DIY 2" LR3 Suspension Lift
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Mudding
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 178
Likes: 17
From: Los Angeles
DIY 2" or 2.5" LR3 Suspension Lift
After reading numerous other posts on the 2" or 2.5" Suspension Lift Mods and Rods, I decided to do this myself. I am aware of a few aftermarket versions available but I like working on my rig and doing mods myself.
In a nutshell, the formula for shortened Link Rods is as follows:
-8mm gives about a 1 3/4" additional lift
-10mm gives about a 2" additional lift
-13mm gives closer to 2.5" of additional lift.
I experimented with trying the 2 types of Drop Link mods you can do yourself.
One is to shorten the stock link rod by cutting off a section from each end.
The other is to get some 1/4 20 threaded rod and cut it to the length you want and screw it into the stock link rod ends.
I ended up cutting the rear stock link rod by -8mm and re assembling it using high temp silicone and then shrink tube over it.
The front mod I ended up using the threaded rod and cutting it -10mm then the stock link rod length.
The reason for the shorter front link was to brink the front end up a bit higher for a more level vehicle stance. I also wanted to play with different adjustment lengths on the threaded rod to see how it would change the lifting of the front.
Now,
Here's how i did it.
I put the suspension in Off Road Height mode.
IMPORTANT In the engine compartment fuse box, pull fuse F26.. It is the Air Suspension ECU fuse and will prevent the vehicle from changing or checking the suspension system while you are working on it.
Place jack stands or something under the frame if you plan on climbing under the vehicle to access the rear height sensors. (Safety)
Spray some silicone lube on the rubber link ends of all 4 height sensor links.
Carefully wiggle and remove the top rubber link end from the suspension post. Then carefully wiggle and remove the rubber end from the sensor post. Use one hand to steady the sensor arm and prevent it from bending or damaging the sensor. Do not grab the link rods and try to yank them off their posts. You can tear them and then you are screwed. I tore one and ended up using a rubber epoxy to repair it. I am hoping it holds.
When you have the Drop Links removed from the vehicle, Measure the front and rear links from center hole to center hole so you have a reference to go back to in case you screw anything up. You will need to use something like a small screwdriver to loosen the rubber link ends and be able to pull them off the link stems. You just need to be able to loosen the rubber's grip on the stem. They are just held on the stem by a light adhesive. Be careful not to poke the screwdriver through the rubber. This procedure of removing the rubber end pieces is the most time consuming of the whole project so take your time and do not damage the rubber.
When you have removed the rubber link ends, Measure the length of one of the front factory plastic link rods and write it down. Now do the same for one of the rear plastic link rods. THE REAR LINK RODS ARE LONGER THEN THE FRONTS.
Remember that -8mm gives around a 1 3/4" lift. -10mm gives around a 2" lift and -13mm gives closer to a 2.5" lift.
you can now either cut down equal amounts from each of the plastic link rods tips or cut yourself a length of the 1/4 20 threaded rod.
After trying the 2 methods of link rod types, I would recommend using the 1/4 20 threaded rod and not cutting down the factory plastic link rod.
From your measurements of the factory plastic link rods, calculate how much lift you want from your suspension and subtract that from the length of the factory plastic link rods you measured. This is the length of the new link rod you will make.
Remember the orientation of the rubber ends on the front drop links are 90 degrees to each other as opposed to the rears which are aligned the same.
Once you have cut down the factory link rod or made a new one from 1/4 20 threaded rod. slide or screw on the rubber ends and measure the distance from center whole to center whole. Compare this number with your measurement from the factory rods and the new ones should be shorter by the amount you calculated to get the lift you want.
When you are satisfied you have the new drop links the correct lengths, it is time to finish up. you can cut a length of shrink tubing to slide over the link rod if you want to make the whole thing look slick or just move on to the next step.
Apply a high temp silicone sealant or something like loc tite thread locker onto the ends of the new shorter link rods. Re install the rubber ends and confirm that your length measurements are exactly the numbers you wanted.
Once the sealant or thread lock or epoxy if you want is dried, reinstall each drop link back onto the vehicle. Shorter ones up front, longer ones in the rear. (No pun intended)
Now remove any jack stands or supports from under the vehicle and re insert fuse 26 back into the fuse box. The car will re activate the air suspension computer and reset the suspension.
Turn on the engine with the drivers door open. Let the air compressor re pressurize the system while keeping the door open. This will prevent the air suspension from trying to pump up the air springs while it's trying to fill the air tank. Once the compressor turns off, select Off Road mode and close the drivers door. The suspension will raise and the compressor will come back on. It is possible that the suspension might raise very slow and you get a warning about it or a warning about the compressor getting hot.
If you do, just let the system cool down for a while before trying the suspension modes. Otherwise, select the off road height mode. get out and confirm you have increased suspension lift. Then select Normal height mode and then access mode. Each mode will be higher according to the lift mod you chose.
It might take a few cycles before the air system smooths out during suspension height selections.
In a nutshell, the formula for shortened Link Rods is as follows:
-8mm gives about a 1 3/4" additional lift
-10mm gives about a 2" additional lift
-13mm gives closer to 2.5" of additional lift.
