bang goes the LR3
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Rock Crawling
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 379
Likes: 44
From: NorCal
I pretty much only use snow as an on-road mode. It's OK on snowy or icy roads or (or of course grass or gravel or other similar low traction surfaces) but it's far too fast to cut power and try to limit wheel spin. If you're in deep snow or cutting trail it's clearly the wrong choice.
In deep snow I usually run the 'mud and ruts' mode. That's a bit more aggressive and seems to work fairly well. It also gives you some wheel spin to help clear the tread if you're running an MT.
We were running in deep stuff last weekend. Although technically we were on a paved road, we were cutting trail and never got anywhere close to finding bottom. I'd guess there was at least 3' if not more, and I'm not talking about that fluffy 'looks nice on TV but only exists in your imagination' snow, I'm talking about heavy, dense stuff that you don't drive through, you drive over. Once you sink in that you're high-centered and stuck.
In deep snow I usually run the 'mud and ruts' mode. That's a bit more aggressive and seems to work fairly well. It also gives you some wheel spin to help clear the tread if you're running an MT.
We were running in deep stuff last weekend. Although technically we were on a paved road, we were cutting trail and never got anywhere close to finding bottom. I'd guess there was at least 3' if not more, and I'm not talking about that fluffy 'looks nice on TV but only exists in your imagination' snow, I'm talking about heavy, dense stuff that you don't drive through, you drive over. Once you sink in that you're high-centered and stuck.
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Rock Crawling
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 379
Likes: 44
From: NorCal
I should also mention I just finished rebuilding the original factory driveshaft with a new center support bearing. It will be going in tomorrow. Once I'm confident it's working I'll see about doing a how-to write up.
My dealer wanted over $700 for a new driveshaft. Aftermarket stuff can be found from the common Rover sources from about $400-$450 but I don't know if that's OEM make (GKN I believe) or generic. Chinese 'roll the dice' stuff like I bought from buyautoparts.com can be found from about $350 - maybe less, but I'd never recommend it for a truck that sees anything other than pavement. Assuming this actually works, it's a good option to only spend $90 and some labor instead. The bearing I received from AB was a GKN which I've had good results with in the past as OEM supplier for other LR parts.
Speaking of buyautoparts.com, they are sending me a replacement but won't do a refund or even store-credit. Not great, but at least they didn't fight it. They're also sending a call-tag to return the busted part. Not sure what I'll do with the new part they're sending - I may keep it as an emergency spare but most likely I'll ebay it off to some mall crawler. I just can't see every trusting it to get me home when I'm on anything more than a dirt road.
My dealer wanted over $700 for a new driveshaft. Aftermarket stuff can be found from the common Rover sources from about $400-$450 but I don't know if that's OEM make (GKN I believe) or generic. Chinese 'roll the dice' stuff like I bought from buyautoparts.com can be found from about $350 - maybe less, but I'd never recommend it for a truck that sees anything other than pavement. Assuming this actually works, it's a good option to only spend $90 and some labor instead. The bearing I received from AB was a GKN which I've had good results with in the past as OEM supplier for other LR parts.
Speaking of buyautoparts.com, they are sending me a replacement but won't do a refund or even store-credit. Not great, but at least they didn't fight it. They're also sending a call-tag to return the busted part. Not sure what I'll do with the new part they're sending - I may keep it as an emergency spare but most likely I'll ebay it off to some mall crawler. I just can't see every trusting it to get me home when I'm on anything more than a dirt road.
Camel Trophy
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 4,244
Likes: 482
From: North of Seattle
I pretty much only use snow as an on-road mode. It's OK on snowy or icy roads or (or of course grass or gravel or other similar low traction surfaces) but it's far too fast to cut power and try to limit wheel spin. If you're in deep snow or cutting trail it's clearly the wrong choice.
In deep snow I usually run the 'mud and ruts' mode. That's a bit more aggressive and seems to work fairly well. It also gives you some wheel spin to help clear the tread if you're running an MT.
We were running in deep stuff last weekend. Although technically we were on a paved road, we were cutting trail and never got anywhere close to finding bottom. I'd guess there was at least 3' if not more, and I'm not talking about that fluffy 'looks nice on TV but only exists in your imagination' snow, I'm talking about heavy, dense stuff that you don't drive through, you drive over. Once you sink in that you're high-centered and stuck.
In deep snow I usually run the 'mud and ruts' mode. That's a bit more aggressive and seems to work fairly well. It also gives you some wheel spin to help clear the tread if you're running an MT.
We were running in deep stuff last weekend. Although technically we were on a paved road, we were cutting trail and never got anywhere close to finding bottom. I'd guess there was at least 3' if not more, and I'm not talking about that fluffy 'looks nice on TV but only exists in your imagination' snow, I'm talking about heavy, dense stuff that you don't drive through, you drive over. Once you sink in that you're high-centered and stuck.
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