Back Latch - Help!
7th Gear
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: San Diego, CA
To Sharon_Buckland RE: LR3 Latch Repair
Not sure if you were having trouble viewing my pics or someone elses. Clearly there are several ways to replace the latch system and as you can see by my post on Page 6 this is how Land Rover technicians in the San Diego area advised me.
MobileMe Gallery
user: LR3
password: LR3
I password protected these in My Mobile Gallery. Let me know if this helps. Good Luck!
MobileMe Gallery
user: LR3
password: LR3
I password protected these in My Mobile Gallery. Let me know if this helps. Good Luck!
3rd Gear
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
2nd Gear
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Thanks a lot, it will help!
Pro Wrench
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,673
Likes: 153
From: Edmonton Alberta Canada
This time it was the cable puller screw motor.
I assume the problem is not the switch in the handle above the license plate? I ask, as the switch corrodes and eventually has to be replaced.
The link below relates to replacement of the squeeze switch.
DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Switch Replacement Rear Upper Hatch Release
The odds however are that the problem is within the lower tailgate. The link below relates to the installation of an emergency release that can be installed once you have access - for next time, so it is not much good for you right now. You might however first try to unlatch the hatch with the engine idling.
My next time was about a month ago.
The problem was not the cable release but the actuator. The actuator, part number FUG500010, is a screw type gear motor rather than a solenoid as I had thought. The little electric motor gets tired and will not rotate enough to suck in the cable release.
If that is the problem, leave the engine idling and try the release again. The extra couple of volts available to the tired motor can be enough that it will operate and hence pull on the cable. If so, then you will have the rear hatch open as usual. You can then tear things apart so that when you do get the parts, you can then manually open the hatch if you have to.
The part number of the latch cable, if it turns out that is what you need is LR017470.
DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Liftgate release mod
The link below relates to replacement of the squeeze switch.
DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Switch Replacement Rear Upper Hatch Release
The odds however are that the problem is within the lower tailgate. The link below relates to the installation of an emergency release that can be installed once you have access - for next time, so it is not much good for you right now. You might however first try to unlatch the hatch with the engine idling.
My next time was about a month ago.
The problem was not the cable release but the actuator. The actuator, part number FUG500010, is a screw type gear motor rather than a solenoid as I had thought. The little electric motor gets tired and will not rotate enough to suck in the cable release.
If that is the problem, leave the engine idling and try the release again. The extra couple of volts available to the tired motor can be enough that it will operate and hence pull on the cable. If so, then you will have the rear hatch open as usual. You can then tear things apart so that when you do get the parts, you can then manually open the hatch if you have to.
The part number of the latch cable, if it turns out that is what you need is LR017470.
DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Liftgate release mod
1st Gear
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
From: Harrisonburg, VA
I'm going to try to work on my 2006 LR3 today and see if I can get the tailgate opened.
bbyer - I assumed you determined that your issue was the actuator by trying the manual override procedure with the engine running?
bbyer - I assumed you determined that your issue was the actuator by trying the manual override procedure with the engine running?
Pro Wrench
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,673
Likes: 153
From: Edmonton Alberta Canada
Not that smart.
I am afraid I am not that smart.
While it did occur to me that the actuator was the problem, I just assumed it was the latch.
Since all was sort of working intermittently, and I had a few years earlier installed the manual release, I just ordered a new latch mechanism without tearing things apart to first look.
When the latch mechanism arrived, I installed same and of course that did not solve the problem. I did have a suspicion that the actuator was the culprit, but it was only after I replaced the latch that I got serious about figuring out how the actuator worked.
I had assumed the actuator was a solenoid and my thinking was that a solenoid either worked or did not. It turned out the actuator is a gear motor and like some motors, they kind of get weaker, slow down, that sort of thing, but can still function.
That was when I discovered that with the engine running, the motor would spin up sufficiently to pull on the latch; with the engine off, the actuator more often than not, did not have the volts and hence the strength to pull sufficiently to unlatch.
After the fact, the intermittent operation of all should have been sufficient hint to me that the problem was the actuator, not the latch but ....
Now I have both a new latch and new actuator installed so all should be good for years, however I still have the manual mechanical release installed as well.
A broken, corroded wire or switch problem within makes the manual release necessary regardless of the state of the release parts.
The D4 still does not have a mechanical release but the FFRR does - go figure but I guess that is what 205 thousand buys these days - the price here of a Range Rover Autobiography including 29 speaker radio.
While it did occur to me that the actuator was the problem, I just assumed it was the latch.
Since all was sort of working intermittently, and I had a few years earlier installed the manual release, I just ordered a new latch mechanism without tearing things apart to first look.
When the latch mechanism arrived, I installed same and of course that did not solve the problem. I did have a suspicion that the actuator was the culprit, but it was only after I replaced the latch that I got serious about figuring out how the actuator worked.
I had assumed the actuator was a solenoid and my thinking was that a solenoid either worked or did not. It turned out the actuator is a gear motor and like some motors, they kind of get weaker, slow down, that sort of thing, but can still function.
That was when I discovered that with the engine running, the motor would spin up sufficiently to pull on the latch; with the engine off, the actuator more often than not, did not have the volts and hence the strength to pull sufficiently to unlatch.
After the fact, the intermittent operation of all should have been sufficient hint to me that the problem was the actuator, not the latch but ....
Now I have both a new latch and new actuator installed so all should be good for years, however I still have the manual mechanical release installed as well.
A broken, corroded wire or switch problem within makes the manual release necessary regardless of the state of the release parts.
The D4 still does not have a mechanical release but the FFRR does - go figure but I guess that is what 205 thousand buys these days - the price here of a Range Rover Autobiography including 29 speaker radio.