I experimented with trying the 2 types of Drop Link mods you can do yourself.
One is to shorten the stock link rod by cutting off a section from each end.
The other is to get some 1/4 20 threaded rod and cut it to the length you want and screw it into the stock link rod ends.
I ended up cutting the rear stock link rod by -8mm and re assembling it using high temp silicone and then shrink tube over it.
The front mod I ended up using the threaded rod and cutting it -10mm then the stock link rod length.
The reason for the shorter front link was to brink the front end up a bit higher for a more level vehicle stance. I also wanted to play with different adjustment lengths on the threaded rod to see how it would change the lifting of the front.
Now,
Here's how i did it.
I put the suspension in Off Road Height mode.
IMPORTANT In the engine compartment fuse box, pull fuse F26.. It is the Air Suspension ECU fuse and will prevent the vehicle from changing or checking the suspension system while you are working on it.
Place jack stands or something under the frame if you plan on climbing under the vehicle to access the rear height sensors. (Safety)
Spray some silicone lube on the rubber link ends of all 4 height sensor links.
Carefully wiggle and remove the top rubber link end from the suspension post. Then carefully wiggle and remove the rubber end from the sensor post. Use one hand to steady the sensor arm and prevent it from bending or damaging the sensor. Do not grab the link rods and try to yank them off their posts. You can tear them and then you are screwed. I tore one and ended up using a rubber epoxy to repair it. I am hoping it holds.
When you have the Drop Links removed from the vehicle, Measure the front and rear links from center hole to center hole so you have a reference to go back to in case you screw anything up. You will need to use something like a small screwdriver to loosen the rubber link ends and be able to pull them off the link stems. You just need to be able to loosen the rubber's grip on the stem. They are just held on the stem by a light adhesive. Be careful not to poke the screwdriver through the rubber. This procedure of removing the rubber end pieces is the most time consuming of the whole project so take your time and do not damage the rubber.
When you have removed the rubber link ends, Measure the length of one of the front factory plastic link rods and write it down. Now do the same for one of the rear plastic link rods. THE REAR LINK RODS ARE LONGER THEN THE FRONTS.
Remember that -8mm gives around a 1 3/4" lift. -10mm gives around a 2" lift and -13mm gives closer to a 2.5" lift.
you can now either cut down equal amounts from each of the plastic link rods tips or cut yourself a length of the 1/4 20 threaded rod.
After trying the 2 methods of link rod types, I would recommend using the 1/4 20 threaded rod and not cutting down the factory plastic link rod.
From your measurements of the factory plastic link rods, calculate how much lift you want from your suspension and subtract that from the length of the factory plastic link rods you measured. This is the length of the new link rod you will make.
Remember the orientation of the rubber ends on the front drop links are 90 degrees to each other as opposed to the rears which are aligned the same.
Once you have cut down the factory link rod or made a new one from 1/4 20 threaded rod. slide or screw on the rubber ends and measure the distance from center whole to center whole. Compare this number with your measurement from the factory rods and the new ones should be shorter by the amount you calculated to get the lift you want.
When you are satisfied you have the new drop links the correct lengths, it is time to finish up. you can cut a length of shrink tubing to slide over the link rod if you want to make the whole thing look slick or just move on to the next step.
Apply a high temp silicone sealant or something like loc tite thread locker onto the ends of the new shorter link rods. Re install the rubber ends and confirm that your length measurements are exactly the numbers you wanted.
Once the sealant or thread lock or epoxy if you want is dried, reinstall each drop link back onto the vehicle. Shorter ones up front, longer ones in the rear. (No pun intended)
Now remove any jack stands or supports from under the vehicle and re insert fuse 26 back into the fuse box. The car will re activate the air suspension computer and reset the suspension.
Turn on the engine with the drivers door open. Let the air compressor re pressurize the system while keeping the door open. This will prevent the air suspension from trying to pump up the air springs while it's trying to fill the air tank. Once the compressor turns off, select Off Road mode and close the drivers door. The suspension will raise and the compressor will come back on. It is possible that the suspension might raise very slow and you get a warning about it or a warning about the compressor getting hot.
If you do, just let the system cool down for a while before trying the suspension modes. Otherwise, select the off road height mode. get out and confirm you have increased suspension lift. Then select Normal height mode and then access mode. Each mode will be higher according to the lift mod you chose.
It might take a few cycles before the air system smooths out during suspension height selections.
Last edited by Xrover; Jun 3, 2013 at 10:04 PM.
Camel Trophy
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 4,244
Likes: 482
From: North of Seattle
...you can do a helluva lot more than that too.
For the suspension, you do it one time and save the setting. Then you can roll around on your bigger tires at stock heights until you are at the trailhead. Plug in the device, select your (taller) stored setting, take the device out...wheel all day enjoying a 2" lift. Then when you're done, return to stock height and hit the highway.
For the suspension, you do it one time and save the setting. Then you can roll around on your bigger tires at stock heights until you are at the trailhead. Plug in the device, select your (taller) stored setting, take the device out...wheel all day enjoying a 2" lift. Then when you're done, return to stock height and hit the highway.
