DIY EPB module replacement?
#1
DIY EPB module replacement?
Looked for write ups but came up blank. Replaced the rear shoes after the infamous banshee scream when the shoes locked to the disk. After doing the ritual adjustment on the shoes, the EPB is no longer screaming but making a hunting type sound as featured on the You Tube video.
Tried the unjam and latch via Faultmate but no banana. At this point I'm guessing the module is toasted. It’s the SNF500150 which appears to be replaced by the LR019223. Don't know if that is actually any better or different as in improved. Local dealership would like me to cross their palms with $1300 to fix claiming four hours labouring. That seems high, although I know it is a pain, with a lift I would expect it a lot easier.
So, anybody done their own and in hindsight would still do it ? I have the service manual but wonder if there are any "if I knew then what I know now" addendum that would be greatly appreciated. If you're in Austin Texas and fancy helping a fellow LR3er out for beer and BBQ even better....
-- Stuart
Tried the unjam and latch via Faultmate but no banana. At this point I'm guessing the module is toasted. It’s the SNF500150 which appears to be replaced by the LR019223. Don't know if that is actually any better or different as in improved. Local dealership would like me to cross their palms with $1300 to fix claiming four hours labouring. That seems high, although I know it is a pain, with a lift I would expect it a lot easier.
So, anybody done their own and in hindsight would still do it ? I have the service manual but wonder if there are any "if I knew then what I know now" addendum that would be greatly appreciated. If you're in Austin Texas and fancy helping a fellow LR3er out for beer and BBQ even better....
-- Stuart
#2
#4
#5
Bodsy's Brake Bible
I assume that you have already downloaded, read and learned all from what is called Bodsy's Brake Bible?
It is a free 36 page pdf re the brakes on a 3. Towards the end of the document is a pretty good discussion on the parking brake as it can be such a pain.
Link on disco3 to Bodsy’s Brake Bible
http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=4184
Download the latest version; v1.6a as of when I typed this and over 3,000 views now.
Bodsy keeps updating it as he tunes the 36 page pdf up.
The best part is probably towards the end re the electronic parking brake.
It is black art stuff, (well leading edge, maybe just bleeding); also the set and unset procedure applies when doing just a normal rear pad change.
If you ignore the set unset procedure, then a few miles down the road, the squealing will start.
The fronts are more normal, but the rears, not!
You actually have three pair of brake assemblies to deal with, the front pair of rotors, and pads, the rear pair of rotors and pads, and then the parking brake pair of drums and shoes – yes, drums and shoes. That is why you can use the parking brake as a “dynamic” system to safely slow the vehicle from highway speeds. The owner’s handbook explains the procedure as below.
Dynamic operation
In an emergency, the park brake can be applied
’dynamically’, i.e. with the vehicle travelling at
more than 3 km/h (2 mph). Pulling up on the
lever and holding it up gives a gradual reduction
in speed. The brake warning indicator will
illuminate accompanied by a harsh sound and
’Caution! Parkbrake applied’ appears on the
message screen. The stop lamps will illuminate.
Releasing or depressing the lever will cancel the
park brake application.
It is a free 36 page pdf re the brakes on a 3. Towards the end of the document is a pretty good discussion on the parking brake as it can be such a pain.
Link on disco3 to Bodsy’s Brake Bible
http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=4184
Download the latest version; v1.6a as of when I typed this and over 3,000 views now.
Bodsy keeps updating it as he tunes the 36 page pdf up.
The best part is probably towards the end re the electronic parking brake.
It is black art stuff, (well leading edge, maybe just bleeding); also the set and unset procedure applies when doing just a normal rear pad change.
If you ignore the set unset procedure, then a few miles down the road, the squealing will start.
The fronts are more normal, but the rears, not!
You actually have three pair of brake assemblies to deal with, the front pair of rotors, and pads, the rear pair of rotors and pads, and then the parking brake pair of drums and shoes – yes, drums and shoes. That is why you can use the parking brake as a “dynamic” system to safely slow the vehicle from highway speeds. The owner’s handbook explains the procedure as below.
Dynamic operation
In an emergency, the park brake can be applied
’dynamically’, i.e. with the vehicle travelling at
more than 3 km/h (2 mph). Pulling up on the
lever and holding it up gives a gradual reduction
in speed. The brake warning indicator will
illuminate accompanied by a harsh sound and
’Caution! Parkbrake applied’ appears on the
message screen. The stop lamps will illuminate.
Releasing or depressing the lever will cancel the
park brake application.
#6
#7
Not yet had any real trouble.
I would say that you did right.
Re the parking brake, for me, I cheat.
I have yet to use it myself anywhere other than when parked at the dealership for an oil change. I exercise it just to prove that it is not yet frozen; also my 3 never breaks down or acts up when at their shop so I feel quite secure in activating it; otherwise never - I carry wheel chocks and live on the bald flat prairies.
Re the parking brake, for me, I cheat.
I have yet to use it myself anywhere other than when parked at the dealership for an oil change. I exercise it just to prove that it is not yet frozen; also my 3 never breaks down or acts up when at their shop so I feel quite secure in activating it; otherwise never - I carry wheel chocks and live on the bald flat prairies.
#8
Even the service manager of my local LR dealer says he never uses it. That's an endorsement for you.
Oh and the parts department actually keeps them in stock. Is that significant ?
Crush washers for transfer case plug ? Nope. At least the parts guy and I are getting along. He said I didn't have to order ten EPB actuators this time ;-)
Last edited by stmcknig; 09-15-2012 at 11:42 PM.
#9
I need the parts guy more than he needs me.
Actually I find it is a good idea to stay on their good side, and yes, it is significant that they have a particular part in stock. It means that the odds are you are correct and that you also need the part. Parts they do not stock suggest to me one has to keep looking for the fault as probably I have come up with the wrong solution. That is not always true however. My new electro viscous cooling system fan, (about $650 for the fan only), was the first one that they had sold and installed so that was a need to order part and a new experience for all. It did not make me feel happy but everyone else seemed pleased.
New crush washer are important, but the dealership for the most part only services new vehicles still under warranty; older ones, underparts oil changes happen somewhere else, if at all, and not all agree that the small stuff matters. Same with the oil pan plug - new one every time as I never want to purchase a new cast oil pan.
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