EAS disconnect switches (writeup)
#12
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Yes I should clarify this should not be a case of switch OR IID tool, more of giving yourself a few extra options. Getting my tool out and my phone connected to it isn't terribly annoying, of course it does many, many other things. I just prefer this to playing around with build mode every time I might need to get it on a jack or change a tire etc. ![Wink](https://landroverforums.com/forum/images/smilies/Uh2vXQr.png)
Still love my GAP tool.
![Wink](https://landroverforums.com/forum/images/smilies/Uh2vXQr.png)
Still love my GAP tool.
#13
![Default](https://landroverforums.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
EAS switch update
Ran the switches in the truck for a few weeks to make sure they worked and did not interfere with anything else, now it was time to adjust the location.
MAIN switch (F26E)
![](https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1604/25127760786_9b95307f00_c.jpg)
Opening both covers got old, fast. Used the step bits from the snorkel install to make a perfect-sized hole for the switch to fit through.
![](https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1568/25060840271_7cd9ab24d8_c.jpg)
Just drilled each step, deburred and checked for fit. I forget what diameter was best but each step up was in 2mm increments
![](https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1588/25060841511_7f0ea6befa_c.jpg)
That way the wiring will be protected by both covers, and the switch can be actuated from the engine compartment (IE hood open).
![](https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1533/24591624633_4e2984163e_c.jpg)
As noted, a hole was drilled in an empty spot in the wall of the fuse box. I wanted simple, clean holes that I could blank off if I removed the switch assy. later.
![](https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1618/24786404899_5be2bcaec1_c.jpg)
Had to make a wiring extension so replaced the U-shaped ends with round ones that were exactly sized to the screw-down terminals of the toggle switch. Opposite ends were wire-crimps with shrink tubing.
![](https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1669/24858443830_6713472a05_c.jpg)
Switch fitted. ON position denotes EAS-ON, or LIVE. OFF position denotes EAS-OFF, or SAFE/INACTIVE (photo shown of the EAS-OFF position)
The switch fit snugly in the hole, and the two threaded nuts were tightened down to clamp the switch to the plastic wall. Nice and solid.
![](https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1671/25035862582_335a40f200_c.jpg)
Now just open the hood and flip the switch to disable the EAS (photo shown of the EAS-ON position)
![](https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1523/24858439180_d60bf128b1_c.jpg)
AUX switch (F35P)
![](https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1590/24523430364_f2441f4160_c.jpg)
installed in glovebox
![](https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1651/25060846081_1bb83fa41a_c.jpg)
left enough wiring to reach through into the glovebox
![](https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1522/25127768596_4f947f8e3b_c.jpg)
temporary mounting point. Since moved into the glovebox and left to sit behind everything. In the position pictured it would keep triggering suspension faults but the wiring was fine. In a stationary position it does not bother anything. Harder to get to, looking for a permanent home.
Ran the switches in the truck for a few weeks to make sure they worked and did not interfere with anything else, now it was time to adjust the location.
MAIN switch (F26E)
![](https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1604/25127760786_9b95307f00_c.jpg)
Opening both covers got old, fast. Used the step bits from the snorkel install to make a perfect-sized hole for the switch to fit through.
![](https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1568/25060840271_7cd9ab24d8_c.jpg)
Just drilled each step, deburred and checked for fit. I forget what diameter was best but each step up was in 2mm increments
![](https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1588/25060841511_7f0ea6befa_c.jpg)
That way the wiring will be protected by both covers, and the switch can be actuated from the engine compartment (IE hood open).
![](https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1533/24591624633_4e2984163e_c.jpg)
As noted, a hole was drilled in an empty spot in the wall of the fuse box. I wanted simple, clean holes that I could blank off if I removed the switch assy. later.
![](https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1618/24786404899_5be2bcaec1_c.jpg)
Had to make a wiring extension so replaced the U-shaped ends with round ones that were exactly sized to the screw-down terminals of the toggle switch. Opposite ends were wire-crimps with shrink tubing.
![](https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1669/24858443830_6713472a05_c.jpg)
Switch fitted. ON position denotes EAS-ON, or LIVE. OFF position denotes EAS-OFF, or SAFE/INACTIVE (photo shown of the EAS-OFF position)
The switch fit snugly in the hole, and the two threaded nuts were tightened down to clamp the switch to the plastic wall. Nice and solid.
![](https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1671/25035862582_335a40f200_c.jpg)
Now just open the hood and flip the switch to disable the EAS (photo shown of the EAS-ON position)
![](https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1523/24858439180_d60bf128b1_c.jpg)
AUX switch (F35P)
![](https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1590/24523430364_f2441f4160_c.jpg)
installed in glovebox
![](https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1651/25060846081_1bb83fa41a_c.jpg)
left enough wiring to reach through into the glovebox
![](https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1522/25127768596_4f947f8e3b_c.jpg)
temporary mounting point. Since moved into the glovebox and left to sit behind everything. In the position pictured it would keep triggering suspension faults but the wiring was fine. In a stationary position it does not bother anything. Harder to get to, looking for a permanent home.
#14
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simjack
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10-12-2008 10:24 AM