I'm hoping to get some thoughts on this, and maybe some direction as to what I should start looking at. I've had to use the AC a few times over the past couple weeks and noticed the passenger side is just blowing ambient temperature air, maybe slightly cooler, but hardly noticeable. The drivers side along with the vents in the rear are blowing cold. Coolant levels are fine, no leaks, coolant system appears to be in good shape. I've tried various settings like eco, and adjusting both driver and passenger controls to various settings, with no luck. I've read something about a possible blender door issue, however I can't remember if that was related to the heat not working on one side or if it's also related to the AC.

I assume there is no fuse at play here? I can't imagine there is one for separate sides.

I do think there is a device not allowing the cold air to direct into the passenger side, which could be that blender door. Are there multiple doors at play here, or one specifically that I need to look at?

Thanks!

 

First you need to make sure the HVAC control head is sending a signal to the blend air door actuator and values change as you rotate the ****. Once you know the temp control is working then you need to see if voltage is reaching the blend air door actuator. If you have power there but no movement, the actuator may be bad.
These tests can be done with a good diagnostic tool. (not a scan code reader).

Hope this helps
Jeff

 

Thanks, Jeff. I appreciate the reply. I do have the IID GAP tool, however I'm a bit of a noob with it still. I've only used it for simple air suspension operations. Can I use this tool to check on those values as well? Both HVAC control head - sending signal, and voltage reaching blend door actuator. If so that's great, and it's something I can start to tackle this weekend.

Cheers,
Erik

 

Yes, the live values can show if the dial changes a reference voltage. Same for the blend door, as well as the position. You may see something like "max" "mid" "min" on the temp setting.

Also look around i the test and service section, you may find something there as well.

Jeff

 

Jeff, I finally got around to checking some values. It didn't help me much as everything seemed okay... I don't have anything to compare against. The blender door positions for both left and right set themselves to either max cool or max hot depending on the setting I chose. The temp control changed as I adjusted the dials, both driver and passenger had the same values when at the same position, or within 1. The AC system pressure was between 108psi and 117 depending on the setting. I looked at some other values as well. I'm attaching the screen shots. If you or anyone sees a value that is way off, please let me know.

Thanks!
Erik

 

The last image shows the temperature control set at zero (0) was that full heat or full cold?

Also not sure what is going on with the compressor/motor current. Is that the suspension compressor?

The high side pressure being read by the Gap tool seems low, but not knowing outside temp it is hard to know. look at this chart and see if it is close based upon temperature.

Might want to have a profession A/C guy give it once over. It may be that you are simply low on refrigerant.

 

So ya, that last image was with the temperature control set at full heat.

The compressor/motor current was a live value I could read from the 'select live values' ventilation menu. I picked some various parameters in case one of them showed a value that was way off. So is this not reading correctly?

The outside temp yesterday was roughly 26c or 79f. So, based off the chart the high pressure side, which I assume was the value being read, is supposed to be say 160 - 200. If so then ya, that could indicate something for sure. Maybe a leak in the system if pressure is low?

I took another screenshot today while out on the road with the AC unit on and set to 19c. Again, pressure reading was low based off the chat. If you can confirm. Regarding being low on refrigerant. If that's the case from my understanding that means a leak in the system? As this is a closed system and in theory should last forever. Is that right. But ya, I may have to find an AC person to have a closer inspection. They have a dye they can inject to check for leaks from my understanding. Or, maybe top up the refrigerant and see how long that lasts.

Cheers!


This was after driving for about 15min, AC set to 19c

 

Pressure seems low. Remember that this is a reading from the system pressure sensor and may not me 100% accurate, just close enough to protect the system from over/under pressure issues. You need to put an A/C specific gauge on it.
I will take a look at mine and see what the Compressor/Motor A shows. Never looked at that one before. but 242 amps seems weird. It seems the pressure is lower than it was before.
Yes they can put an ultraviolet dye in it that will show up under a U/V light. Cheap diagnostic test and usually easy enough to DIY.

Can you put a thermometer in the vent and see what the temperature of the air coming out is?
.
Jeff

 

Thanks, Jeff. Appreciate you looking at yours for a comparison.

The pressure was lower. Maybe due to the fact I was driving this time. The first measurements given were with the engine running at idle in the driveway.

I have a thermapen used for food temp readings, I see no reason that I can't put the probe in the vent and take a measurement. When I power the unit on it measures the ambient air temp. I'll try that this afternoon.

*Here are the temp readings. With the AC on auto and set to 62f the reading on the passenger side was 90f and the drivers side 76f.

Found this video by 'Chris Fix' who uses a kit to find the leak, seems like a pretty easy DIY


Cheers,
Erik