Last week I took my '05 for a drive. I don't drive it as often and this makes battery maintenance a chore. As I was backing into a parking spot (after having driven it about 6 miles) I got a fleeting "TRANSMISSION FAULT - LIMITED GEARS AVAILABLE" message with an F in the display but no corresponding fault light or icon. I remained in Reverse, parked, cycled power and everything was normal.

When I got home I plugged in the GAP tool and found NO FAULTS related with the incident. Usually when I see "transient faults" like this, that don't actually set a code, I chalk them up as due to a failing battery or low voltage? Do you guys concur?

Next issue, the battery I have is an AGM and is not that old. I'd say that every 2 weeks it gets down to 12V, and I top it up with a trickle charger on the AGM setting. Do you suppose an AGM is just the wrong battery tech for the LR3? I have had a heck of a time keeping this battery happy, and others have reported similar tales of woe. Thoughts?

Thanks in advance,
Houm

 

I have not had good luck with AGM Batteries in the LR3. They don't last as long and have more voltage issues in my experience.

As for the quick flash codes, I have always looked at the 3rd gen trucks L319/320/322 as having a 5 second rule. It has to be up on the dash for 5 seconds before its actually a problem.

 

LR switched to AGM's when the D4 came out and now they recommend for the D3 as well over a normal lead acid battery, i went to a normal LA for my current battery but previous was a genuine LR Exide AGM that lasted 6 years.

 

They also suggested that the transmission was "sealed for life" and that the diff fluid need not be changed for 60k or maybe 90k, don't remember but both bad ideas. Don't even get me going on Wrangler HP tires that the LR3 came stock on.

I'm sure my use case impacts the results. The vehicle sits for a few weeks at a time. It would be nice to not have to charge it all the time and yeah I think this one is toast and it's my third attempt at making an AGM work.

Maybe I should try an EFB.

...anyone else have insight on the faux-fault?

 

Are they a quality battery or just a cheap auto parts store no name ? these cars are power hungry and any small parasitic draw will flatten them, i occasionally get these faux faults that usually disappear as soon as they appear.

 

Diehard AGM for me lasted 14 months..

 

...I'm willing to spend money, so whatever the "good brands" are, I'm all ears. I've read that there are very few battery manufacturers so I don't want to get fleeced.

 

I installed an Interstate AGM in mine this December. We also only drive it sporadically, so it can sit for 2 weeks at a time. After a good drive or coming off my CTEK it’ll be charged to 12.8V but after 10 days it’s down to 12.3-4V.

So, I’d say your long term draw is about right for sitting 2 weeks at a time.

I’ve heard that the standard D3 alternator doesn’t quite get the AGM fully charged, so to keep it healthy long term putting it on a charger once a month is good practice.

 

That checks out with what I'm experiencing as well, and what I've heard. I put it on a charger more often than once a month, but I think it's been deeply discharged enough times that it's probably toast. Thanks for the feedback.

 

Your error reminds me of what happens with the shift selector does not agree with the transmission. Meaning the shifter linkage is maybe binding up or its slightly misaligned, come out of alignment.