My new to me 2008 SE with 124,000 miles had this when I bought it (yes price was adjusted for all the issues)
It would only appear after setting over night. IF I turned the car off and immediately started it again, the light would not come back on for the rest of the day.
I also have a red "Brake" light because the EPB module is disconnected due to a frozen cable. I have that on the to do list, but not sure if that would trigger this light.

What I have done so far:
Raised to off ride height, pulled fuse 26 and let is set over night. (front dropped all the way down).
Returned to to off road height and used the special Land Rover air suspension tool (spray bottle of soapy water) and found a leak in the right front strut.
Replaced both front struts so they stay up over night now.
Did not fix issue.

Removed, cleaned and replaced O-Rings in front distribution valve.
Did not fix the issue.

Pulled the cover off the compressor to change the drier desiccant and discovered it had an AMK compressor. CCF showed a Hitachi. I thought I had found the problem. I re-flased the suspension ECU to let it know about the AMK.
Did not fix the issue.

I calibrated the suspension on Saturday and then again on Sunday.
Did not fix the issue.

Checked the voltage of the height sensors and they seem to be the same (or very close) so I do not suspect them at this time.
Still have the issue.

At this point I am seeking professional help from the best Land Rover knowledge base on the planet.

What else would you guys do?

Jeff

 

...I'd try changing the solenoid valve on the AMK Compressor.

 

And check the desiccant and filters while your at it.

 

What are your codes?

 

Are you stuck in build mode? Try setting high tolerance with a GAP tool then back to normal.

 

It looks like a new compressor. I am unfamiliar with the AMK. How is it different from the Hitachi?
Do you mean the reservoir control valve? I guess I do need to see reservoir and gallery pressures during start up........I will look at those and report back.

 

For some reason, I just glossed over these. I do see a trend pointing to the newly installed AMK compressor.
Rapid pressure build and bad exhaust valve seems straight forward. I had assumed ( yeah I know) that the rapid rise in pressure was a software issue since the car thought it had an Hitachi, but I guess not.
What about the motor temp. Could that be because the motor is stating against a high gallery pressure? (I will check those at lunch time).

I have not worked on one of these and not sure if I want to. IF I have to buy a new one, I may just put in an Hitachi and re-flash the ECU back if I cant fix this. I would rather get something I already have parts for and know how to work on (or I suppose I could expand my horizon a little and learn about the AMK).



I will just include the suspension codes unless you what to see everything.

VIN SALAG25408A463942
Model L319 - LR3 2008
Vehicle scanned on May 30, 2022 14:00:12
IIDControl 3.0.3 Build 89 Android - IIDTool BT V4.0 B2742

Suspension

C1A36-01 (2C) Exhaust valve - General failure information - general electrical failure
( on 15-04-2022 13:16:21 at 125035 mi )
*Confirmed
*Test Failed Since Last Clear

C1A18-64 (28) Pressure increases too rapid when filling reservoir - Algorithm based failure - signal plausibility failure
( on 11-05-2022 10:30:26 at 125053 mi )
*Confirmed
*Test Failed Since Last Clear

U0128-87 (2F) Lost communication with parking brake control module - Bus signal/message failure - missing a message
( on 15-04-2022 11:31:03 at 125031 mi )
*Test Failed
*Test Failed This Monitoring Cycle
*Confirmed
*Test Failed Since Last Clear

U2000-67 (6C) Motor temperature - Algorithm based failure - signal is incorrect after the event
( on 30-04-2022 14:46:46 at 125038 mi )
*Confirmed
*Test Failed Since Last Clear
*Test Not Completed This Monitoring Cycle

VIN SALAG25408A463942
Model L319 - LR3 2008
Vehicle scanned on Jun 17, 2022 14:13:05
IIDControl 3.0.4 Build 90 Android - IIDTool BT V4.0 B2742

C1A36-01 (28) Exhaust valve - General failure information - general electrical failure
( on 06-06-2022 16:30:40 at 125105 mi )
*Confirmed
*Test Failed Since Last Clear

C1A18-64 (2E) Pressure increases too rapid when filling reservoir - Algorithm based failure - signal plausibility failure
( on 07-06-2022 06:46:32 at 125105 mi )
*Test Failed This Monitoring Cycle
*Confirmed
*Test Failed Since Last Clear

U0128-87 (2F) Lost communication with parking brake control module - Bus signal/message failure - missing a message
( on 06-06-2022 15:48:40 at 125105 mi )
*Test Failed
*Test Failed This Monitoring Cycle
*Confirmed
*Test Failed Since Last Clear

VIN SALAG25408A463942
Model L319 - LR3 2008
Vehicle scanned on Jul 26, 2022 10:24:51
IIDControl 3.0.4 Build 90 Android - IIDTool BT V4.0 B2742

Suspension

C1A18-64 (6C) Pressure increases too rapid when filling reservoir - Algorithm based failure - signal plausibility failure
( on 23-07-2022 09:48:43 at 125746 mi )
*Confirmed
*Test Failed Since Last Clear
*Test Not Completed This Monitoring Cycle

U0128-87 (2F) Lost communication with parking brake control module - Bus signal/message failure - missing a message
( on 22-07-2022 16:29:04 at 125746 mi )
*Test Failed
*Test Failed This Monitoring Cycle
*Confirmed
*Test Failed Since Last Clear

You got me pointed in a new direction. I will now look closer at the "new" compressor.

Jeff

 

I have read that running the wrong compressor software for awhile can lead to early compressor failure... But I don't have personal experience with that particular issue.
Good news is you've fixed things that needed attention anyway, so you didn't waste effort with the struts and valve block.

 

So, I got some live data from the pressure sensor in volts; exhaust valve current in amps; and galley pressure in psi.
But like a dog watching TV (or that a pig looking at a wrist watch?), it means very little to me. It seems the voltage stays around 4.97 while driving and Galley pressure hung around 13 psi.

I can guess that the exhaust valve may be sticking as I always thought the galley would go to zero when not adding pressure to the springs. Thing is, I do not know what normal pressure sensor voltage should be when at, 140 psi vs 14 psi.

Anyone know what voltages I should see at what pressure?

Jeff

 

I would ignore resting PSI, more than likely it is zero. The sensor is not particularly accurate and even the software has tolerances for it. But I dont know the voltage ranges used. I mean more than likely 250Psi would be 12v or so? Again this is why there are variances since the truck itself can operate at anywhere from 12.5 to 14.2 volts. I would check my truck, but I am having compressor issues right now. Slapped in a rebuilt and apparently it it not good.