So my used, high miles, 2006 LR3 has a code P0026. What I've read seem to point to a pretty expensive VVT solenoid. Just thought I would post here and see if anyone else has seen that code on an LR3 and what the solution was.

 

I've had 4 different things cause this code.

The VVT actuator, which is the pricey part, and a good deal of labor to take care of.

The timing chains being off, usually this is only after a repair, and it wasn't tensioned correctly.

The sealing rings on the VVT solenoid bracket failing, and creating a oil passage blockage, I've seen this one a few times.

And one instance of a cam bearing failure, causing the camshaft to slow down.

It's a good amount of labor to do any of them. Is there a performance loss?

 

That's a good question which is hard for me to answer. When I got it, the thing had multiple misfires and it would go into reduced performance mode to save the cats. (That's how I was able to afford an LR3, the previous people failed to fix the misfires and drivability.) Anyway I replaced the coils monday evening and it runs fine with no misfires. But since it ran so poorly to start with, all I can say is it runs great now.

Funny thing is the check engine light went off this morning. Maybe the vvt system just got lazy from lack of use running around in limp home mode. Now that I've fixed the misfires it's used to working again? (I can dream right).

 

There's a chance it just had to reset itself, and wasn't used to running correctly, basically had it's cam timing so far one way to compensate, that it got scared when it was able to work.

Without a major performance loss, you're not looking at physical damage to the cam, and either have an issue with oil delivery, or the VVT unit itself, assuming cam timing is good, I've yet to see a stretched chain or wear cause timing to be off.

 

Compared to a d2 this thing is a rocket ship, performance-wise. I'll keep an eye on it for the code to come back and if it does, I might leave it to the professionals. It looks like quite a few special tools are required to remove the timing chains.

Thanks for your help and advice.

 

I'm coming back to this because I've got a couple of new codes. I've still got the P0026 that comes on intermittently. But this morning it also had P0345 and P0340 with it.

So I'm thinking two things..... one very bad, that the timing chain tensioner is bad or the chain is stretched causing the cam sensor codes.

The other maybe not so bad idea is that a flaky cam sensor is causing all of the codes. Is there any chance that a cam sensor is used to gauge the performance of the VVT system, and that a bad sensor would cause the P0026 code?

 

One bad sensor should not cause both banks to throw codes. What would really help is the sub-code. These vehicles will store the generic fault, P0026/P034x in your case, but with the right equipment there is a subfault attached, P0026-xx, that designates why the fault was stored, as there are different ways for one fault to trip.

I think where I would start is oil. Do a flush, get it hot, and get it clean, then change it again. It seems like this truck might not have been cared for all too well previously, and if there is some build up causing a restriction, this might help.

If it were just the sensor, I would expect the 340/5 code to be stored long before the 026 code. The 340/5 code is based on sensor signal feedback, where as the 026 code is based on sensor correlation. But then again, these trucks are strange sometimes.

Weigh the prices of a new sensor(bank 1, pass. side) vs a couple oil changes and a flush.

Each bank is driven by separate timing chains from the crank, so I would not suspect a bad guide/tensioner to give you issues with both.

 

So I hooked the hawkeye up to it, and it doesn't give a sub code, but it does say "Intake Valve Control Solenoid Circuit Range/ Performance (Bank 1.) Commanded position not reachable.

Also just 5 minutes ago I changed the oil with full synthetic. Maybe the detergents will help a little. Too bad I didn't check for replies earlier or I would have attempted a flush first. Oh well, maybe next time.

 

So I got brave and bought a can of BG109. They didn't have the 105, I'm not sure which is best for this kind of thing, flushing the engine.

Anyway I changed the oil after and I've cleared the codes. *fingers crossed*

Thanks for the advice by the way.

 

109 is great stuff, actually going to be doing that service in my car tomorrow, but it has a slightly different use then the 105.

105 is designed to break apart oil deposits, and any sludgy build up, the 109 is geared more towards breaking apart hard carbon deposits, mostly in order to restore compression from build up on ring lands.

The 109 is a more aggressive chemical then the 105, so it should do the equivalent at least.

I too am usually weary of flushing oil and loosening up any solids. Be sure to have an extra filter or two, and change it after a short period of driving(after the oil change following the service, no need to re-change the oil, just the filter) It is far simpler with cartridge style filters, but you can check in the filter for any solid debris, change until it stops filling the pleats after letting it run for about an hour.

In doing this service, big thing is to give it time. I generally let it idle(with several minutes of about 2-3k rpm pulls spread out) for about an hour once at operating temp. and as messy as it can get, drain and change the oil shortly after shutting down while it is still nice and hot.