Hi new here. Ive been all over these forums for the last few months and have reached my end. A few months ago we bought a 2005 lr3 from a private person. Test drove it and everything was good. A few days later the issue started. ONLY on 1st start of the day it throws the "trans limited gears, hdc fault, and special programs off". If we let it run for about 5 to 10 minutes then shut it down and restart it, everything is gone for the rest of the day. Heres the thing, these codes come up as soon as the key is turned on BEFORE WE EVEN START THE ENGINE. We noticed on warm to hot days, sometimes we can just start it and go without an issue. Now that temps are dropping, the 5 to 10 minutes deal is getting harder to pull off. If we drive it up the street 5 minutes and get it warm quick and shut it down and restart, its back to normal. Once in a while we get the yellow and red park brake lights light up also with this but not all the time. I've done and check everything that I can going by this site. I replaced the brake light switch along with the bulbs which made absolutely no difference either way. The charging systems charging about 14.75. The battery is testing good. I have a Snap-On Solus Pro and the codes I'm getting are no communication codes. I've been all over this vehicle and do not seem to have one corroded connection anywhere outside or inside the body. We got this for my wife since we need a bigger vehicle for having our first grandchild and this thing has been nothing but problems with this issue and I got to keep hearing it. I have a shop that said they can check it out for a hundred fifty bucks and let me know what's going on but I'm trying to resolve it myself if I can. Pretty bad being a mechanic and I can't figure out my own vehicle out. Vehicle seems to have been a pavement pounder or garage kept. Everything works perfect after I restart and the codes disappear. I'm starting to think it's either a module or software issue Which doesn't help me out because I can't program one myself if it is. with the exception of these codes everything runs and drives perfect on it. But I can't have a vehicle that you got to wait to warm up 5 or 10 minutes before you can drive it. If anybody can help me with this it would be appreciated thanks Mike

Update: So I hooked my scanner back up and looked at a few things. In all the modules that supported this code, all of them had the "loss of communication with TCM" I cleared all codes out again. What I also noticed was that all the modules had 14 volts going to them EXCEPT the TCM held at 13.6. Dont know if thats an issue or not. But would need a diagram of the TCMs power source. There also was a small grey wire on the blue connector behind the battery that was more than half chopped through. I repaired that also. Along with this, my manual shift doesn't work. The PRND Indicator follows on dash except the icon doesn't come up for sport mode, but the center console it lights up when shifted into it. But it still doesn't work. Only got that function to work a few times over the months before it threw up the codes and I had to pull over and restart it, and not touch that option again. Any ideas anyone.

 

... but I'm not sure what else to advise. Maybe try putting it on a trickle charger and see how it responds. Did you check the batt voltage after it had been sitting a while or right after running it? 14.75v sounds kinda high, too.

The Command Shift does not display an M. You pull the lever outboard and it goes into Sport Mode. Upon subsequent up/downshifts it goes into Command Shift and displays whatever gear has been selected.

 

My fault on the sport mode. Either way it doesn't show on the dash. But responds on the console when i pull it to the left. I did check the battery after sitting for a few days and voltage seems good and passes load test with my battery tester. And ill recheck the alternator voltage again. I could be mis stating that voltage. So what do you mean voltage issue? With the alternator voltage, or the voltage to the TCM? Now a few weeks ago my wife had some stuff plugged into the power outlets and the battery light came on. I had her continue to drive it at that voltage and there was no difference with the issue . At 1 point it tested at 13.6 volts. After she took this stuff out a week or two ago, the battery light has NOT come on and the alternator voltage is back up again.

 

Sport icon? All I see is "SPORT" on the dash in the odometer window, nothing else.

Second on the voltage. That does seem high but the issues you have common with low voltage. You may want to check you main battery ground to body. Did you pull the TCM module? The modules behind the battery are very prone to corrosion if the battery is not vented properly. You may need to dig deeper in that area too.

 

Ill get an exact voltage from the alternator when I get back out there. Like I said I MIS-stated that. I tested that almost a month ago. I have pulled the modules out from behind the battery and there is ZERO corrosion. I havent found corrosion in ANY connector ANYWHERE on this vehicle. I will update the voltage tomorrow when I get home from work. The only other thing that confuses me is why on a hot or warm day this thing is perfectly fine. What would outside temperature have to do with it.

 

Maybe your battery is showing good voltage but is still weak in the current department....the hot/cold ambient temp deal could them be explained.

​​​​​​Thing is, everything you're describing is consistent with a dying battery.

 

Thanks. Between losing overtime for 4 months from this virus ****, it slowed things down on my end. Overtime is back but still not trying to just throw parts at this. The battery I think is 2 maybe 3 yrs old. Ill look tommorow at the date code again and update. I hope its just a simple battery. This is really pissing me off at this point.

 

Also when you can, power everyone up. Heated seats (not that they usually work in these trucks), front and rear defrost, HVAC on full fan, etc. So how the system can handle stress when running. You can even try the same test without it running. Motor voltages all the time. And again, check those grounds. Ground corrosion is nothing new with these, or any old vehicle really.

As for temperatures, sometimes you can get cold joints in the alternator. Not sure where, but I have seen alternators perform differently hot versus cold. Basically thermal expansion laws, essentially.

 

Thats odd. I have responded twice and my post disappeared. I said thanks. I will up date tomorrow with the date code and the voltage of the alternator. Im trying not to just throw parts at this being I recently got my overtime back after 4 months of it being cut due to this virus. It cut into my funds temporarily and trying not to burn money on something it may not be. I will update y'all with more info. Thanks for the help. Mike

 

the symbols that replaced the curse word and subsequent edit caused your post to auto moderate again. I have approved it again