I read in one of the blogs that the 'transmission fault' error may come on if the brake switch is faulty or the brake lights do not work. Then I thought "I don't think that makes sense" but thought to look, what the heck as the error kept coming on as soon as I applied the brakes but I thought it was the ABS. Lo and behold, my brake lights are not working! When fiddling with the brake switch behind the brake pedal, the lights worked, the fault error disappeared.

Later the fault error came back. I stopped, checked and fiddled with the brake switch again and the fault error disappeared. I went to the dealer to get a new switch but they were closed (on a Saturday). The fault error was back when I applied the brakes. I decided to lightly lubricate the brake switch (damper style switch) with 'chap stick'.

NO MORE ERROR!!!!!!!

 

thorgal, I am new to the forum. I have the same problem you discribed and may I ask where you took your LR to for the dianostic, and what they charged you.

donovanr

 

The brake light switch and replacement for all brake light bulbs will cost far less than a diagnostic. Failure of battery, brake light switch and bulbs is inevitable. My opinion is to certainly consider changing them as a preventative. The battery can be tested, I have never gotten more than two years out of a battery. I live in an extremely hot climate.

 

Thanks unseenone.

I am referring to the mail about the stuck clutch actuator. It was diagnosed by a mech two weeks ago and only wondered if it is necessary to get a second opinion. Different mech seem to have different answers to LR3 problems. It has not happened again since. He phoned this morning and the extended warranty did not help as they are not willing to pay for a new motor - R9000 ex labour(?).

Are everyone suggesting I change the battery and brake switch and that this could be the problem to the stuck clutch actuator? What does it do, this motor?

Donovan

 

Ok here you go...
I have a 2005 LR3 Se 4.4 all the same problems

1. Air suspension Fault
2. Coolant Temp sensor
3. Mass air flow sensor
4. Bank 1 too rich
5. Bank 2 too rich
6. Transmission Fault
7. HDC Limited gears

Here is what corrected it...

Replaced the coolant temp sensor $20
Cleaned the mass air flow sensor $8
New air Filter $27
Replaced the abs module used $172
Replaced the cam sensor $35 This was the major problem for almost everything
Reset all the code (cleared)
Now 100% even the air suspension light is gone YA!
The only thing that has been going on over the last three months prior to the HDC fault was REDUCED ENGINE PERFORMANCE
So after a little digging I will change the Diode Coil $12 located under the engine cover left rear side.
If it is going bad you will experience a note on the dash REDUCED ENGINE PERFORMANCE not all the time and sooner or later it will cut the engine off at a stop or idle looping. That Diode Coil is going bad change it!
Also everything I experienced looks like most of all Land Rovers have the same problem Thank You LAND ROVER !
Oh by the way I will need to rebuild the front and rear differential's $550 each Thank You Land Rover !

 

I have the combo in the dash with amber brake and suspension lights and hDC and trans fault messages. However, we haven't been able to find the problem source.

So far we have replace all rear light bulbs, steering angle sensor, brake pedal switch, abs sensors and connectors, abs module. Also, follow and checked wiring for the brake pedal switch.

Any ideas or suggestions?

 

Did you get it scanned?

 

I would gather that it is not the wheel alignment then as you have replaced the steering wheel angle sensor. I assume that when driving straight ahead, that your steering wheel is "level". As such it is not the yaw sensor fighting the direction maker then so that problem area is out.

If you have the Nav with the 4x4 display page, turn to that page and one wheel at a time, mount a curb.

You should see the curb mounting wheel defect a fair bit on the display and maybe the cross wise wheel a bit. Do that with each wheel.

All this procedure proves is that the wiring off each wheel sensor and or the sensor is probably OK. Also leave the 4x4 page up for a week or so and watch the wheel deflection while you drive.

For the most part, on pavement, very little deflection is seen when all is working well. What you are looking for is intermittent operation of the sensors or the wiring. That will be shown as either an apparent "dead" wheel, (that is no movement), or a sort of rapid fluctuation of a wheel.

The sensors do wear and then can either send out no signal or a ragged signal that the computer does not like. I have about 120,000 miles on my 3 and have replaced all four sensors now as a maintenance thing between 80 and 100 thousand miles.

Corroded wiring is a lot tougher to find but most often, there is just no signal from a corner. The system however can tolerate some degree of wiring problem, (good I think as you still arrive), but that can make trouble shooting harder.

 

Don't you need to do a calibration when the angle sensor is replaced?

 

The steering angle sensor measures the steering wheel angle and the rate of change of the steering wheel angle (known as the steering wheel angle speed). These measurements are output on the high speed CAN bus, together with a quality factor signal, and used by the ABS module for CBC and DSC operation.

The steering angle sensor is fixed to the pivot bracket of the steering column by three screws. A gear wheel in the
steering angle sensor engages with a plastic drive collar fixed onto the lower shaft of the column. Inside the steering angle sensor, the gear wheel meshes with a gear train containing magnets. An eight pin electrical connector provides the interface between the vehicle wiring and integrated circuits in the steering angle sensor.

The steering angle sensor uses the Magneto Resistive (MR) effect, which evaluates the direction of magnetic fields, to measure the angular position of the lower shaft, and thus the steering wheel angle. When the steering wheel turns, the steering column lower shaft rotates the gear wheel in the steering angle sensor, which drives the gear train and rotates the magnets on the gears. The direction of the magnetic fields is constantly monitored by the steering angle sensor and converted into a steering wheel angle and steering wheel angle speed.

The steering angle sensor performs a plausibility check of the steering wheel angle each time the following conditions coexist:
􀁺 The vehicle is traveling in a straight line.
􀁺 The vehicle speed is between 20 and 25 km/h (12.5 and 15.6 mph).
􀁺 The transfer box is in high range.
􀁺 The brake pedal is not pressed.
􀁺 There is no ABS, DSC or ETC activity.

The steering angle sensor uses inputs of wheel speed, yaw rate and lateral acceleration to determine when the vehicle is traveling in a straight line. When all of the conditions co-exist, the steering angle sensor checks the steering angle, which should be 0 ± 15°. If the steering angle is outside the limits on two successive checks, the steering angle sensor changes the quality factor signal to 'outside specification' for the remainder of the ignition cycle and stores a fault code. At the beginning of each ignition cycle the quality factor signal is reset to 'within specified accuracy'.

The status of the steering angle sensor can be determined using T4.

If the steering angle sensor is replaced, the new sensor must be calibrated using T4. The steering angle sensor must also be re-calibrated any time it is disturbed from the steering column, or if the upper and lower steering columns are separated.