a/c compressor replacement
#1
a/c compressor replacement
Has anyone replaced their a/c compressor on an LR3? Any tips? Can't seem to find much on the web.
I purchased a new one but can't seem to get at the old one to replace it. I know the power steering pump needs to be moved out of the way to get to it, but I can't seem to even be able to do that.
Help for a DIY-er.
I purchased a new one but can't seem to get at the old one to replace it. I know the power steering pump needs to be moved out of the way to get to it, but I can't seem to even be able to do that.
Help for a DIY-er.
#2
Have at it > Land Rover Workshop Manuals > LR3 (LA) V6-4.0L (2006) > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 9117
Other LR3's > Land Rover Workshop Manuals
Other LR3's > Land Rover Workshop Manuals
Last edited by OverRover; 01-21-2018 at 08:26 AM.
#3
#4
Anyone have the procedure for the V8? The AC compressor is so close to the frame. I've started this job, but can't figure out which way to go next to get the compressor out. All the bolts are loose, but the 2 front ones won't come out. The bottom one hits the banjo on the power steering pump and the top one hits the frame before it clears the bracket. Anyone do this? What are the tricks?
I can just start removing things, but was hoping for a more directed approach.
Thanks a ton.
I can just start removing things, but was hoping for a more directed approach.
Thanks a ton.
Last edited by metallicpea; 03-29-2019 at 12:43 PM.
#7
OK, job done!
I didn't follow the Workshop Manual I linked quite exactly. This was on a 2006 LR3 HSE with 4.4L V8.
Here are my tips.
Remove the L/F wheel well liner and second plastic splash guard completely - as well as both skid plates.
Remove the 8mm screw holding the trans cooler line bracket to the block. Used a swivel and long extension from the bottom. Bracket can stay on the lines I believe. Be gentle with this bracket. It is flimsy between the bolt hole and body of the clip.
Remove the 4 screws holding the power steering pump to the p/s pump bracket( 2 on front through pulley opening, 2 on back - tough to get to, but doable). Pry the pump out of the bracket. I did not remove the power steering pump bracket, I did not think it was going to help.
Remove the low side hose from the compressor
Remove the high side hose
Completely loosen the 3 bolts holding the compressor to the bracket and block. The short bolt in back will come out as well as the long bolt on the front bottom now that the power steering pump can be moved out of the way, but the long bolt on the front top will not. Move the compressor as far down as you can with that bolt still captured between the frame and the compressor bracket. You can then get access to the 2 bolts in the center of the compressor bracket. They are horizontally across from each other, one near the front and one in the back. With these 2 bolts removed the compressor and bracket can come off the block and be repositioned to remove the last compressor bolt. Then the compressor can come out through the wheel well above the frame. You may or may not have to unscrew the wire connector bracket from the compressor after you unplug it to get it out. I did, but not sure I had to and it was tough getting it back in when working inside the frame of the wheel well.
FYI, My motor mounts were too tight to try to free the bolt by moving the engine. There wasn't even close to enough movement in my case.
I will say this was not a fun job. Very tight access. Bad working positions. Stuff just hard to get at. But I did it and I guess it's worth the 3.5 hours in labor I saved to pay a shop to do it.
I didn't follow the Workshop Manual I linked quite exactly. This was on a 2006 LR3 HSE with 4.4L V8.
Here are my tips.
Remove the L/F wheel well liner and second plastic splash guard completely - as well as both skid plates.
Remove the 8mm screw holding the trans cooler line bracket to the block. Used a swivel and long extension from the bottom. Bracket can stay on the lines I believe. Be gentle with this bracket. It is flimsy between the bolt hole and body of the clip.
Remove the 4 screws holding the power steering pump to the p/s pump bracket( 2 on front through pulley opening, 2 on back - tough to get to, but doable). Pry the pump out of the bracket. I did not remove the power steering pump bracket, I did not think it was going to help.
Remove the low side hose from the compressor
Remove the high side hose
Completely loosen the 3 bolts holding the compressor to the bracket and block. The short bolt in back will come out as well as the long bolt on the front bottom now that the power steering pump can be moved out of the way, but the long bolt on the front top will not. Move the compressor as far down as you can with that bolt still captured between the frame and the compressor bracket. You can then get access to the 2 bolts in the center of the compressor bracket. They are horizontally across from each other, one near the front and one in the back. With these 2 bolts removed the compressor and bracket can come off the block and be repositioned to remove the last compressor bolt. Then the compressor can come out through the wheel well above the frame. You may or may not have to unscrew the wire connector bracket from the compressor after you unplug it to get it out. I did, but not sure I had to and it was tough getting it back in when working inside the frame of the wheel well.
FYI, My motor mounts were too tight to try to free the bolt by moving the engine. There wasn't even close to enough movement in my case.
I will say this was not a fun job. Very tight access. Bad working positions. Stuff just hard to get at. But I did it and I guess it's worth the 3.5 hours in labor I saved to pay a shop to do it.
Last edited by metallicpea; 04-01-2019 at 12:20 PM.
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josher-mi (05-07-2019)
#9
I could not find one. That was my first approach as my compressor locked up. But if you have a good bearing in the pulley, you just need to cut or knock out the breakaway features on the pulley center so you can use the old compressor as the a/c delete to let the pulley free spin on the unit - never driving the center shaft. Anyway, my used compressor cost less than a delete bracket would.