2006 HSE LR3 with 88K. How long once a slight whine starts do you have before needing replaced? Two indy LR shops tell me a little over a year or 12-15K miles. Your thoughts?

 

If it is just a gear noise, makes it when off the gas, but goes away when on the gas, or the other way around, realistically aside from it getting louder and a slight performance/fuel economy loss, it should not 'fail' completely. A bearing noise you want to get taken care of sooner then later, as a bearing can cause a complete failure.

 

I'll step up to the soapbox again....

The LR3 diff holds 22 ounces of fluid. The diff is splash lubed just like a D1. The LR3 weighs a lot more than a D1. The LR3 has more HP than a D1.

But there is no way that the smaller diff, with greater loads, 1/3 the fluid, can be expected to go 10 years or 150,000 miles; when the D1 and D2 are to have fluids changed much sooner, 90,000 or 72 months; more frequent in arduous service.

BTW, if you have the electronic mananged diff, it should already have been drained and refilled.

 

I completely agree with it being changed more then the factory recommendation. I suggest changing both diffs and t-case fluids at or before 75k.

It does use a full synthetic gear oil, but that doesn't offset the higher load, and lower volume. Not to mention, these diffs have issues with the vents, which will pressurize the whole unit... not good for the fluid.

 

There is a TSB out there to help with the venting issue with the front diff (installs a larger/better end cap I believe) but I'm not sure how much that helps with the pressure issues and I'm not sure if there is a similar TSB out for the rear; and if not...why not?

 

Thanks! I went and drove it again today, inspection came back with the following:
-New hub (front right wheel) - $200
-Thermostat - The engine fan is blowing REALLY loud when accelerating - $$???
-Rear Diff - $1600
-Light rust , car is from IL, nothing major.

If I low ball the price due to the repairs needed, will it be worth it. 06 HSE with 88K

 

If you can get the price you want, and you really want it, then sure it's worth it. Make sure and check the bushings, too. Also put the EAS through its paces and check that the EPB works properly and the rear hatch opens easily. Those are some other common trouble areas.

 

Be sure you get the extra key. It costs more than some of the trucks I have bought at auction.

 

We have two keys. The issue the mechanic and I are trying to figure out is the fan. They put new tstat in today and bleeder. When the LR3 accelerates it sounds like the large truck hauler on the road when they start out. Really weird....also the follow me home message popped up when I turned the truck off tonight (worry or not?)

 

BTW a front diff is like $2200 plus labor at dealer.

Pages on repair of the clutch attached.