Hi All,

Since I have owned my LR3, I have had a fuel smell on startup after hours of sitting. Typically the smell would mostly go away after about 10 minutes of the truck running. Sometimes it seems like it comes back a little but it’s really hard to tell. …but for the most part goes away. This issues has been at times accompanied by the error below but it’s not like I know if that error is related. I know that the symptoms point to evap and maybe the purge valve. But the problem is, I don’t know that and replacing the purge valve is expensive with the right part and does not seem that easy to do at a glance.

The fact is I really don’t know that it’s evap, it’s just the pointers are there. What would you guys do at this point? Someone said you might be able to clean the purge valve. I guess I could try that. But I am also wondering if I should try to do a smoke test. I am close to just taking it into a mechanic for a diagnosis.

I’d love to hear your advice. Thanks!P0441-00 (24) Evaporative emission system incorrect purge flow

 

I had similar symptoms with 441 and 442 codes a while back but I also had a loose gas cap message on the dash. I put a new gas cap on (OEM a must IMO) and replaced the purge valve. I probably should have tried cleaning it first but I was new to the LR3 at the time having only owned D1s in the past so I was more prone to pulling the trigger on the parts cannon.....I'm pretty sure the cap was the original so swapping that out after 19 years was no bad thing.

If I was going to clean the valve, I wouldn't try and remove it from the hose(s) and I think you'd need a heat gun if you did. It's a very tight seal and I'd worry that I might not get a good seal when putting it back together. The hoses are quite rigid. I'd probably spray a decent amount of carb cleaner down the hose, drain and repeat a couple of times. It's cheap if it works and you've lost nothing if it doesn't.

 

thanks for your reply. How did you go about replacing the valve since it is so far back there? I actually just installed an OEM fit cap from Atlantic British. We will see how that goes.

 

There's no doubt LR could have put it in a better place - it is a stretch. I just lowered the suspension and did it mostly by feel. I didn't need a step. I'm 6'2" so that might have helped a little. I'm left handed - now I think about it, that was probably the biggest help!

Some of the comments on other related threads referencing the need to lie on the engine suddenly make sense now!

 

is it best to attack it from passenger or driver side?

 

The valve is very much on the passenger side and low. I was able to access it standing next to the passenger front wheel. But if you are right handed chances are you wouldn't be able to reach that far down, and if you could, the retaining nut and electrical connector point down and towards the firewall, just to further frustrate. Lying on the left side of the engine bay would make sense as you could access it with your dexterous hand. 90% of the job is by feel and it is a fiddle.

Be careful with the electrical connector. As I recall there wasn't much slack in the wiring and you have to pull down and away to disconnect it, whilst pressing down on the release tab. I'd resist trying to disconnect after you've removed the valve from the bracket. Yes, it gives you a little more slack but you'll need two hands on it.