So this nice error code came up tonight. Followed by HDC off. Idled rough and then Went into limp mode and I hobbled to find a quite place in the parking lot to figure things.

Turned it off and back on. engine fault briefly
flashed then everything was back to normal.

Ran the gap tool and here is the plethora of errors. Cleared them. No faults after the clear.

many ideas here?

 

How many of those codes were set when you had the problem? A lot of them are probably just noise, so you need to look at the date/time they were set. Not knowing that info, the throttle body and accelerator codes stand out for me. Personally I'd start with cleaning the throttle body and doing a relearn on it via resetting fuel adaptations, then monitoring for awhile....

 

I will look into that. Do you see a connection between this and HDC faults?

i only ask as this morning when going up hill I could feel hesitation then a slight drop in acceleration followed by HDC fault. BUT…hdc system still operable. It’s Like a momentary lapse In something triggers a fault then goes back to normal.

thoughts?

 

I think it is a hardware issue, connections to the hardware. ( As usual, I could be wrong)
All of the P060 codes point to;
ECU
Pedal Assembly
Throttle Body
Or any of the wiring, grounds or connections associated with these three things.

I see the voltage with the ignition on was 12.4 - Just curious, what was the outside temp when you took these readings?

As stated above, clear the codes, but this time set the GAP tool to only read test failed since last clear to clean up the list a little.

Hope this helps

Jeff

 

Ok. Where would you suggest i start? FYI - not sure, on GAP, where i change the setting as you have indicated.

Also, since you asked, the temp when taking this was about 26c which is about 78-79f. What were your thoughts on that? Low?

I had thought about possibly it's the alternator...not keeping the batt. charged or the battery itself, since i get infrequent HDC not avail notices...most of which pop up, then go away and do not disable the HDC system.

 

Can't copy the page out of the book right now but figure 47 on page 93 of the IIdTool manual describes the process.

To access the “Advanced Read” function and change the filter in the app, it is necessary to select the fault function first. Then press Advanced and select the desired bits.
On the right you will have a choice to select
Test Failed
Test Failed This Monitoring Cycle
Pending
Confirmed
Test Not Completed
Test Failed Since Last Clear
Test Not Completed This Monitoring Cycle
MIL Requested
You can select one or all of them.

As for temp, the alternator changes voltage depending on the temp as a battery protection feature. For that it "seems about right"

As an after thought: when was the last time you replaced the brake pedal switch under the dash?

 

I had something similar in an extreme cold situation. Car started and then everything went bonkers and car shut off. Wouldn't recognize the key/immobilizer for a while. Cold had killed the battery. Once I cleared errors and got it restarted it was fine. Something to consider with voltage showing 12.4v. Mine in the past threw up a lot of errors when the battery was due a replacement. Replaced battery and no issues.

 

Thanks. Are you suggesting 12.4 is marginal for a sitting battery especially for this LR3? I know when it's started and gets going it's 14.3 or so which I know is operational.

 

It's the resting battery power that usually matters as that is what the vehicle is dependent on at startup before the alternator kicks in. If you haven't replaced your battery in the last 2-3 years it's probably due. Not guaranteed to be the problem, but it resolves a lot of these issues. You can get it tested at any auto parts store. If it's at all marginal, I'd replace it.

 

According to gap…

13.8 while running / 12.4 sitting.

maybe alternator?

ill try the multimeter tomorrow….