HI, I recently did a valve/headgasket (and associated) job to my 2012 LR4. Truck drives effortlessly; however, after a few miles I'm getting the P0026, P0027, P0028, P0029 codes. I didn't obtain the sub-codes yet. I'm second guessing weather I torqued the VVT correctly during assembly, but know for sure I tried as per workshop. I find it odd that all four codes would appear at same time. Any ideas? Would an ECM reset at dealership post engine rebuild be necessary? I truly don't want to get back into another t-chain job. Oil change was done.

 

After replacing the head-gaskets & consecutively the timing chains, my LR4 ran well for a week before throwing P0026, P0027, P0028 & P0029 all with subcodes 77 & 72. Decreased / sluggish engine performance and at one point it went into limp mode. I'll be flushing engine with B109 tonight/fresh oil; however, I'm curious if there's anything else I can do before getting back into doing the timing job to replace the VVT units or actuators? Replacing the VVT solenoids is much easier & cheaper than replacing the actuators. Any ideas?

 

The B109 is incredibly powerful stuff. I was surprised at the amount of grit captured in the new filter. The truck ran well for a solid hour with no check engine light nor any power related issues. Ah hour later, the codes came back along with P0641 & P0A43. It stalled, then would not crank. Positive cable 400amp master fuse burned out, I suspect cause was separate from VVT issue
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Any updates? I hope i'm wrong but did the engine seize?

 

I was afraid of that that too but I am able to turn the engine over manually; however, it is rather hard. If the engine was seized, I shouldn't be able to turn it all correct? I still can't get the engine to crank- it just clicks. Replaced battery, alternator, starter, checked ground cables.

 

If you can move it by hand its prob not seized, an engine of this size would be impossible to move if seized.
When it clicks is it just one hard click? or multiple clicks?

 

Glad it's not seized as I can certainly turn it by hand. It's one click. The 400 amp fuse on the positive terminal burned out twice. The first was when the car stalled, and the second was when after replacing the alternator but not the starter. I ordered more fuses to test with the new starter as I suspect the old starter is causing it to short out. Regarding ground wires, would you know where the black ground wire behind center of engine under the wiper motor compartment leads to?

 

I think you may have found the issue but i would test with a multimeter from the downstream side of the starter solenoid over to a good ground.

 

Slow crank to no crank problem continues. I replaced the starter. It struggles to turn the engine over, then the 400 amp fuse burns out. On my third fuse now. I am afraid the early stages of engine seizing is upon this LR4. What is the average torque necessary to turn the crank one rotation? This problem happened 30 miles after replacing oil post engine flush using B109. Would a faulty VVT unit cause enough resistance to not allow the engine to turn over?

 

you ever figure out the issue?