 6 ” min of l-shape as shown) in the carpeted mat. Be careful not to cut the wires on the solenoid assembly. The hole is necessary to manually override the cable to open the latch. You can also use a utility knife to remove the carpet and cut through the plastic but a drill bit on a drill or dremel is much faster. (careful not to go too deep into the liftgate). Note, the white insulation on the back of the trim piece can be difficult as it will clog up the drill bit.
3) Remove the gray insulation by making cuts with a utility knife. This way you can get to the cable to pop the latch.
4) Cut the cable using a sharp pair of wire/cable cutters. Removing the black plastic and braded steel mesh is all that is needed. Once you can access the cable itselft you can pull it to open the latch.
5) Once the liftgate and tailgate is opened you can climb out of the cargo area, grab a cold one and start disassembling the trim pieces.
6) Using needle nose pliers carefully remove the black grommets covering the screws on the tailgate. Use a Phillips head screw driver to remove the 4 screws. Slide the trim piece up to remove the black trim piece. The rubber cover for the push button (top left) can be removed by hand. Make sure all four metal brackets remain in the proper hole position for reassembly.
7) Using a 8mm wrench carefully remove the cable attachment from the sides of the tailgate. Make sure to retract these slowly so the assembly stays together.
8) Remove the carpeted trim piece damaged to obtain access to the latch and cable system. This can be done by hand by carefully pulling at the corners or using a plastic putty knife if needed.
9) Once the old carpeted trim piece is removed you can use a TX20 and TX27 bit to remove the latch assembly on the tailgate.
10) Remove the old latch and cable by gaining access to the solenoid. Cut into the insulation to remove the two bolts and unplug the solenoid on the far right. You can reattach the insulation when done.
11) Once the solenoid is free from the tailgate remove the black plastic cover and reattach the cable on the new lock assembly. You may need to use needle nose pliers to remove the old cable which slides into the metal assembly. The cable has a 90 degree aluminum piece that slides into the solenoid assembly through a hole. When the new latch & cable are attached carefully put the plastic cover back on the solenoid and put both pieces back into the tailgate. Plug the electrical assembly back into the solenoid on the right side and use the bolts to secure it back to the tailgate.
12) Finish by securing the lock assembly (TX20 and TX27 sockets work best) and temporarily attach the cables on the talegate using the 8mm wrentch. Before securing the top trim piece and new carpeted trim piece close the tailgate and test the repair. With the tailgate and liftgate closed you should be able to open the liftgate from outside then the tailgate. If successful proceed, if not check all connections.
13) Using a 8mm wrench remove the cables from the tailgate again. Use 3M, duct tape or new insulation material to cover the area on the tailgate.
14) Install the new carpeted trim assembly. Push securely down on each grommet and inspect for any gaps. Raise the tailgate slightly to install top black trim piece over top of carpeted trim and use screws to secure in place. Use 8mm wrench to tighten the cables on liftgate and slide the rubber square piece on to cover button for tailgate release.
15) Close the tailgate and liftgate, test the system once again and go high five your spouse. Remember, if this was a Japanese vehicle it would have been engineered better not to fail.

Parts Needed from Land Rover:
LR017470 Latch – T (latch assembly for tailgate) & ESN000292SMS Panel Assembly

Tools Needed:
Needle Nose Pliers, 10mm, 8mm sockets, TX20, TX27 socket or screw driver bits, 8mm wrench, Dremel or drill and drill bit, Utility Knife and Duct Tape/Utility Tape

Photos at link below
User Name lr3
Password lr3
http://gallery.me.com/bretthmorey#100318
 

Last edited by bmoreylr3; Jan 2, 2011 at 10:50 PM.
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Old Nov 3, 2010 | 06:46 AM
  #58  
Rovin4life's Avatar
TReK
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,243
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From: Albany, NY
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you don't need a dremel to do anything like that.

take two flat bladed screwdrivers and pry out the carpeted panel from underneath the plastic and get past the water shedder and then take a pair of pliers and grab a hold of the cable and twist it till it forces it open.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2010 | 10:10 AM
  #59  
bmoreylr3's Avatar
7th Gear
Joined: Nov 2009
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From: San Diego, CA
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The 90 degree aluminum flange at the end of the cable is what failed on our 2005 LR3.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2010 | 04:19 PM
  #60  
DPalmer's Avatar
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Joined: Dec 2010
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Originally Posted by bradmarchand
Hey All,

Me again from a week ago...

So I spent a couple hours on this and figured out a great solution that costs 0$. We have 3 rows in our LR3 so it was basically the worst case scenario. If anyone still needs directions on this just post a reply and the site will send me an email. I can post detailed instructions to do it yourself for free.

Brad
Hey Brad,

I too have this problem with my '05 LR3 with 3 rows, and would appreciate your instructions and pics if you have them. Thanks.

Dave
 
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