Battery terminal causing faults ?
#41
12-29-2013, 05:32 PM
#42
12-29-2013, 05:51 PM
Pro Wrench
it is a dry cold
The water will freeze and kind of evaporate so all will be fine.
The water could be from the sun roof but perhaps from the heater drains.
The link below where the 511 plus views are plus some of the other files explains how to reattach the two drains off the bottom of the heater/AC box.
One or both of the rubber drain hoses may dis-attach and rain or snow water from the cowl area drains into the carpet rather than thru the floor steel and onto the ground. In the summer, it is the AC condensation water that drains onto the carpet so you do not even need rain to have wet carpets.
If you think the water is from the sun roof, use 3M black electrical tape and tape over the four sides of the sunroof cutout to the roof sheet metal. This also eliminates wind noise as well as water leakage.
The 3M tape does not leave black goo behind when you remove it as does the far east sourced tapes - or sticky that then dirt/dust adheres to.
DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Heater Air Conditioner System
The water could be from the sun roof but perhaps from the heater drains.
The link below where the 511 plus views are plus some of the other files explains how to reattach the two drains off the bottom of the heater/AC box.
One or both of the rubber drain hoses may dis-attach and rain or snow water from the cowl area drains into the carpet rather than thru the floor steel and onto the ground. In the summer, it is the AC condensation water that drains onto the carpet so you do not even need rain to have wet carpets.
If you think the water is from the sun roof, use 3M black electrical tape and tape over the four sides of the sunroof cutout to the roof sheet metal. This also eliminates wind noise as well as water leakage.
The 3M tape does not leave black goo behind when you remove it as does the far east sourced tapes - or sticky that then dirt/dust adheres to.
DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Heater Air Conditioner System
#43
12-30-2013, 10:06 AM
#44
12-30-2013, 11:03 AM
Pro Wrench
Bulbs matter - get genuine.
Bulbs matter - they really matter actually - particularily the signal light bulbs- and yes, lots of warning lights and odd messages but never one that says burned out bulb as LR did not put any error messages in for defective bulbs - hence the baby crying syndrome.
When you say marker bulb, I am not certain which that is, but if it is one of the tail light, brake light, or signal light bulbs, try to purchase replacements from Land Rover or at least an EU manufacturer such as Mercedes, Volvo, BMW etc. In other words, not Canadian Tire, NAPA etc.
That apparent tranny problem I referred to a few posts back was the result of off spec bulbs. When LR finally figured it out, they then tried collect from the owners the cost of the new ZF transmissions that they had installed under warranty. This is one reason bulb replacement is now covered under warranty by car manufacturers - so they can claim back on the customer if they replace one with non genuine.
Incidentally, what I call a marker bulb is what one may refer to as a 168 or 194, or more correctly a T3 shape peanut bulb, the little ones smaller than your little finger with the glass wedge and wires folded back for a base.
The Land Rover T3 bulbs are not simple 194's however. LR uses two different types, W5W and W3W and they both look the same - so much so, a few years back they packed the hotter 5 watt bulbs in the 3 watt packages. The W5W five watt bulbs melt the plastic of the marker lights - hence you have to put the cooler 3 watt in. LED bulbs just might work here as I do not think the computers can pick up the T3 sized LED bulbs and throw fits. What is for certain, do not use LED bulbs in the tail, signal, or brake lights - that is asking for trouble - well maybe you can, but you have to install resistors and the like - not something you do before hitting the road for home a thousand km distant.
Here is a further comment on the bigger bulbs that look like an 1157.
Land Rover Stop Tail Light dual filament bulb nominal 12 volt 21 / 5 watt filaments
This is the Land Rover part number 264590 dual filament bulb, (P21/5), that inserts into the upper two tail lamp receptacles. In the upper one, both filaments function, in the lower one, only the 5 watt tail light filament functions.
This is the Land Rover part number 264590 dual filament bulb, (P21/5), that inserts into the upper two tail lamp receptacles. In the upper one, both filaments function, in the lower one, only the 5 watt tail light filament functions.
