Hi,
I am trying to work on my daughters 07 LR3. Suspension was dropping to bump stops in December and using RSW software I got codes indication front left height sensor fault. I ordered a new one and replaced it and attempted to calibrate with the RSW software. I used inches based on specs someone posted after converting to mm I suppose. Thought I was spot on but after a few days it dropped again with cross articulation code and rear height sensor error. This was around Christmas and I got a rear overnighted from Lucky8. Installed went fine and I recalibrated but i am stilling getting cross articulation errors and it pops red suspension light and goes to stops. My display shows the right rear tire in a weird state somewhat lower than the rest even on flat level ground. I recalibrated at work yesterday with a mm tape measure and it was fairly well off with inches. Outside of +/- spec on 2 tires. I got that resolved and had it spot on front and rear and thought I was all set and within 3 minutes it popped red and dropped. I am at my wits end on this!!!

One thing I have noticed is the 2 new sensors read on RSW software as roughly in the 230ish range when monitoring live data from sensors while driving while the old ones are in the 150 to 160. I'm not sure how the suspension computer sees that, is it just an arbitrary number and doesn't matter to computer or is that an issue there?

Edit: I have replaced the compressor due to slow rising messages which were probably legit but coming from going from stops to off road back to standard. I also wondered, I had an alignment performed a few months ago and have noticed the wheel is clocked right slightly. When viewing steering angle sensor it is 2 degrees off. I could calibrate it but thought I'd get it straightened instead. Could that cause this? Screen shows wheels straight when driving straight. Wheel is clocked maybe 10 or 15 degrees max.

The cross articulation code reads as 0x5A07 C1A07 from RSW software. Not sure if the part before the C code is the latter part with more info or not. My rear height sensor codes were:

0x5A00 C1A00. Control module
0x5A06. C1A06. rear right height sensor
0x5A29. C1A29. Switch activation too long
0x5A30 C1A30 both switches pressed at same time

The initial front sensor codes that started me down this journey were:

0x5A03 C1A03 front left height sensor
0x5A07. C1A07 cross articulation

I'm wondering now since my old sensors were from Land Rover and possibly original if they were 6 pin and the new ones are 3 pin.
All I have is the RSW software but I am hoping to get an iid soon when funds recover from the holidays. I would welcome any ideas or suggestions

Thanks in advance,

Robert

 

I picked up weird sensor faults when I had a worn out lower steering shaft. Calibration is extremely tricky I've only done it once and still think I got lucky that it worked. I used a GAP tool though and don't have any experience with the RSW software.

 

The 3-pin sensors are the updated version. Changing all sensors is not required from what I have read, but if it was me I would. As fro the number, it is indeed someone arbitrary. Its not a reading in millimeters, for example. In my case, my passenger rear reads a very different value for the others which are all fairly close.

Recalibration of the steering is easy, so maybe give that a go but I doubt a couple degrees will trigger a fault. I found it best to drive down a very straight/flat road and coast to a stop so you know the vehicles is headed dead straight. Then calibrate the steering. With that said, you really should get your alignment 100% physically accurate. But for now you can calibrate the steering if you think it could cause the issue. I just dont feel its the problem.

I am leaning toward the issue being either a valve block itself or electrical going to it. Connector or otherwise. I would inspect all valve block connectors. But your codes are implying both a valve block issue and sensor issue. Odd. Have you checked the EAS module itself? Do you have any wet carpets indicating water entry?

 

Hey,
I don't have any wet carpets but I can inspect the module just to be certain. I bought the car 3 years ago for my daughter with 79k miles on it. She has driven it 50k more miles with no real issues besides the brake switch/lights replacement for a suspension drop, front control arms and then normal maintenance, tires etc. Of course now it all hits at once. No heat on drivers side, suspect water pump is weeping. It has all caught up with me.

I happen to have a set of the O rings for all the valve blocks, one of those front, rear and central deals on Ebay. I had plan to open them up in the next couple of weeks and rebuild them and clean any decissant dust out of them.

So the valves blocks can cause the cross articulation error, they don't have their own more specific error? Right now I have F26 pull at standard height so I can take it to work with me. I'll try to work on it after 5pm there. I had wondered about putting the old rear height sensor back on to see if it fixed the wonky right rear wheel. Do you think that would be a waste of time and perhaps I should pinpoint the valve blocks?

Last question, does it hurt the vehicle to drive with F26 pull as a temp measure for a week maybe as i try this other stuff? Doesn't seem to lose air overnight.

Thanks for the replies and the suggestions. I will keep you posted on what I find

Robert

 

ArmyRover,
wonder how the worn lower shaft interfered with the sensor readings? That's pretty wild. I'm afraid this will become a parts game before it is all over. It already has new replacement Hitachi compressor, relay and new LF and RR height sensors. I'll check EAS module and work on valve blocks and really check wiring good.
Whew, this is gonna be fun.

Robert

 

Trust me you know if you have a worn shaft. It feels like your driving a 90's Ford F150. Totally dead feeling on center.

I have no idea but I was getting strange faults and the dsc would kick in on random corners, once the shaft was replaced the rover gods smiled and it was happy.

 

...I'd get that IIDTool sooner rather than later and use it to recalibrate. There is a range of values and if the calibration is way outside of that the EAS is very tough to calibrate. You almost have to do so iteratively until it's spot on.

I'd also check all wiring like in the front driver's side wheel well and make sure the brackets holding the height sensors haven't been bent (that happened to me). Both of those can complicate a calibration.

I don't think driving with F26 pulled is harmful.

 

 

Hey Abran,
I have wondered that too. I think I'll try to wrangle one up here within the week. Lucky8 has them for $512 I think. I need to buy a key or 2 on Amazon as well and program them. I understand this can now be done with the gap tool. That and getting a successful calibration would more than pay for it. I

I just don't get how my numbers can be spot on at each corner and the car still think it is out of calibration. I did see Houm's story of dealer not being able to calibrate but Gap could so there is something in there and Gap tool adds the magic ferry dust to it I guess.

Appreciate all the suggestions and I'll get me a Gap tool. Am I correct on it being able to program key now? I swear I thought I read that somewhere.

Thanks for the assistance. I'll keep this updated as I go.

Robert

 

it can program, although I have not done it myself.

If you are in So cal I can calibrate for you.