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Old Feb 9, 2016 | 03:04 PM
  #11  
houm_wa's Avatar
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I doubt that the GAP Tool does that....but it sure would be interesting. Then I could have control over my locker! That would be kinda cool...though, I doubt I'm better at managing it than the computer.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2016 | 05:00 PM
  #12  
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If the GAP tool could fully control the locker that would be almost too-good
 
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Old Feb 9, 2016 | 08:20 PM
  #13  
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I don't know that it can (and actually doubt it) but it can activate most other things for testing. I mean, I just love that I can turn on individual lights on the dash...

Even if you can control it I don't think you'd want to fully lock it even under normal trail driving. But in a situation like this it would certainly be helpful.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2016 | 11:21 PM
  #14  
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I'd say this situation is a perfect example of when you'd want that capability, and perhaps the only time you'd want it.

Like I said, I think the computer does a way better job of locking/un-locking than I could. There really isn't any noticeable hesitation before it selects 'n engages, either. Maybe a person's ego could be hurt because they have to leave it to the computer to lock/un-lock the rear, but once resigned to that, the driver can just focus on selecting the right line and pointing the beast in the right direction and applying appropriate throttle.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2016 | 11:31 PM
  #15  
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Now if only the front would lock.... Even in snow last weekend there were several times when one front tire was loaded up and not moving when the other was spinning. At least it protects the driveline that way.

If I ever kill the front dif, I'll be calling ARB.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2016 | 10:30 AM
  #16  
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Traction Control didn't kick in and spin that other front wheel?
 
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Old Feb 10, 2016 | 11:58 PM
  #17  
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Nope... I find the front 'fake locker' traction control almost, but not quite, entirely worthless.




Ok, not quite that bad but I had to take the opportunity to paraphrase HHGTtG.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2016 | 07:27 AM
  #18  
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FWIW after getting my RRS and LR3 stuck in the snow now - the trick for me is selecting rock-crawl and disabling DSC. I really hate how DSC seems to work against what the rest of terrain-response programs is trying to do. I believe in the manual LR actually states that in certain slippery conditions it's advisable to disable DSC. That alone may have solved your front "unloaded wheel slip" issue.

I've seriously been stuck in standard grass gravel snow mode, switched to the above setup, and without ANY wheel slip, simply driven out of my own wheel ruts lol.

I wonder what adjustments LR has made to the newer generations of terrain response.

Don't get me wrong though, I love the system and considering it was introduced 12 years ago, it was WORLD ahead of its time. As seems to be the case with everything LR does (just look at what the DII introduced to the auto world.)

edit: funny thing is that the basic traction locker concept seems to work really well on my DII. That thing is just about impossible to get stuck - in fact I don't think it's ever been stopped in the snow (banks, hills, whatever)
 
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Old Feb 11, 2016 | 08:55 AM
  #19  
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Ok, so I might be missing something obvious here...

But why not just use snow mode? The few times I have had call to use it on my LR3 in snow and ice, it's always ROCK solid, I cannot break it loose even if I try (except for once when I did something REALLY stupid...)
 
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Old Feb 11, 2016 | 09:24 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by aBs0lut30
Ok, so I might be missing something obvious here...

But why not just use snow mode? The few times I have had call to use it on my LR3 in snow and ice, it's always ROCK solid, I cannot break it loose even if I try (except for once when I did something REALLY stupid...)
The "grass/gravel/snow" mode IS the only "snow" mode, that's the one I was talking about using when I got them stuck.

Of course each of those times, we're talking about a foot of snow or more with a packed snow base underneath.

Snow mode is okay if you're moving, but ONCE you're stuck, I don't think the settings are ideal - especially the way it decides to lock the center diff and selectively stop wheel spin.

I've also learned that the key to driving the LR3 on small snow-covered roads (especially with a raised bank on either side) is to always stay on the high side whatever the cost (in turns, or depending how it's plowed or driven on) - they're just so damn heavy that if you're ever allow it to slide into the lower part of a banked road or turn and lose your momentum, you're unlikely to be able to climb back out to the tracks again.

That situation would never be an issue with my DII which has less aggressive tires as well.

I think the newer lighter aluminum rovers probably perform much better off-road due to weight alone.
 
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