Well. That didnt fix it. I now have hdc fault, trans limited gear range,park brake fault, and special functions fault. And I know if we let it warm up then restart it, it will go away again. Im out of ideas an options. Now my wife is mad i put a battery in it for nothing. Im just gonna have to take it to the shop I spoke to and see if they can see whats wrong. We cant keep dealing with this.

 

Mike, a few more questions. You said these come up before start, then you reboot and such. What happens if you just drive around with these faults showing? Do they go away on their own? Do they actually affect performance? Are your gears limited? Does HDC work? If they just show up for a minute upon startup and then go away, I would still suspect something electrical.

What about the air suspension? Any affect on that? The reason I ask, is that if it's not electrical then there are a slew of faults (that come on together) that are related to the brake switch and even a bad brake light. The only outlier is the "Transmission Limited Gear Range." That one isn't usually a symptom of the brake switch or lights.

 

I have already replaced the brake light switch and made sure I have the correct bulbs in there. It never made a difference either way before or after that. And no the codes do not go away if I don't reboot it, the vehicle won't shift into the next gear and air suspension and all that doesn't work the only time this thing works normal is after we reboot it and everything's off the dash – and then we can drive it as normal. And these come on as soon as you turn the key on before you even start the engine. But then you get a hot day 80 something degrees and higher and most likely you could just turn the key on and there's zero problems and you can just go as normal. It seems like the colder it gets the worse it gets

 

Ok. So now today 10/15 my wife texted me around 1pm to update me when she started this. So NO codes or anything. So I get home around 5:30 as usual and we had to go somewhere. So 3/4 through our trip aroun town the dang battery light came on again. Granted it was dark out. So obviously the lights were on. The last time this light came on, I let her drive it for about 2 weeks and eventually it went off, until now. And it can come on an hour into a drive or 5 minutes. No set pattern. As I said previously, the voltage kept jumping around even as low as 13.28 volts then back up. I think Im gonna price an alternator also.

 

Update. Ok so I just replaced the alternator. Charges STEADY at 13.89 to 13.90 volts. NO more jumping around like it was doing. Its finally steady. As I turn stuff on I do notice the voltage increases as it should then stabilizes. I was going down to around 13.28 with the old alternator. So, so far so good with my voltage issue. Ill see what happens after next startup after sitting all night. 😄

 

Ok battery issue seems gone. But the 1st start issue is still there. Every time i scan this its all No communication with TCM in all the modules. And the TCM says no communication with the other modules. Im starting to think the TCM is half bad. Anybody replace one if these. Do they need to be flashed or can a used one be put in? And anyone know what cost to replace and program. I have a private shop that should be able to program it if need be. ALSO Ive seen online that someone else complaining about this issue just needed a software update, wonder what the chances are it just needs an update. Anyone?

 

Guess nobody has any more ideas on this. Most likely taking it to the local shop next week to better diag this. The colder temps are making it harder now for it to clear out after warming it up for 10 minutes or so. Well. After I get it diagnosed and hopefully fixed, ill update this thread.

 

Actually if you look on the UK sites its quite common for the TCM to go bad and a replacement fiixes the issue.

 

I appreciate it. Ill have to find out how much its gonna cost me. Installing it isnt a problem. Apparently it has to be programmed from what I think im finding. And I cant do that with my solus. The new code that came up yesterday in the TCM is "internal software incompatibility issue" . Something with that. 😞


Update: I just called a Land Rover dealer and they are telling me the TCM is part of the valve body of the transmission. And it's almost $3,600. I'm not doing that. They're telling me the one behind the battery is specifically for the transfer case. Can anybody else confirm any of this? Cuz if that's the case I'm just going to buy another vehicle and trade this one in or so while it's warmed up and not acting up. I don't have $3,500 plus labor to do this

 

So is one the TCM and the other the TCCM? I'd get a second opinion for sure; sometimes the dealerships don't know squat. If you are going to warm it up and sell/trade it so as to hide the issue, I hope it goes to a dealer (so they can afford to absorb the hit and fix it) and not to some poor sap on Craigslist or something.