My son's 07 LR3 is having issues. He is in Montanna, and it's getting cold. When he turns on his headlights, the gear shifter starts to click. It's still driveable, but all the dash lights are on. See photo. It has 14.5 to 15 volts at the battery. I think it's a bad ground, but I'm not sure where he should look. Any help would be great. FYI the check engine light has been on for three years due to bad CATs, no smog in Montanna so we haven't worried about it.

 

That is fairly high voltage. I generally only see over 14.5 on wicked sub-zero days and that drops fairly quick. So I would not rule out the alternator or a bad battery that is causing issues. There are multiple ground locations, but the one that can cause the most issues is on the passenger side behind the wheel well liner at the frame. I think one might be able to get to it without taking the liner out. But I would first look at the battery main fuse. There is a 400amp fuse in a small black box at the positive connection to the battery. I have seen then corrode and even heard they can crack. I forgot the fuse style, but any auto place should have one.

Any starting issues? And even with that mess of lights, codes *might* help. I would clear them and see what comes back.

 

He doesn't have code reader. The battery is new from last year and the Altinator is only two years old.

 

Well.....do not rule them out. At least not the alternator. Do the faults clear after a short while or long while or after being warmed up then restarted?

 

Not sure, I'm in California and I'm working from afar with a college kid. I'm very handy and I just sold my LR3 and I have a RR L405 TD6. I do all my own work (mostly). So I have found it's hard to find anyone at a shop that can diagnose problems like this. The alternator was from Napa and a lifetime warranty.

 

Understand. My "gut" says it is a charging issue but that would normally be reflected in the numbers. I would def get him to check that fuse first, its easy to get to. Just have to open that little box up. I would just get a replacement first, just swap it anyway. What can happen if cracked it can show the right voltage, but there simply is not enough amperage that can pass over it. I even had this once with my fuel pump, drove me nuts. Voltage was fine! But pump would not run.... Found a wire barely connected, rubbed and corroded. So I got a voltage reading but far too little wiring left for the amperage needed when under load.

 

Thanks that's a big help

 

Oh, want to mention that the positive main wire from the alternator does not go to the starer then to the battery like on some older setups. There is a large "T" fitting crimped that splits to both. Just incase someone tried to toss in a bad starter connection as the issue, it's not likely. On that note since the alt is new, after the fuse I would check those connection for tightness. You can do it by pulling that small plastic splash guard mounted to the frame in the front of the wheel well that tucks a little behind the wheel well liner. I actually swap alternators just by accessing that area with that cover removed.

 

Non genuine alternators are known to give issues so i second what DT is saying, you dont want that voltage for long periods or something is going to fry.
Once the smoke gets out its to put it back in, he could try rigging up a new earth strap between engine and chassis/body to see if that helps.

 

Thanks for all the help. We will look into all that.