I regard it as not a good practice to routinely switch bulbs when the tail light filament, (5 watt), burns out on the lower bulb. The broken filament can jiggle over onto the brake light filament, (21 watt), and short the circuit to ground or something else not predicable.
There are also arguments to say that quality control is better on the Land Rover marketed bulbs than say far east sourced bulbs. Filament construction, and hence resistance can vary and mislead the current sensing circuits monitoring the signal light systems. Also when the bulbs are properly installed, all filaments should be standing vertically and not at any slope.
These are the sort of obscure circumstances that can lead to false trouble messages on the display, dropping to the stops, and subsequent concerns - all over a tail/signal light bulb.
The filament life of both the tail light and the brake light filaments in the P21/5 bulb is significantly less than the USA common 1157 dual filament bulb, (1000/250 vs 5000/1200 hours); brightness in the P21/5 is a bit more, (3cp/35cp vs 3cp/32cp where cp is candle power), but current consumption is oddly less, (0.44a/1.86a vs 0.59a/2.10a where a is amps). It is the quest for efficiency vs maintenance trade off.
DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Brake Light Switch Replacement/Land Rover Brake Light switch XKB500110
#45
12-30-2013, 11:06 AM
Pro Wrench
Check the heater box drains?
Is your floor more wet today after the rain? I wondered as if so, then the water is probably coming in the heater box / cowl drains I referred to in a previous post.
#46
12-30-2013, 11:40 AM
Well I might have misled you a little on the bulb, it in the head lamp housing the small yellow bulb in the drivers side ,.i will attach a photo
Good to know about the LEDs I probably would have made that mistake thinking its a superior bulb
Yes the floor mats are still wet, not to sure if it's residual water from previous day or not
Tailgate still behaving poorly
I'm trying to to mess with to many things until I get home
Good to know about the LEDs I probably would have made that mistake thinking its a superior bulb
Yes the floor mats are still wet, not to sure if it's residual water from previous day or not
Tailgate still behaving poorly
I'm trying to to mess with to many things until I get home
#48
12-30-2013, 11:57 AM
Pro Wrench
license plate are W5W bulbs
You should have what I call puddle lamps at the bottom of each door that go on when a door is opened. The bulbs within are W5W bulbs.
The license plate bulbs are also W5W so the doors can be a source of bulbs. The odds are the license plate bulbs are not burned out - they just need to be pulled out and pushed back in - corrosion or whatever.
Re the one in the headlight, forget about replacing it for now - wait until you get back as I presume you do not know how to remove the headlight assembly - easy if you know how but if you drop it - yes, so easy to remove that you can drop it and then another thousand dollar bill. I usually pile a couple of parkas where I think the headlight might drop - to cushion the effect on my wallet.
The marker lights in the side of the headlights and tail lights are the cooler W3W bulbs - and them being burned out will not affect the warning systems so forget about replacement until you return home.
It will take a few days for the carpet to dry out - well never in Vancouver, but in Calgary with the freezing, a week will do it. The trick is to figure out if more water is coming in or has the tape stopped it and hence the source of the water was the sunroof.
The license plate bulbs are also W5W so the doors can be a source of bulbs. The odds are the license plate bulbs are not burned out - they just need to be pulled out and pushed back in - corrosion or whatever.
Re the one in the headlight, forget about replacing it for now - wait until you get back as I presume you do not know how to remove the headlight assembly - easy if you know how but if you drop it - yes, so easy to remove that you can drop it and then another thousand dollar bill. I usually pile a couple of parkas where I think the headlight might drop - to cushion the effect on my wallet.
The marker lights in the side of the headlights and tail lights are the cooler W3W bulbs - and them being burned out will not affect the warning systems so forget about replacement until you return home.
It will take a few days for the carpet to dry out - well never in Vancouver, but in Calgary with the freezing, a week will do it. The trick is to figure out if more water is coming in or has the tape stopped it and hence the source of the water was the sunroof.
#49
12-30-2013, 12:16 PM