In that case, if the hose and brass nut and connector were still attached, why would you have to remove them at all? I would think you could just screw them right back into the new block and the compression action would reseal the hose? I may very well be misunderstanding this though...

Either way - great write up!

 

Cool! I must have missed where you said that. Where'd you get yours for $155? I'm in need and refuse to pay AB's asking prices.

 

I actually got mine off of eBay from some dealer in NY w/good reviews.

 

^Sounds like Lucky8.

 

Sorry... think I missed this question before.

The new valve block comes with new voss connectors attached to it. I suppose you could unscrew the new voss connectors and simply screw the old voss connectors (sitll attached to the air lines) into the new valve block... but, why would you want to? I was trying to track down an air leak. I'd be pretty ticked if I went through the whole exercise and put everything back together only to discover it was still leaking because one of the seals on a connector was bad instead of having an internal valve block leak.

Just trying to cover all of my bases.

 

Nice article, I just did the similar thing but for reservoir valve block, in the middle. I don't think that we can remove the hose and we shouldn't cut the hose line. I did unscrew the VOSS and carefully remove the small one on the other side to release the hose with screwdriver. I believe this kind of VOSS is one way only, you push in the hose, pull it back little bit and job done, hose connection is locked and sealed.

I double check in LR3 manual, you need to install new VOSS connector if you want to install it again, however I didn't try to clean it but buy a new part.

 

Thread necromancy. Sorry, but hate to start a new one.

I did my front valve block today. Was pretty easy and straight forward thanks to this thread. For anyone trying this without the ability to depressurize the system, its not 100% necessary. I also did not remove the wheel but I had it turned full to passenger side (right side). I placed supports for the chassis to rest on under the Rover and removed the liner. At the valve block I first slowly loosened the green line until I heard air escape and stopped loosening the nut. The vehicle slowly lowered onto the supports. When I could no longer hear air escaping, I removed the line. Then I removed the other two lines. The rear never lowered, just the front as expected. For o-rings, I bought a kit on eBay for $35 USD. Probably pretty pricey for a bunch of o-rings, but in my eyes its well worth it since one does not have to figure out all the sizes needed.

For installation, you can turn the nuts easily enough by hand to make sure you are properly threading the lines without causing cross-threading in the soft plastic valve block. Once they are started, tighten with wrench. The air lines are very flexible and will not easily be damaged. You could try some silicone lubricant on the ends of the lines to help with installation. I did not replace the o-rings on the VOSS connectors as the kit did not come with them. But if the block still leaks, it will not be much trouble to do those. Will find out in the morning if its leaked at all.

One thing I did notice is that the block seems to have slight warpage where the halves meet. I wonder if this is the cause of some problems.

 

I successfully cleaned/rebuilt my front and rear blocks.

I also refreshed the compressor and desiccant.

They were much better for a while, but now the front needs another clean/rebuild - i believe because there was SO MUCH dust in the lines from the old, bad desiccant.

I wish there was a way to clean out ALL the lines?

 

Well one could certainly locate each end of each line, disconnect them and purge with some sorta cleaner that would not compromise the line material. Thinking spray can solvent followed by high pressure air compressor (garage compressor, not the vehicle unit). That should remove most. Anything in the page themselves will probably never work back into the system.

But I agree. When I rebuilt mine there was that white powder. I have worked on several air line systems on cars and never saw that before. Must be unique to the desiccant used by Rover. A rebuild of my compressor with new desiccant is next.

 

I know this is an old thread but... About to change my valve block on a 2011 LR4. As I look through this thread, it hasn't been clearly established if I should reuse the existing connectors or use the new Voss connectors that will come with my new unit. Anyone? If removal is suggested, it there an easy way to remove the connector and directions on how to install new hose connectors?