Falcon website out of T bleeder valves? Whaddya think of this?
#12
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svs (09-17-2021)
#13
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If you have a local Rover dealership it's likely cheaper to get the part from them but if you have to add shipping it's probably going to be $20 anyways.
The straight pipe idea is really a better way to go, didn't think of that at the time I needed my tee-when mine went, I had smelled some coolant, saw the tee weeping and said "hmm", touched it and it exploded at my touch. I was liucky to not get coolant burns.
The straight pipe idea is really a better way to go, didn't think of that at the time I needed my tee-when mine went, I had smelled some coolant, saw the tee weeping and said "hmm", touched it and it exploded at my touch. I was liucky to not get coolant burns.
#14
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I think Metal instead ~ almost doesnt matter how much a new bleeder costs to me because the potential consequences of the OEM breaking unexpectedly are much higher. I know how inexpensive the plastic OEM bleeder is (and that some say the bleeder part may not be necessarily important), but I dont want a plastic one. This seems like the tiniest part in the whole vehicle ~ but like ignition coils, brake switches .... these are very simple things to address changing / having spares for security.
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svs (09-17-2021)
#15
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Had to hitch a ride into town to get jugs of coolant. There was just enough of 1 of the connectors left to rig it into a straight pipe. Wrapped it in at least 10 layers of electrical tape, filled the coolant then had to burp it at least 5x. Still didn't get all the air out and it shot up to the red after 5 min. 1 last burp then was what it needed but that was a long 3 HR drive home at 60 and eagle eyeing the temp gauge
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svs (09-17-2021)
#16
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Was that your thread? The person gave sizes to go buy etc. Whoever that was, I copied but ended up buying the $70+ dollar Falcon part. I called them after being frustrated with their website. They had 2 left (none of the less expensive ones) and I bought one of them. I made two of those 4 part brass fittings and put Loctite Red High Temperature thread locker on. I just didnt trust that I did it right and didnt want to risk seepage or unthreading. LOL. So now I guess I have 2 spares. I have 2 LR3s, anyway ~
Last edited by svs; 09-17-2021 at 10:04 AM.
#17
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I did a thread probably 4 years ago about it listed the bits you need etc. Sorry thought you said you pulled the pic from the thread and it's been awhile lol. My LR3 is going strong no leaks no coming apart you should be solid with that thread locker on it.
I somehow now have 3 LR3's so I understand....
I somehow now have 3 LR3's so I understand....
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svs (09-18-2021)
#18
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You're the one I was trying to reply to ~ nope that's my pic above. I'm female. Maybe u thought it was your pic because u have small feminine hands? (*lol) But.... I think maybe you're the one I copied. (I saw a post that provided the pieces to buy) << If that was you, thanks!! But I went with Falcon anyway. I thought going threadless was less to worry about (didnt trust threadlock for leaks seepage etc).
#19
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I did a thread probably 4 years ago about it listed the bits you need etc. Sorry thought you said you pulled the pic from the thread and it's been awhile lol. My LR3 is going strong no leaks no coming apart you should be solid with that thread locker on it.
I somehow now have 3 LR3's so I understand....
I somehow now have 3 LR3's so I understand....
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#20
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svs (09-18-2021)